Reverse Lock-Out
 

Has anyone done the Weltmeister upgrade on the reverse lock-out springs. Are you really supposed to reinstall all four springs. That thing get pretty stiff!!! As it is, I have galling on the shift lever that I have to repair. This is gonna seriously increase the pressure on that lock-out plate. Any info would be great.
JB

Just use the two stiffer springs that come in the kit. There was someone a while back that tried all four and broke the shift lever! I called the company when I bought ours and they said just the new ones. Good luck.

Those things are a real bear...be careful about your fingers, and wear safety glasses! http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...ool_shades.gif

You would not believe what a projectile a strong little spring like that can become if it slips. I usually get them back in with a combination of a pry-bar, C-clamps, large screwdrivers etc. I don't know of any scientific procedure for the job, you just kinda swear a lot and keep working at it.

Cheers,

------------------
Chris C.
73 914 2.0
70 911E Targa
campbell.chris@gte.net

I did install them and didn't remove the old ones. Try using some Vise-grip to hold them. The first gear was quite stiff at the beginning but got better after a few weeks ( or maybe I am getting used to it )

Take a large screwdriver and grind notches on both sides of the tip so it fits into the hole of the spring snugly. Put the new pins in part way and slide the springs over the pin and then put the new install tool on the end of the spring that is sticking out and push it into place. Slide the pin through and lock it, then remove the old pin and pop the old spring out(with the spring facing away from you!) It takes longer to make the tool than to do the replacement. Good luck.

I got all four in right now and it is seriously stiff. I think I am gonna try just the two new ones tomorrow. By the way, is there a trick to getting the linkage back aligned. Right now I can only get it adjusted for 2/3 or 4/5, can't get the whole shift pattern (2/3/4/5) to work smoothly. I am ready to give up :<

Turtle,

Maybe you're experiencing a problem I had. A few years ago I found that my tansmission was snagging reverse on the 1st to 2nd shift. (Don't you just love that sound?) I had to be very careful and deliberate to avoid it. I had just recently replaced all of the shift bushings, or thought I had. I adjusted the clutch but still no improvement. So, thinking it may be the lockout springs, I installed the Weltmeister spring kit and left the originals in place. Quite stiff, but it didn't solve the problem. I then tried adjusting the shifter and the shift rod at the tranny and found I could not get all gears to engage. I was starting to freak out, thinking the transmission was gone. Then while lying under the car, fooling with the shift rod, I noticed that the U-joint at the firewall was loose. It turns out that the bushings in the joint had literally disintegrated, pieces of brittle black plastic were falling out. I picked out the remaining pieces and started searching through my catalogs. I ordered a pair of busings, there are two required, I think from Tweeks (sorry guys, I didn't know about Pelican at the time). The new ones where clear red urethane plastic. Tricky to install but fit fine. Reinstalled and adjusted the linkage. Great results. All new bushings and the new spring kit. It shifted so much better. And I liked the additional lockout spring resistance. It makes the 1st to 2nd shift much smoother in my opinion. My suggestion is to check all of the bushings, including the shift rod U-joint.

maf914,
Your experience almost mirrored mine. I
updated my 72 tailshifter to a 73 sideshift
xmission. Afterwards, I could not get the shift alignment correct. The folks here offered some great tips which would have things working well for a short time, but then it would be out of alignment again. Upon careful examination, I found that my shift rod universal joint right behind the firewall was also loose. In fact, the set screw had fallen out and was on the floor of my garage!
Apparently you are supposed to use a new set screw when reassembling the universal joint with a small amount of locktite type adhesive. I just used a drop of epoxy (which I can break if I need to) and it has worked great ever since. This seems to be a common area of failure. Now imagine the results of this failing while driving in a tailshifter.
The rear rod would fall forward to the road and I don't even want to think about the resultant damage! IMHO, Anyone with a tailshifter should consider a few safety loose tiewraps around the shift linkage bar after the univeral joint....
-Wayne

Thanks guys! I just ordered a set of those coupler bushings from PP. Should be here Tuesday. As for the alignment, I will let you know after I install the bushings http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif