6-conversion, ignition/starting problems. Help needed.
 

My 914 is at a point where i am trying to start the damn 2.2T six-cylinder ive been fitting into the engine bay....

I dont know if i have a fuel or ignition problem. It just plainly refuses to start. Here are some details, if you can help:

1) The fuel pressure, about 3 3/4-4lbs, drops to zero when cranking. Normal? I guess not.. When i am putting my hand on the pump:
on ignition, it vibrates then settle when pressurized
while cranking, it stops vibrating, pressure to zero

I am wondering - suspecting - that the fuel pump is ceasing its operation when passed ignition (key ignition). Its plugged onto location fuse 8 on the fuse board. Is there another location that has power all the time? The fuel pressure regulator is fitted just between the new fuel filter and the carbs, as a t-fitting. It has 2 outputs.

2) Fuel is pissing between the headers and the muffler, result of trying to start. Mechanic says carbs have been cleansed, and that the needle valves, floats and passages between the throats work fine.

3) Seems like i have no fire on cyl#3 and poor contact on cyl#6. Distributor, cap, rotors, coil and cd box will be replaced with used units i know are working.

Any clue? I know its pretty vague but then...

www.farleydw.com/914.html

Have you checked the points, set the dwell angle, and baselined the timing?

Justin

Sounds like a bad day Sabin.

Ignition:
Ditto the above and make sure the valve clearances are OK, which should get it to run, even if badly. Then if there's still weak/no spark on some cylinders start working your way back to the distributor swapping plugs and wires. Also, check them in the dark and look for arcing on the wires. I'd replace the plugs and wires anyway if you haven't already, I've had 'leaky' wires cause me problems on more than one occasion. You should be able to straighten out any ignition woes this way.

Fuel - Haven't looked it up, but I would think that the fuel pump s/b plumbed and wired in as in the stock 914, it's just at a lower pressure, no?

Did you get the front end sorted out?

My project has 'stalled' as the bodywork drags on. I've given up on driving this year and Mike the restorer will be Mike the storer for the winter. This means that I'm now stewing about engine options too.



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-- Dave
Pics of my '73 project here: http://members.tripod.com/mike4g/dds73_b4pics.htm

When I was converting to a 3.2, I had a similar problem. I found out that the wire I chose to provided power to the DME was on when the car was on, but when I turned the switch to engage the starter, the voltage was gone.

I imagine you have the same problem with your fuel pump. I forgot how I solve this problem.

Is your fuel pump in the front or rear of the car and what year is it...

You may be able to use the existing wiring and circuitry to solve the problem w/the pump. Assuming you have a 914-4 relay board, look at the haynes manual to find the ground side of the FP relay that used to go to the ECU. I simply connected wire from the T-12 connector to ground. This way my FP relay operates my FP. One could added a inertia switch to stop the FP in the event of a wreck...

Good luck w/the project.

Hello

How are the electrics set up ?

Runing via a /4 electric board ?

Bosch CD ignition ?

How about the basics in the carbs ? Floatlevel ?

I think you use the EFI Pump this will not work correct.

Grüsse

Ill try to answer the questions above.

The fuel pump is at the front, its a Purolator one. Its plugged on fuse board location #8 or 9.

Its a Marelli distributor (i know i know get a Bosch youd say... i am on it.)

A (very) good friend of mine lended me a set a wires, another Marelli, coil, CD box know to work. Ill replace everything and try again.

I also try to connect or feed the fuel pump constantly with electric current, so my fuel pressure doesnt go zero when cranking, as i said i suspect that.

Will keep you posted.

To Roland's point, you might want to check the carbs yourself, in spite of your mechanic's assurances. (Been there too)
Dave

Ok guys, i checked the needle valves because headers keep flooding in gas.

Neither of the four needle valves were working properly, i guess. When i depress the little ball on the bottom, should i see the needle point coming out at the top???? I guess that it should??? Well it doesnt.

Would that be the reason why the headers are soaked with gas? That causing the engine to be overfed with gas????

Are you sure that you have the appropriate fuel pressure for carbs?

I have a Purolator electric fuel pump, 1 in, 1 out
new fuel lines all the way
new fuel filter
An Automotive brand dual output fuel pressure regulator, adjustable from 0-15 lbs, with a built-in Marschall glycerine gauge
Presently set at 3 3/4 lbs

I am about to replace the needle valves with brand new ones. How do i adjust the float level?

Thanks!

Oops.



[This message has been edited by DDS (edited 08-19-2001).]