Engine lid pops open while driving
 

My engine lid pops open while driving on a rough stretch of freeway. It has happened twice this week. I need to fix this fast as it presents a serious hazard while changing lanes to the off ramp. It will only latch closed when I pull the cable. I've inspected the latch & hook for alignment & the latch itself.

speedemon,

I have had this same problem, but it was easy to fix. There are two approaches:

1)The engine lid is attached with two screws (10mm hex) at the fire wall. The small L shaped bracket on the lid has a small slot so that the lid can be adjusted in the for & aft direction. This may be all thats necessary.

2)If the slot does not offer suffient movement to allow the latch to engage far enough, you can also add some washers (spacers) between the back of the latch and the aft part of the engine bay (near front of trunk) where it mounts.

The idea behind either of these approaches is to get the small hook (on lid) to engage the latch with more overlap. This will prevent it from popping out at every pump.

Good luck,


------------------
Gerard
74-914 2.0L
3D914
rodrigos6@juno.com

I had the same problem and was able to solve it by loosening the nut that holds the 'latch-pin' in place and rotating it a few degrees. I found that the pin needs to line up just right with the latch itself. Too far to the right and the latch won;t release, too far to the left and it will pop loose on its own.

Good luck


------------------
Herb
'72 1.7 Tangerine 'Teen
'74 2.0 Red Rustmobile

HMeeder, which direction are you facing for left & right? I'll try adjusting the latch L&R.

Also check to make sure the little L shape catch is tight. Additionally, the check the welds that the L shape piece bolts into.

I also had the same problem, even after adjusting screw. I coincidentally solved the problem after replacing motor mounts.

By right, I mean the right side of the car if you were facing forward. I should actually have referred to it as clockwise if you look at it from underneath when the lid is popped.

Another consideration could be the latch cable. It is also a very simple adjustment (little friction plate on the latch itself) and if you have ever removed the interior back pad, when you put it back on, you may have inadvertently added just a smidge of extra tension in the cable. This may not allow the catch to fully close in the 'at rest position' and could cause the thing to pop prematurely.

------------------
Herb
'72 1.7 Tangerine 'Teen
'74 2.0 Red Rustmobile

I fixed mine by pushing the release knob in the passenger compartment bay ALL the way in....

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/paddel.gif


[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 11-04-2001).]

Like Fly944, I fixed mine by replacing the completely-sheared-through motor mounts. The motor was slamming up and down on them when I accelerated, and that was enough to pop the lid open.

The L-shaped hinge brackets on the firewall may have been cracking a little bit at that point, which would not have helped things...

--DD

------------------
Pelican Parts 914 Tech Support

A few pics of my car: http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Dave_Darling

I built a GT decklid and had this problem. All of the above fixes were tried but every once in a while it would pop (pretty funny too - the GT weighs nothing. I put a good size dent in the ceiling of my garage when a screw driver was "launched" by the deck lid!!!).
My problem was when I cut the lid and did the re-screening I did not pay attention to the left to right side arch of the lid. A bit of rebending and adjusting of the rubber bump stops fixed the problem.
-S