Best electronic ignition to replace points?
 

Anyone have the definitive answer to the question of what is the best electronic ignition to replace points in a standard 2.0 914 with stock fuel injection, stock distributor? I know Crane makes a unit, and I have heard of "Hot Spark." Any others, and opinion on the best would be appreciated. (i'm tired of resetting point gaps and timing.)

Thanks!

Well, doesn't look like anyone else is going to chime in so it's up to me....
Almost everyone who has tried it appears to like the Crane optical unit. Only problem is that you have the control box to mount somewhere. I've been using a Pertronix Hall effect sensor (rotating magnet sensor) for about 10 years now with no problems, but a moderate number of others have had failures with them. (No control box, more stock appearance if that matters to you.) Several other similar units available using various sensing methods for in-the-stock-distributor mounting. You didn't mention which FI setup you have, but I 'think' one of them operates without the FI point system so a changeover to the Mallory or MSD distributor with the integral point replacement may be an option. (I'm carbs so I don't keep up on the FI side of things like I should). There has been a continuing discussion on this and other 914 sites on the best point replacement technology, the Search function is your friend here and on the other sites.
HTH,
Harvey

If all you want to do is replace the points, go with Pertronix.


He mentioned it has stock FI. On a 2.0 that is Djet, which does use trigger points on the distributor. So the Mallory is out.

I second the Pertronix Ignitor II. Its simple to install, and looks stock, but works much better.

Enjoy.

Will the Pertronix ignitor affect the FI triggers points
 

Hi Guys,

Will the regular Ignitor work on my '72 1.7 with D-Jetronic FI?

Reason I ask is that a pretty well known VW mechanic suggested one as the simplest way to upgrade my ignition.

Thanx,

Rick

Yes it will work on your 72. It is a nice upgrade, but it's not like you'll feel more horsepower or anything over well-maintained points. It's just nice to not have to replace or file points points and adjust gap/dwell any more.

Well then, one less thing to worry with!
Thanks Randy.
Rick

Installed the IGNITOR! ... uho
 

I installed the Pertronix Ignitor today.

Checked everything I installed three times. Then started the car. NO POWER. It starts and runs poorly but every cylinder is firing.

I also noticed that the TACH wasn't working. Did I switch the wires on the Coil?

I now have 4 wires attached to the Coil ... 2 go to the IGNITOR! and the other two ... I have to admit I ain't sure where they are supposed to go.

Q: Does the TACH hook to the + or - .... ?

Q: What is the other wire and where is supposed to go?

Q: Is there a 'Resistor' hidden somewhere in this harness/wiring that I should know about?

Thanks in advance ....

Rick

Didn't you have instructions? I'd go check for you, but my teener's in a storage barn 2 miles from here and it's dark out.

Check the air gap between the pickup and the magnet (that's what the little clear piece of plastic was for that came with the unit). Make sure the magnet and the pickup line up properly. When I forgot to install the spacer plate under the pickup unit, the car wouldn't even start because the pickup didn't line up with the magnet.

Dumb question...you did reset your timing, right? I'm assuming you had to remove your distributor to put the Pertronix in.

Rrrock,
Thank you for the post.
The instructions say to line up the BOTTOM of the sender and the reciever. The bottoms don't match. The tops do. Nope ... I didn't remove the distributor ... worked around it ... Lost the little piece of plastic .. like a dummy ... but it's a .030 feeler gauge.
I'm going back to Ground Zero and working it out.
I actually might be going back to a condensor and points ...
May be that the dwell was so far off on my car that everything around it has to be reconfigured/reset ....
Timing ... If I could get it to idle, I'd do that.
Thanks,
Rick

Don't give up on the Pertronix yet. If you don't know where the wires go, your original points and condensor aren't going to help you either. Recheck everything, and remember if your timing is way off, it's never gonna run right

Wires: There should be four plugged into the coil.

There's the power wire to the coil, a thicker black wire (may have a red stripe or a faded red stripe). It gets plugged into the (+) terminal on the coil.

The tach signal wire is a thinner black wire with a purple stripe (often faded). It gets plugged into the coil (-) terminal.

Then the Pertronix has two wires, one going to (+) for power and one going to (-) to trigger the coil. I do not recall which is which.

Try unplugging the tach wire and seeing if that helps. Verify that the wires are plugged into the appropriate terminals. Verify the timing, as you will have changed it by moving the pickup around inside the distributor body. (That last is actually the most likely problem.)

--DD

Alrighty ... Got the Tach figured out and all the wiring is together.

The problem is one of three things.

#1: The vertical relationship and positioning of the module plate VS. the sleve on the rotor. Mine are even at the TOP of the two. The instructions say BOTTOM, but that's not likely possible. And I'm not using the spacer, either.

#2: The Timing

#3: Last and not likely ... The Pertronic unit really doesn't work well with a stock 3 Ohm coil (Mine measures 3.6 Ohms)

I'll get it figured out. I'm gonna get a buddy to keep his foot on the gas so I can find a respectable start point for timing.

It's all good. What do they say, "What doesn't kill you makes you stronger ?" .... That guy didn't own a Porsche.

Thanks Guys,

Rick

It isn't the coil
 

The Coil is Good. I actually got the engine to idle today. So now I have a starting point from which to troubleshoot the lack of power and set the timing.
TDC on my car is around 11:00 when using the reference point 'notch' on the disty housing (under the cap.)

I need to adjust the Pressure Regulator and since I dont have a Meter to measure the fuel pressure, I am trying to find a starting point there also.

I can't believe that the original dwell I had the old points/condensor system set at was so outta wack that when a more precise method ( The Ignitor ) was installed, everything from timing to fuel, etc needed to be reset .... But evidently that's the case.

Any thoughts?

Rick

That is absolutely the case. Any time you change anything out inside the distributor you need to reset the timing.

Edit: Just re-read your post - You don't need to adjust the fuel pressure because of the Pertronix upgrade. Just the timing.

It wasn't necessarily that the dwell and timing were so badly off with the points. When you install the Ignitor, you are almost never putting the pickup in the exact place to set the same timing as the points gave you. And very small changes in the dwell angle (and the position of the points) result in relatively large timing changes...

--DD

Even more Questions ...
 

Alright. I haven't done anything to the car since the week before last. But today, I rechecked the air gap between the module and the disk inside the disty. Had my wife hold the gas until I could adjust the timing just to get it to idle.
Ran like an out of round wheel ... horribly.
I hooked up my induction (standard) type timing light. Didn't flash on #1 plug, #2 plug, #3 plug wires. But it Flashed on #4 plug wire.
Which leads me to believe I was running on one cylinder ?!? Yup! Turned off the engine and checked the light on my V-6 Chevy ... every wire lit the light. So it isn't the light.
I'm taking a break ...
Ideas?
Thnx,
Rick