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Garry Klinger's Avatar
 
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Question Wheel Stud Size?

I would like to replace the wheel bolts with studs. I am running 4 lug Mahles, and plan to use closed end alloy nuts. Anybody know what length stud I should use?

Thanks
Old 10-12-2001, 08:13 AM
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I don't know what length, but I strongly recommend against the screw-in studs. They were on my 1.8 when I bought it, and IMHO they are junk.

If you feel that word is too strong, how about "dangerously inappropriate for a 914"? The studs are too short for the alloy wheels on the rear, and do not have enough thread engagement. One of them also pulled out of the front hub one day. I had only gotten it up to about 1/2 of the torque spec...

If you're going studs, I think press-in ones are the only way to go.

--DD

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Old 10-13-2001, 03:38 PM
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I agree with Dave I have say use the Factory 38mm lug Bolts. Steve
Old 10-16-2001, 05:24 AM
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I strongly agree with Dave also, but I like the convenience of studs. The time to replace all four rotors is getting near, and while doing that I am going to *properly* install studs. Just wondered if anyone might have done this before and had the correct length handy. If not, I'll figure it out for myself.

Thanks for the replies.
Old 10-16-2001, 06:49 AM
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I came to the conclusion yesterday at the track, as I put on the 4 track wheels and then took them back off later (i.e. 8 removals & 8 installs) that LUG BOLTS SUCK!!!

Next time my hubs are apart I would love to do studs. Can Pelican get the correct press-fit studs? How much?

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Chris C.
73 914 2.0
70 911E Targa
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Old 10-16-2001, 07:30 AM
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I run studs on my race car and would NEVER dream of using bolts again. They have never come loose and I am running a 10" wide Goodyear slick on all corners. They are torqued to 105 ft. lbs. after every race as a precaution but have never actually had one loosen up on me. Mine are about 4" long but cosmetics aren't important. But unless you are removing them 4 times every weekend I'd just leave them as the factory intended them to be.
Old 10-18-2001, 04:28 PM
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I converted my race 914 to studs a month or so ago and it was pretty easy. I used 100mm press in studs on all wheels and they are a little expensive with steel nuts (extras). On the front I screwed the studs in from the back and used locktite on the threads after backing the shoulder of the stud against the inside of the hub/rotor. Disassembly of the rotor wasn't necessary. On the rears I had to cut off a little of the press in end of the stud so they would screw in from the back again using locktite. I double nuted the studs to tighten them and so far they work good. There is not a lot of threaded metal there and I did not want to do any welding. To cut the studs you will have to use a cutoff saw as the studs are HARD! I used steel lug nuts as they are required for racing. Good luck.
Old 10-18-2001, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by john rogers:
I converted my race 914 to studs a month or so ago and it was pretty easy. I used 100mm press in studs on all wheels and they are a little expensive with steel nuts (extras). On the front I screwed the studs in from the back and used locktite on the threads after backing the shoulder of the stud against the inside of the hub/rotor. Disassembly of the rotor wasn't necessary. On the rears I had to cut off a little of the press in end of the stud so they would screw in from the back again using locktite. I double nuted the studs to tighten them and so far they work good. There is not a lot of threaded metal there and I did not want to do any welding. To cut the studs you will have to use a cutoff saw as the studs are HARD! I used steel lug nuts as they are required for racing. Good luck.
John & all,

I'm still a bit confused on this. I thought "press-in" meant they were purely press-fit into an unthreaded hole, and had some kind of flange/head on the back side to keep them from going thru.

But John says he used press-in studs, yet they were screwed in?

Anybody have pics?

Thanx,



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Chris C.
73 914 2.0
70 911E Targa
campbell.chris@gte.net
Old 10-18-2001, 08:54 PM
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Press in studs are just like you mentioned, they are threaded and then have a non threaded ribbed section to grab the metal of the hub and a flange to keep them from pressing through. They can be screwed in from the back of the hub and locked in place with locktite and so far mine have not come loose. remember you actually jam the ribs against the back of the hub to lock them in place. To press them in you have to remove the hub, remove the bearings, drill the threads of each hole then press them in and finally install new bearings. They generally can not be reused when you have to replace the front rotors as they are damaged when trying to press them out. Good luck.
Old 10-19-2001, 06:02 AM
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