Front balljoints

Doug914 · 05-03-2001, 10:55 AM

I'm about to put new torsion bars and bushings in, so recent posts on the subject have been really helpful. My question is: How difficult is it to remove the strut from the control arm's balljoint? Looking at the Hayne's manual, it looks as though the balljoint's post fits up inside the strut, and is secured with a bolt that fits in a notch in that post. Once the bolt is removed, does it take a lot of hammering to separate the two? TIA. Maybe you guys can save me from gashed knuckles!

efeinsmith · 05-03-2001, 11:09 AM

I just took a front end out and installed 911 parts with new ball joints and in my case, it came apart pretty easily (at least at the ball joint/strut end). You do need to completely remove the retaining bolt since it sits in a notch in the ball joint. Do note that there were two different ball joints used (70-72 and 73-76). The later ones have a bolt that has some machined surfaces and must be put in with proper orientation.

Now removing the ball joint from the a-arm is a whole different story and a real pain.

Doug914 · 05-03-2001, 12:16 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll start tonight, first with the easy job (rear springs), then the hard one (torsion bars & bushings).

Conrad W Peden · Conrad W Peden's Garage

I just took my front end apart too.

One ball joint 'post' just fell out the other was a bugger. If you take the shock out of strut the hole that the ball joint 'post goes into goes all the way through.

So.. If you can't get the ball joint 'post' out easily, like knocking the a-arm with a mallet, try getting a rod that is the a smaller diameter that the 'post' and putting it through the strut from the top, and hammering from there.

Does this make sense?

If it doesn't just say so and I'll try to explain it better.

PS. take it easy on the taper bolts holding the ball joints in too. and if you want to get the ball joints out of the a-arm good luck. I went to the dealership and assumed they had the right tool....turned to be an air chisel. the "mechanic" did a number on the nuts and charged me $15 labour.

Moral of the story is.. If you get someone else to do it make sure they actually have the wrench(as seen in Haynes)or you will feel like the tool!

------------------
CWP/VIR
72 914 L20E in rusto.
73 914 L20E 2.0L in resto.
http://members.rennlist.com/a914lover

Doug914 · 05-03-2001, 03:02 PM

Makes perfect sense. I'll keep my fingers crossed that they just fall out by gravity once I remove the bolt (ha, ha!).

Conrad W Peden · Conrad W Peden's Garage

Forgot to mention mine is a 73 if it matters

efeinsmith · 05-04-2001, 04:23 AM

Actually, a brass drift and good hammer will work to remove the ball joint nut from the a-arm end. Just remember to remove the cotter pin and locking plate first :-)

Doug914 · 05-04-2001, 08:42 AM

Thanks for all your advice. This is turning out to be a big, hairy monster of a job!

Those bolts securing the balljoint posts were quite frozen, and I screwed up the threads whacking them with a hammer, but they finally popped loose.

When time came to actually separate the strut from the post, I used a balljoint pickle fork and a hammer. I didn't "straddle" the balljoint with the fork, but used it inboard of the joint, between the control arm and cast lower section of the strut. Still tooks lots of banging, as it was locked up pretty good.

And then there's the saga of removing the bushings. I used the "drill a bunch of holes in them" method, after which I squirted WD-40 in the holes, then rotated the bushing's outer housing with a giant pair of Channel-locks until what was left of the bushing finally gave up. It's a good thing that the new polygraphite bushings slip right on.

Oh well, more abuse tonight as I tackle the left side!

efeinsmith · 05-04-2001, 09:11 AM

If you want "real" fun, try getting the rear suspension bushings out! When reassembling the front, make sure you use the correct bushing at the correct end, because the front and rear bushing in each a-arm is different (it should say on the bushing itself).

Eric

Doug914 · 05-04-2001, 10:25 AM

You're right about the rears....did them about a year ago....FPITA!!!!! Everything was coated with an inch-thick layer of slimy crud from the leaking engine. Best way is to press those big pivot pins out with a hydraulic press. And thanks for the heads-up about the different-size bushings. They're Weltmeisters and they're marked front and rear, but their sizes are only slightly different.

JP Noonan · 05-05-2001, 09:03 AM

I used PB Blaster on the pins holding the ball joints on. If you look into the strut housing with the shock out you can see a hole at the bottom and the top of the ball joint. Squirt some liquid wrench or PB (WD-40 is worthless imho) into the strut housing and use a relly long drift (I used a 14" #2 phillips screw driver) to knock the ball joint loose. As for the wedgr pin, screw the nut back onto the threads before wacking it to protect the threads, and even better use a drift. I have a "suspension tool kit" from Eastwood ($100 but WELL worth every cent) that has a tie rod end tool that easisy poped off the tie-rods and wedge pins, and it had a puller that extracted the A-arms bushings with no fuss.