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Porsche Crest Fuel Injection change to carb

I want to change fuel injection on my 1975 1.8 to a carb. I am looking at PROGRESSIVE WEBER, DELUXE KIT, TYPE 4....any readers have any issues or comments on this system? I want to tackle the project my self, I know how to use a screw driver

And all the injection guys who hate carbs, let me know why I should keep the injection.....the carb guys get a chance to rebut!!
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:17 AM
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Because the L-Jet EFI system developed for your 1.8L WORKS, whereas the progressive carb setup on a 1.7, 1.8, or 2.0 DOESN'T. Guaranteed to lower your vehicle's value, warm-up capability, and overall performance in short order. It's a lazy-man's alternative to figuring out, maintaining, and accepting the limitations of the L-Jet or D-Jet systems in the 914. Unless you're planning to bore the engine up way past 2L's, stick with the EFI.

But, you want carbs ... you just GOTTA have carbs? Than properly install & tune a pair of Weber 40 IDF's, otherwise if the EFI is working properly, leave it alone.

You'll thank us later.
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:54 AM
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EFI is almost always better...in general. The stock stuff is getting expensive to maintain. Modern EFI systems would be the best, but they are pricey as all get out.

Carbs are cheap and understandable. They sound and look cool. You can pick up a pair of used 40 IDF's for around 5-600 bucks.
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rouser View Post
Because the L-Jet EFI system developed for your 1.8L WORKS, whereas the progressive carb setup on a 1.7, 1.8, or 2.0 DOESN'T. Guaranteed to lower your vehicle's value, warm-up capability, and overall performance in short order. It's a lazy-man's alternative to figuring out, maintaining, and accepting the limitations of the L-Jet or D-Jet systems in the 914. Unless you're planning to bore the engine up way past 2L's, stick with the EFI.

But, you want carbs ... you just GOTTA have carbs? Than properly install & tune a pair of Weber 40 IDF's, otherwise if the EFI is working properly, leave it alone.

You'll thank us later.
I AGREE ...

the single progressive is about the worst choice out of all the available carbs.
they aren't called "boat anchors" for nothing. give it the float test ...

FI, if in good working condition, is superior to any carb system on a 914 motor with stock internals.
once you get into "hot cam" territory, a nice set of 40/44 IDF dual carbs will work great.

the stock FI systems (D-Jet and L-Jet) are in fact very simple. even simpler if you know how to use a multi-meter ...
Andy
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Old 08-05-2007, 03:50 PM
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If you want to switch, email me. I'm eventually going to go to a larger displacement so I need a larger carb.
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Old 08-05-2007, 03:54 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the replies!!
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Old 08-05-2007, 04:24 PM
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progressives are garbage. 40 IDF's are the only way to go.
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Old 08-07-2007, 07:46 AM
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Orderd duel Weber IDF 40. We'll see how it goes! If it runs like crap, back goes the FI. Hell, I got time!
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:33 PM
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To make full advantage of those carbs, you really should change the cam as well.
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Old 08-07-2007, 03:16 PM
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Orderd duel Weber IDF 40. We'll see how it goes! If it runs like crap, back goes the FI. Hell, I got time!
What exactly are the symptoms that make you want to toss the FI? Often times fixing the existing system is free and might only take minutes.

Oh well, I guess it doesn't matter now. I just hate to see you spend a bunch of money on carbs before taking a real shot at fixing the FI system.

On a stock motor, the FI should behave a lot better across all running conditions, and get better mileage, and possibly better performance.
Old 08-07-2007, 03:22 PM
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I think for the infrequent driving that people do in their 914's today, carbs are a good deal cheaper to operate. Again, FI is better all around, but carbs allow for hotter cams, larger displacements, and great throttle response.
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:06 PM
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carbs are a good deal cheaper to operate
How so?

Like you said, carbs allow big motor/hot cam. Agreed.

But this thread hasn't mentioned that. I don't see how going to carbs is beneficial for LAS. They are going to cost $$$. When does it get cheaper?

I'm not dissing carbs. But on stock motor? Why? Seriously - tell me a benefit.

And on a hot motor, I would rather have SDS. Or Megasquirt if you want to go cheap. Just an opinion I suppose, but grounded pretty well.

Geeezzz.... I'm sounding like Krusty. Good stuff though.... Cheers.

.

Last edited by RandyLok; 08-08-2007 at 05:21 PM..
Old 08-08-2007, 05:03 PM
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Like I said above. FI is the way to go. I would rather have SDS with some Jenvey's ITB's than carbs any day. However, the EFI setup is $3500+ and new carbs are $1000. BRAND NEW!

As for the stock stuff, if it isn't broke don't fix it. If it is broke and you can't fix it due to money or skill, then maybe carbs are the way to go. My opinion, possibly incorrect, is that maintaining carbs might be cheaper than maintaining X-jet fuel injection.
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Old 08-08-2007, 06:12 PM
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It's cool Paul. I think we are on the same page. I'm not arguing with you.

I'm just contending it would cost less than carbs to fix the problem LAS is having. If the MPS and some other stuff was bad, then it would be more cost effective to go Megasquirt than replace those parts.... Still WAY less than $1000 and FAR superior to carbs.
Old 08-08-2007, 07:10 PM
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To fix it now it might be cheaper, but the systems are so old that they will keep needing work.

My 911 with CIS was a ticking time bomb concerning the injection system. Those parts were getting to be astronomically priced. I'm not as familiar with 914 injection, but it has to be getting spendy these days.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:14 PM
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re-installing FI

I just purchased a '74 1.8 with a newly rebuilt engine. It was converted to webers (redline kit, i believe) some years ago but I have all FI parts. Is there a book available with help in testing the parts I have (or can this even be done before being installed - with multi meter, etc.)
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:09 PM
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Many of the parts you have can be tested out of the car. Look through chapter 2 (fuel system) of the Haynes manual. You'll find checks for most of the 1.8's L-jet parts in there, though you do have to hunt a bit for many of them.

Of course, that won't tell you if your engine has a cam that is not FI-compatible. (If you have a build sheet for the motor, look to see what kind of cam is specified. Words like "race" or "aggressive" generally mean you FI won't like it.)

--DD
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:58 PM
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