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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Quilcene, WA, USA
Posts: 123
914 Engine maintenance

I am restoring a '75 914 1.8L and have figured out that I need to drop the engine so I can get in and do some body work (floorpan, firewall, battery tray, etc. replacement).

As long as I am taking it out, is there any maintenance, inspections, etc. I should consider doing? This is the original engine with 180K on it. I put a few hundred miles on it before taking it into the shop and it seems to run well with the exception of "hunting" at idle. Sometimes the rev's drop so low that it will stall when you first put the clutch in as you come to a stop.

It also has oil covering the bottom of the engine, so I imagine I have a seal or two to replace.

Thanks for you input.
Old 12-28-1998, 03:38 PM
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Dade County, FL.
Posts: 1,145
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Before you take it out find somewhere to steam clean it, or at least pressure wash it. I don't know who/where this can be done because of environmental concerns, but it is worth it, I've lost countless pairs of jeans from working on my 914. It seams these are the oilyest engines in the world.

Anyway, check out the Pelican site for a "easy engine drop" article.

Here's what I do while the motor is out.

1. Remove, and repack the half/shafts. There is a special CV Joint grease that should be used, it comes in 3oz. packs, don't use any other type of grease.

2. First off I don't waste my time or money on Brazilian gaskets, o-rings, or rubber. The jury is still out on their bearings, but the two or three times I, or my friends, have used Brazilian gaskets they fit poorly and leak like a seive.

2a. Pushrod o-rings, there are several tech articles on this, even some on doing it in the car. I clean the surface in the head that the o-ring sits on. I DO NOT use RTV, just oil up the orings first, they need to expand and contract, RTV dosen't do this. While the tubes are out, I pull out the lifters to see how much wear is on them. Be careful not to let any dirt get into the motor, clean the lifter bore out with a rag before pulling out the lifter.

2b. Replace the adjustment "lugs" on the rocker arms, after the mileage you talk about I'm sure they are worn past the hardening.

3. Remove the fan housing. Remove the oil cooler and soak it in a 1 gallon can of carb clean, but don't let the oil inlet/outlet holes be submerged. In other words you don't want carb cleaner in the oil cooler because it is hard to get it out. Replace the oil cooler seals.

4. While the fan is off clean it out. Like cleaning the oil cooler, every little bit helps, and these two components are about the most important ones in the cooling system.

5. Replace the front main seal. Carefully pull out the old one (I have one heck of a scar from a stubborn oil seal) and put in the new one. You can rent a seal installer, or use a block of wood and a lite body hammer. Remember to use very lite taps of the hammer and spread the blows out with the block. Be careful to put the seal in straight, if you hit it too hard or cock it in the bre it WILL leak.

6. Now take a long hard look at the galley plugs, and think about what a pain they are to get to. So either a)if they are leaking pull them out and replace them, or b) if they seem to be O.K. clean them off REALLY well (use brake parts cleaner) and put JB Weld over them. Normally I wouldn't even dream of doing this, but your motor has so many miles it will more than likely have to come out and be rebuilt soon anyway.

7. Remove all the tinware and clean the motor. I've found old spark plugs, rat poison, pine needles, and leaves under the tin. I have a big metal pan from an old refrig, I put the motor in the pan and scrub out all the little nooks and crannies with carb cleaner. The tinware bolts may be hard to get off. I use a "manual impact driver". It looks like a big screw driver but works like a impact wrench.

8. Check the endplay of the crank. This will tell you how good/bad the lower end is. Pull the flywheel and have it machined (but only if you are putting on a new clutch, a good time to do it is now). Then replace the rear main seal, and again look at the galley plugs.

9. Replace the front main seal of the tranny, and check that the little ball cup on the pressure plate fork is O.K. Again look at the Pelican tech articles for the one on replacing the clutch.

10. Replace the oil pressure idiot sender, they are only about $3 and can be the cause of some of your oil leakage.

That about covers the block, if I had a motor with that many miles on it I would replace the whole ignition system (coil, wires, points, etc.). Also all the vac lines, injector gaskets, etc. Look at the Porsche fans web site for an article on rebuilding the D-Jet FI system. Most of it is applicable to the L-Jet you have.

To clean up the block should cost less than $100 for all the gaskets, solvents, and misc. parts. The ignition system and vac lines cost maybe a little more.

Another two things that can be done with the motor in but are easier with it out: 1. Is to replace the center tunnel plastic lines with metal brake lines. 2. Take the alternator to a starter/alt rebuild shop, have them test it before putting it back in the car.

Replace the transmission ground strap, and clean up the point where it connects to the chassis.

Old 12-28-1998, 08:19 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)

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