Shifter/Trans problem
 

Hi, my first post. I just purchased a 1974 914 2.0L in need of some work. Mostly bodywork with some exterior rust and some minor rust internally, mainly the floor boards. The 2.0L four runs great even though there is a mess of frayed vacuum hoses going every and nowhere.

I took it for its maiden voyage to work yesterday and ran into a problem. While driving home I noticed that the car would not stay in 2nd gear. I thought to myself that the 901 lost that gear. But when I got to stop light something weird happened. I put the car into what I thought 1st gear only to come to find out that it was 3rd. I limped home this way going through numerous lights.

When I got home I tried some more experimentation. Every gear on the top of tree (R, 2nd and 4th) will pop out of gear when I release the clutch. All the down and to the left is indeed putting the car in 3rd, and did not check any of the other gears too much since I was worried about the clutch.

Now to the question would this more likely be the demise of my 901, or is it a linkage problem? At first I thought it was the tranny, but after reading this thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914-914-6-technical-forum/302854-no-longer-able-shift.html I was wondering if this or something similiar might be the problem.

Try adjusting the linkage. The procedure is described in our "shift linkage improvements" article--it doesn't take too long, and you don't need to buy any parts. Even if it doesn't work, you're only out an hour or two and no money.

The procedure is also described in your Haynes manua. If you don't have one of these, get one! At <$20, it's one of the biggest bargains you'll find for your 914. It has about 85% of the text and images from the factory manuals. It's not exactly the best automotive manual in the world, but it's close to being as good as we get for the 914.

Having trouble in all of the forward-lever-movement gears does sound like a linkage problem. Even if you only had trouble in one gear, I'd still suggest inspecting and adjusting the linkage. Like I said, it's easy and it's free...

--DD

Thanks Dave, the more I think about the more I think it has got to be the linkage. I will update as soon as I get a chance to look at it this week.

Here is my much anticipated follow-up, well at least for myself it is. Any technical advice would be much appreciated.

I took apart the back half of the shifter linkage this morning. I could not figure how to get the center counsel off and ran out of time (go Panthers) to take apart the shift lever junction. Here are my findings.

1) The busing that goes from the shift rod into the transmission (part #25 in the diagram of the side shifter for the improved shifting tech article) was extremely worn. I would say that half to a third of it was worn away. The bottom part was still intact. The ball end of the transmission was floating in the joint. I am not sure if this is a "locking" bushing (where the two parts snap into place) or if it is supposed to float in there. Possible culprit 1.

2) Possible culprit 2. The shift rod coupler (not numbered in the diagram, where the front linkage is mated to rear linkage at the firewall) was all over the place. The back part that looks like a T, was floating all over the place within the female part of the coupler. There also was a lot of debris that I took out from the area. I am not sure if there are supposed to be any bushing in there (there are none listed in the diagram) but in looking at the Performance Products catalog there are some bushings that appear are for that part. Possibly all the debris I took out was the original busings. As of the now there is absolutely nothing between the male and female ends.

3) Both tapered screws were fine.

4) Again I did not get a chance to get to the front end of the linkage, but I seems like I would be able to feel if there is a grave issue between the shift lever itself and the shift linkage, which I do not feel.

Any thoughts?

Shifting will be miserably vague if this "cup bushing" is broken or badly worn.

The bushing is the socket part of a ball-and-socket joint; the ball on the end of the gear selector rod (whatever you call the part that goes into the transmission) fits into that socket. Generally with some difficulty. Don't put too much grease inside the socket or there won't be room for the ball!)


Shift coupler bushings. Check here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_Tshift_pg2.htm#item8

The couplers can crack easily when you are pressing the pin out of or into them (the pin holds the coupler together and goes through the bushings). So it's important to support the coupler securely when you do this part of the job.

Shift coupler bushings are also very necessary.

The connection between the lever and the front shift rod should be solid--but it's a good idea to test that at least. If you want to get access the quick and dirty way, you can do the following:

Unscrew the knob from the heater lever. Pull the shift knob off the gear shift lever. Slide the horizontal part of the console (that those two levers come up through) up and off them and lay it to the side. It will be trailing two wires...

Then take a knife and cut the carpet just aft of where the gear shift lever comes up through it. Remember, that piece you just removed will cover up any holes you make...

This hole can give you enough room to see the connection between the lever and the front shift rod.

It might be prudent to replace the firewall bushing as well.

--DD

Thanks so much Dave!

I feel pretty confident that once I get these bushing in my transmisson woes will be behind me (fingers extremely crossed). I will post another follow up when I get the bushings in.

Pray for Mojo.

while it's apart do every bushing. firewall, the one on the console that holds the rear rod where it meets the trans coupler, possibly the front to rear bar bushings. most folks overlook the 2 that cradle the ball on the shift lever. the bottom of the shifterlever base is usually full of grease and muck, and it can bind the springs. clean it! best advice(in my book) is bring the whole setup back to "as new". my guess is the friendly sales staff at pp can supply you with everything you need.

k