Anyone seen the result of adjusting HYDRAULIC lifters thinking they were solids?

[guards73/2.0]

I think I'm in this position right now. I've had a real hard time with getting the valves right on this car ( had to shim, etc.) and compression is low, 2 cyls that have compression don't fire ( high comp/low vacuum). So I'm guessing the thing to do is run each cyl up to TDC and adjust to zero lash plus a two-turn preload. This would probably be a good test as well, because if I were to find difficulty in getting the two turns, I probably don't have hydraulics. I was starting to suspect this and a photo I saw of hydraulics that depicted long lifters with a black band around them that looked justlike mine. PP's stock photo has no such band around it. I Was just hoping someone has seen the result of this mistake (that can be easily made by
not being told by a PO that hydraulic lifters
or a cam has been installed) and wanted to compare the symptoms of this problem with mine before I go
ripping my drivetrain out...again. Thanks


[This message has been edited by guards73/2.0 (edited 09-07-2001).]

[This message has been edited by guards73/2.0 (edited 09-07-2001).]

[mejulihn]

I have heard that trying to "adjust" hydraulic lifters is actually a BAD thing, but I honestly do not know what they symptoms or results would be. I found my '76 has them the first time I took it to a knowledgable Porsche mechanic to have them adjusted. Maybe Jake Raby will comment on this one.

[DDS]

Me no expert, but hydraulic lifters pressurize when the engine is running, so if you try to adjust against them when collapsed, do you not run the risk of bent valves and other serious damage? Can you not remove the pushrod tube and pushrod and fish one out with a magnet? I would expect that any VW shop could ID the thing, or if you post a photo, someone might be able to help. This might fit with your earlier post on compression readings too if the valves were being held open by an extended lifter.


Maybe try adjusting them as if they were hydraulic, then listen and be prepared to shut her down quickly.

[Dave Bell]

Did it when I picked up my 73... but never got to run the engine first with my attempted adjustment first..... could't figure out why the darn things wouldn't adjust.... had a buddy look at the push rods... Hydraulic stuff... I then re-did the adjustment with the zero lash technique that you described and didn't look back.. worked fine.

One scary note... somehow all the fiddling I did caused at least one one of the lifters not to get oil for awhile after I first started it up. It was hammering away sounding like it was going to explode for about 5-10 minutes!... then when the oil got in... off it went and worked perfectly... but that was a very scary 5-10 minutes.

Had a similar event, (but quieter and shorter duration only 2 - 3 minutes), happen after the car had sat around for months without being started.... clackity, clack valve noise... then back came the oil and hydraulic lifting and it is again as quiet as a mouse.

- Dave

[T4 Motornut]

Guys:
The super quick way to tell (at least on all motors I've ever seen) whether or not you've got the beloved/behated hydro lifters is via the push rod. Big ol' fat aluminum jobbies = solid lifter. Skinnier ol' steelie-looking dudes = hydro lifters. No need to go taking out push rod tubes, unless you want to change out your tube seals (always a lark on your 914 with motor in place).
See also the maiing list at type2.com - there's been some traffic lately on the merits of proper and God-fearing hydro-lifter adjustment on the T4-powered bay window busses.
I got 'em in my bus and my 914 'cause I hate adjusting valves - but don't get me wrong, they still need to be looked after; just not every 3,000 miles...YMMV

[Jake Raby]

I'm an avid soilid lifter enthusiast...I like adjusting vales, especially when I see a problem that I just prevented.,..

I build 1-2 engines/week on an average, and for the last 3 years I have not assembled one with Hydros..

------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

[scottie205]

Hear is a web site that may help with adjusting hydralic lifters. Check the articles section.
http://www.bostonengine.com

[John Rogers]

The earlier post about the steel/aluminum push rods is not quite true in all cases. Crower Cams uses steel push rods with their real hi performance cams (w/type 1 lifters and roller rockers) and the lash is usually adjusted at about .001. I use this setup in my stroker motor and the heads expand enough to give the needed .006 and .008 clearance when hot. The best way is to fish one of the lifters out with a magnet and look at it. What can happen if the lifters are not full and you adjust the valves as with solid lifters the valves will not close once the engine gets hot and if clearance to the pistons is close the valves could be bent. If the lifters were pumped up before adjustment, the lifter, push rod and the valve top can be damaged. Good luck.