Engine Drop
 

I am going to be dropping my stock 1.8L, very soon, to do light rebuild. What are the things I shoud measure, check, or do to the engine before I take it out. The engine runs, but rough now.

I plan (hope) to only do; a big bore kit, a XR-3000 ignition with PS-coil, new hoses, new injectors, plugs, wires,...etc. I am hoping to retain the stock FI.

Any help or suggestions would help!
Thanks
Kerry

Kerry,

My first suggestion is to review the technical article provided by Pelican Parts
<http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm>

It will get you through just about every step of the process, but watch out for the engine bar mounting nuts hidden up underneath the frame bracket - you'll be turning the bolt forever unless you're wise to them.

The only thing I would liked to have checked before I started pulling my motor was the compression. It would have given me a better heads-up as what to expect when I got down to the Pistons/cyls. But by the time I got a couple of the exhaust manifold studs loose in my hands, there was no turning back.

I did only the top-end as well, but stayed stock accept for the Euro pistons. Be sure to consider all those other little items, like front & rear case oil seals, oil breather seals, check your oil gallery plugs, etc. The PO failed to watch these and the extra cleanup required really slows down the rebuild.

Good luck,

Gerard

Get your engine cleaned up before you pull it out (Most engine cleaners have warnings about using their product on aluminum, so I just got mine steamed. Anyone got suggestions on a safe engine cleaner!). It will save you a lot of time cleaning up and allow you to do focus the rest of your efforts on the actual rebuild.

Tech article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_engine_drop/914_engine_drop.htm

-Wayne

For engine cleaners - my vote is for EasyOff oven cleaner. This stuff works great on everything nasty. The PO kept putting oil into the car, and wondering where it all went - Duh! It went all over the engine, tranny, the whole rear end of the car, thanks to a blown front oil seal (which by the way is right behind the cooling fan).

I spent a lot of time cleaning every part of the case, tranny, rear underside of the car, and EasyOff made the job a lot easier. If you can set your parts out in the sun for 30-40 minutes before spraying - it does work better when the metal is warm vs cold. But that's no problem for us in Phoenix.

I also use Easy off to clean the nasty road and brake dust accumulation off the inside of the wheels. You may have to protect any outside polished portions, but even if you don't a quick wipe with Mothers returns the luster.

Just my 2 cents.

Gerard

I've used Simple Green with great success and its very gentle on painted and aluminum and plastic and rubber and ....

Its just a concentrated soap.

I use a spray called solv-all. I get it from work, (phone company). Telephone cable is packed with nasty grease and jelly. The solv-all melts the stuff right away. It is made with orange oil and comes in an aerosol
spray. It may be similar to the orange-glo
stuff on t.v., but I'd bet the solv-all is more potent. It is also safe on all surfaces
and is non-toxic.