Porsche Assembly Plant Error in Fuel Pump Installation?

[R_Davis]

Hi Guys,

I just repaired a fuel line leak where the main 'IN' went haywire and leaked a gallon of fuel on me and made me curse my car.

After stopping the fuel line bleeding with hemostats and vise grips I went under to repair the hoses and resolve the issue.

Since I have never been under a 914, up close and personal with this area of the car, I wondered why the Fuel Pump was designed to 'Dangle' from a hose with what appeared to be two rubber bumpers attached to absorb the shock of 'Dangling'.

Dave told me that the fuel pump has two rubber 'insulators', each with a stud going from one end into the clamp and the other end having a stud coming out to go through the engine shelf, thereby to be attached using washers and nuts. (Thanks, Dave

I carefully examined the insulators and there were no studs coming out of the other end of them. They were perfectly sealed and looked factory fresh. (Maybe ready to be poked and have a stud installed in them ? )

I was told that there were two holes or studs on the engine shelf approx 2 1/2" apart and I should attach the fuel pump clamp to those.

They weren't there. But what was there on the underside of what is called the Hell Hole were two perfectly intact German factory rubber plugs/seals.

Evidently, the fuel pump was never installed properly and my fuel pump has been dangling for the past 36 years.

So I had to improvise a way to secure the fuel pump to the underside of the engine shelf using a hole ( I drilled upward thru the shelf ), an small machine threaded eye bolt, and a washer and nut I used to secure it from the top of the shelf ... a little to the left under the battery. I ran a really big cable tie thru the eye bolt and positioned the fuel pump's isulators up against the shelf tightly and tightened the cable tie. Nice, Tight, Neat, Done. And when I pullled the pump up tightly into that position, every screw head on every clamp on that pump was angled and facing in the most perfect orientation for servicing. Amazing.

Best Part. A 36 Year old crimp in the IN fuel line was gone. I started the little car and it sounded different, felt different and drove different. It has more power and is an entirely different engine.

I am either a genious or a DA ... Hopefully somewhere in-between.

What's my point? - No matter what the manual says or others tell you, you gotta use your brain.

Cheers,

Rick

[djpateman]

UMM, I'd guess those two 'plugs' are the other half of the rubber insulators. The insulators have a threaded stud attached to a flat metal plate (think big washer) that is bonded to the rubber on BOTH ends. If the one end looked fresh and clean, then the parts are recently broken.

[R_Davis]

Originally Posted by djpateman

UMM, I'd guess those two 'plugs' are the other half of the rubber insulators. The insulators have a threaded stud attached to a flat metal plate (think big washer) that is bonded to the rubber on BOTH ends. If the one end looked fresh and clean, then the parts are recently broken.

Umm ... Ok then, Thanks. And your description of fresh and clean is correct. (Why wouldn't Porsche simply use a single threaded rod that would run through the insulator bushings? ( a rhetorical question ))

So, do the threaded rods on the other end of the insulators screw into a nut welded onto the inside of the 'Hell Hole"?

I guess I'll have to order the bushings with the bolts attached to each end.

Thanks for the info. I was baffled.

Rick

BTW, because of the new available fuel pressure, I adjusted the fuel mix, the idle and the timing this afternoon and my little car's performance is almost correct. It sounds and runs fantastically.

[djpateman]

Originally Posted by R_Davis

Why wouldn't Porsche simply use a single threaded rod that would run through the insulator bushings? ( a rhetorical question )

If they used a single threaded rod, then it would not be an insulator, would it.
The late style engine mounts are made the same way, as is the stay for the windshield wiper frame. This is a very common design and usually lasts for 30 years.

You need part 40
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/PartsLookup/search.cgi?command=search&part_number=311906091D

The nuts are not welded to the body.

[kachemakian]

Rick, why don't you convert it to a forward pump and get it out of the engine compartment? Does anyone know if Pelican has the kit for doing that? Mine came with a new in-the-box kit which I have installed. It makes the pump a lot easier to get to.

Leon Smith