Static timing instructions
 

I want to double check the timing of my 1.8. The Haynes manual I purchased covers the timing on the 1.7 and the 2.0 but not my engine. What's up with that? Is it done the same as one of the other engines? Does anyone know a quick way to time an engine that isn't running?

Haynes should cover the 1.8's timing spec as well. I believe it's 7.5 degrees BTDC at idle, with the vacuum hoses disconnected and plugged. There should be a mark on the rear part of the fan at 7.5 BTDC.

You can set the timing statically to TDC. That will be more than close enough to let the car start--then you can check it dynamically as per spec.

Full advance would be about 30 deg BTDC at 3500 RPM (vacc hoses disconnected and plugged), if I recall correctly--but the spec for the 1.8 is at idle.

--DD

Hey DAve,

I tried to time my 914 1.7l D-jet last week, saw no obvious timing marks for 27d, nor for TDC. at about 27d (if all was running right), I think I saw a triangular cut in the fan that semi-matches the notch in the fan housing: is this correct??

Mark

Check the following picture, from the bottom of our 914 Ignition Timing tech article:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...20impeller.JPG

You'll see the notch on the rear part of the fan, where the red paint is? That's the stock 27 BTDC timing mark. The mark over to the right is the stock (not always there) TDC mark, a "0". I painted it white, plus added paint marks to the front part of the fan.

The notch and the 0 should be partly revealed by the notch in the rear part of the fan shroud--you will have to just about completely crawl inside the engine bay to get your head to an angle where you can see it clearly...

--DD

Use a mirror, then you don't need to be a gymnast

Ok, my timing was nowhere near that I don't feel. I know the wider post was seen when trying to find TDC, but never saw a notch nor any white paint. Nuts

Oh, ok, this fan is oriented the way I would view it from viewing it normally through the access hole: so, I was looking at the FRONT of the fan for the notch/white paint, not the rear. Got it. correct me if I'm wrong please. :)

Mark

You got it, Mark! Top of the picture is toward the front of the car.

--DD

Excellent, so I need to be looking BACK towards the trunk (with a mirror through the access hole) to see the notch & paint, not towards the firewall. I couldn't tell from the pictures in my Haynes manual.

Thanks Dave, got my parts yesterday too, the restoration continues.

I believe there's also a timing mark on the flywheel, visible from under the car where the tranny bolts up

All of this is much easer with the engine lid removed.

Hm, ok, I set my engine to TDC last night, with with the distributor out, viewed at the key-way inside the hole. With the distributor inserted, it puts the rotor 180d away from the little notch in the distributor that from what I read, points to TDC.

Comments? The rotor only goes in one-way. OH, i need to push the car until the TDC mark on the fan lines up again, & should see TDC on the distributor too....duh! That's what happens when you're sweating too much. :)

One more thing: is there any advantage with a little more timing increase (say, set timing at 3500 w/o vacuums at about 1/4" past the 27d mark? anyone tried this? With our conservative compression & decent fuel, I wouldn't think this is an issue. Thoughts?

Make sure you're at TDC#1, that the valves for #1 are slack.

The rotor can actually be inserted a bunch of different ways. Check the picture in your Haynes manual to see what the "book" position is. The slot is offset to one side.

Overly advancing the timing might get you a little bit, but it might not. Check it and see. You might even need to retard the timing to get everything happy. It depends on a whole ton of factors, many of which you have changed by putting the (yech!) single-carb setup on.

--DD

odd, my rebuilt distributor from Autozone ($69 + core) came with new trigger points, condensor, contact points, & a good vacuum canister, but the new units doesn't appear to reach as far down into the engine as the old one did as the two off-center teeth barely grab the receiver: if you twist the rotor hard enough the teeth will slip.

Thoughts? What should my distributor be? I can always compare part numbers.

Mark (1.7l D-jet)

Push it down further into the hole. They like to "hang up" somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4" from where they should fully seat. Twist the distributor body as you're pushing it down into the hole, you should feel it seat.

--DD

well, I have it bolted in-place, & you can still see that it's just barely seated. :( I'm worried that with a quick rev, I might force the teeth from grabbing.

Loosen the clamp nut and wiggle it down all the way into the hole.

--DD

Autozone rebuild distributor update
 

Ok, I was correct, the rebuilt distributor from Autozone wouldn't go down all the way as the newer condensor prohibited it from reaching far enough away. I ended up moving it to other side of the distributor, using the same screw that secures one side of the vacuum canister to also secure the condensor: now it drops all the way in & I can continue.

Wee. :)