Connecting Rod Bolts?

[DDS]

I'm rebuilding my 2.0 and have given up on the big 4 idea. I am going to 2056cc with stock rods and crank, big valve heads, a cam, and probably crbw - Weber 44s or equivalent.
What should I do about connecting rod bolts? Are new OEM adequate for this relatively mild engine? Should I re-use the stock bolts? Any aftermarket recommendations?
TIA, Dave

[DDS]

Darn czech keyboard, I meant carbs.

[John Rogers]

New stock bolts should be okay. I'd also make sure all rods, pistons, etc are balanced (i.e. weigh the same). Good luck.

[3D914]

DDS,

I just completed assembling my 2.0 liter engine. You can reuse the bolts, but do not reuse the nuts - buy new ones. They get stressed when torqued to appropriate value (24 ft.lbs. if I recall correctly).
You may want to make sure your conecting rod pins are in good condition, or you may have received new ones with your pistons/cylinders.

Good luck with the engine. Mine goes back in the car this weekend.

Regards,


------------------
Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com

[JP Noonan]

The nuts also get peened, that is there is a recess in the rod that a peice of the nut is smashed into to lock it.

You caould also modify the rods according to the VW tech bulitian to aid is oil spash to the bottoms of the pistons. This lowers piston temps.

I have the TSB on my other computer, I'll get the link to you on Mon.

[chibone_914]

Hi Dave,

New factory nuts and bolts will work just fine for what you are building.

Have you decided what you are going to use for carbs yet?



------------------
72'914
John@pelicanparts.com

[DDS]

Thanks for the help, Stock bolts it is - frees up some cash for other things. JP - I'd really appreciate that mod.
I got the oil galley plugs out and will get them tapped and will balance the heck out of all the rotating bits. I did get new wrist pins with my pistons and cylinders and the machinist is sizing the bushings to those, so away I go, bottom end wise. Both my cranks were well within acceptable tolerances, so I'm going to stick with the stock crank and I have one spare with a set of rods to sell/trade.

I haven't decided about carbs yet John. Induction and cam choices are the last question, and I'd really appreciate some guidance.

My stock cam is shot.
I have 44X36 mm ported heads.
New 96mm pistons and cyls.
Totally rebuilt, balanced, stock bottom end.
I have a complete, working D-jet set up.
I have a FAT 440HP cam (.290 lift vs .270 stock which is OK for D-jet) and I could trade that for a eurorace P-grind (comments?) which has a much higher lift (around .400) and smaller base circes - don't know the duration but probably carbs only.

What is the best thing to do? Cheapest is to go with what I have, but I really don't like the 'feel' of the stock engine.
Will I get a significant improvement in performance with a cam and carbs given the other changes, bearing in mind that the bottom-end remains stock? (ie, RPM limited) I would hope I could get 120hp or so, and a little freer revving feel...

Any recommendations or experience? Other (inexpensive) mods I should consider at this point? Anyone want to trade my d-jet for carbs?

Thanks for the interest and help to date - the project is coming along.
Regards, Dave


[This message has been edited by DDS (edited 09-16-2001).]