Primer Question

Va914 · 08-30-2001, 05:13 AM

I am starting some of the body work on my teener and have primer question.

If I work in sections what is a good can primer to use. Will any can primer work with a base/clear coat finish. I will be taking the car to a pro for the finish sanding and base/clear coating.

Thanks for the help.

jabb · 08-30-2001, 05:27 AM

You need to know what the finish paint brand will be. You need to use a primer that is compatiable with your finish coat. Not all
are compatiable and can cause problems when you want to have the car finished. either serach here or the 911 board for additional info on Paint and primers....

Good Luck

------------------

Joe A.
84 911 Targa
75 914/6 3.0

toman · toman's Garage

just thought I'd throw this out; never use cheap spray can primer. It's a huge waste of time and money.

D-one · D-one's Garage

I have been working on my 74 914 for about 6 months. I put GT flairs on it plus it had fire damage. I used about $80 of spray bomb primer cans. when I went to see about paint the guy said I would have to sand off all the primer and redo every thing. Well today I sprayed my last coat of primer useing a compressor & gun and I can say this is the way to go the car looks great because you can fill all the pits and block sand the body nice and smooth. Go buy a gun & compressor or rent them. It's worth the work!

Brant · 08-30-2001, 12:00 PM

You don't want to use a spray can primer. Most bodyshops will insist on taking it all off. Plus your desire is to have it on the car as a rust inhibitor and spray can primer doesn't even do this very well....

I have heard that the best primers for a piece by piece type project are epoxy ones. Even professional primer offers very little water protection and are generally only used on a project that is not being driven or exposed to any road elements.

Think of all the money your saving and use it to by a cheapo gun and compressor. Talk to your body guy and have him pick out an epoxy primer.... then shoot this panel by panel as you go.

Preparation and metal work are the key to a good paint job. Go to: Autobodystore.com to actually talk to the experts.
brant

Va914 · 08-30-2001, 01:21 PM

Now the kicker. I have been restoring my 914 outside. I don't have a garage!!! I wish I did. I think I would paint the whole car myself if I had a garage..

I guess I may need to have a body shop help me out with the primer. I am going to be putting on flares and was hoping to prime as I go, save'n some $$$.

Thanks for the help. Not sure what to do now. I can't paint outside in the weather or can I?

[This message has been edited by Va914 (edited 08-30-2001).]

Brant · 08-30-2001, 03:12 PM

Kerry,

Its ok. I shot a few panels in black outside just the weekend before last and they were black. Talk to the guys at the local autobody supply store. They'll help you get a proper temp reducer. Of course you'll only want to shoot in good weather, but primer is much more forgiving than base. If you get any minor bug prints you will just be sanding them off anyways. Pick good days and sand on the bad ones.

Oh yeah, some of these paints are highly toxic and it is highly recommended that you use a full ventilation hooded fresh-air system. If your shooting outside you'll have the side benefit of better ventilation just incase you haven't spent the $500 on a system.

Go for it. You can't go wrong if your patient and you can always sand down and start over if its really screwed up.
brant

Va914 · 08-30-2001, 05:06 PM

What about all of the over spray!! Is there alot of over spray when using primer?

For cost reasons, would the electric sprayers be an option for primer ONLY!! I have seen some that say they are for autobody work..

I just bought a welder and need to spry the patch panels. No money left for the air compressor, gun, and supplies.

Thanks for the help guys.
Kerry

KWales · 08-31-2001, 04:57 AM

Kerry,

Most primer paint is porous and water wicks through. I use Dupont 615 (516?) Variprime 2 part primer. It's not epoxy but it darn sure is waterproof. Unfortunately, it is an unattractive baby poop tan.

It's kinda wierd stuff. It's a 2 part catalyzed paint that uses air to set up so you can store the mixed leftovers in a sealed jar for a montth or so and it won't get hard.

As per overspray, I use a HVLP paint gun, that's High Volume Low Pressure. A conventional paint gun puts about 45 percent of the paint on the car and the rest is overspray. My HVLP gun puts about 87 percent of paint on the car. These things come 2 ways- as a gun that attaches to an air compressor or a turbine box/paint gun combo.

I have a Wagner Professional system with a small turbine box (that sounds like a vacuum cleaner, an air hose that looks like a garden hose-complete with garden hose fittings, and a paint gun. When that sucker sprays, it's like walking up to your bathroom mirror and fogging it with your breath. The paint goes on as a mist and making a paint run is difficult.

Ken

Va914 · 08-31-2001, 06:21 AM

The system you have sounds real nice. Was the primer you used very expensive? I'll make some calls on it today.

I think I will need something to hold up in the weather. The car has a cover but that's it. I will get wet and only some sun, alot of trees around.

Has anyone seen or used an electric gun for primer only?

Thanks

Brant · 08-31-2001, 09:12 AM

Kerry,

First I would see if you can find a shop willing to do the final job after you prep. Alot of shops won't because the whole job is dependent upon the prep job.

When you find this shop (and you can), then use the primer they want you to use. I bought a cheap quart of high build 2 weeks ago for about $12. You'll need more than this and if you use a catalized primer it will be double. But again if you want it done right and without rust in 18 months then you need to use the right materials.

I don't know about an electric gun, and I'm guessing not. However its just primer. If it goes on rough it just means more sanding and hours for you. It is still useable as long as you block sand it out. Seriously, get a $35 HVLP gun and a used (pawn shop/garage sale compressor) If you were shooting a final color you could not use a small cheap compressor (small=heat=condensation=bad paint job)
However for primer work and small panels this will be ok.

So spend $75, get or borrow the compressor, buy an in line water filter($5), and the correct product (after you talk to the paint shop). Wash your panels down before you sand and use a cleaner product.

Do the 100 hours of sanding and the final coat will be easy.

You can do it. Its all labor.
brant

Brant · 08-31-2001, 09:13 AM

I said quart..... I meant pint. oops
brant

Va914 · 08-31-2001, 10:23 AM

Thanks Brant. I have more time then money right now, so if I can get a cheep gun and good primer to work that would be great.

If a catalized primer is the way to go and if its about $50, I'll go that route. I haven't started shopping for primer yet so any help in that dept. would be help. It sound like Dupont is the way to go.
I have seen the Wagner HVLP that is self supporting (no external compressor needed).

I have been looking for a cheap used compressor and have yet to find one. If I do that may be a good way to go.

Thanks

KWales · 09-01-2001, 09:41 AM

Kerry,

Lots of folks make HVLP guns other than Wagner. Matter of fact, Wagner makes some pretty cheap (as in not so great) ones for woodworking- spraying stains and varnishes.

You might try Harbor Freight for a low cost gun. Look at the aair pressure and volume required for the gun before you buy the compressor. Some compressors will not be able to pump enough air.

Oh, that's Dupont 615S and 616S (part 1 and part 2) Variprime on the quarts in my garage.

Ken