Ball Joint Removal

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

Any tricks to removing these? I bought the removal tool from Pelican, sprayed with PB Blaster but no luck so far. The four prong removal tool I'm using slips off the ball joint. Not wanting to screw anything up, thought I'd see if you guys had any tricks.

Checked the new ball joints and see the threads are right handed, so I know I'm turning the right direction. My suspension and original ball joints are in good shape (no rust and no apparant damage to a-arm or ball joint exterior).

John

Jim Smolka · 10-18-2002, 06:33 AM

The ball joint nut can be a real pain.
Even with a 3/4" Impact with 700 lbf of torque, no budge...
Resulted into to drill / grinding away part of the old nut.
Not a fun job.

Trick is to keep the special tool from slipping off the nut.

Good luck.

jabb · 10-18-2002, 07:04 AM

I ended up cutting slices in the old nuts with a dremel tool to remove the nuts. Replace with new nuts and used the tool to install the new nuts. Working on your back is hard to get enough leverage to move the nut.

Va914 · 10-18-2002, 07:38 AM

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will be attempting this task on Sat. I thought a good Pipe wrench and few choice words was all that was required??

I don't have this "Special" tool, is it an abslolute?

Thanks
Kerry

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

Kerry,

Don't think you'll have much luck with a pipe wrench.......not enough meat to get a hold of.

I've got a dremel, chisels and various other operating tools......was hoping to save the old nuts if possible.

Back to the shop.

John

Va914 · 10-18-2002, 09:12 AM

Dam..

Are the new nuts available from the FLAPS? Or do I need to order it from P Parts??? I was really hoping to finish the ball joint replacement this weekend.

Thanks for the timely posts.

Cheers

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

Kerry,

Thanks for your untested idea using a pipe wrench. After a hour or so of soaking with PB blaster.....several more attempts with the special four prong tool....then several wacks with a punch and three pound hammer on one of the ball joint retention nuts, I gave the pipe wrench a try.

Perfect tool !!!!!!!!!!! I tried the opposite side without soaking with PB and the nut came right off.

I'll attach a couple of pics of my nuts (watch it) after removal. The tech article I read says not to use the any of the ball joint nuts, special washer or cotter keys over again. I'm in the air about that one and can't provide a opinion on what is the right thing to do.

John

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

my used nuts.........note, the one on the right suffered from where I hammered away with a punch and 3 pound hammer on one of the cut outs.

second note.........the second ball joint nut I attacked without soaking with PB blaster was removed with pipe wrench but required two taps with 3 pound hammer before it broke loose. I'm 6'3", 250lbs. and have plenty a ass to put behind wrench but the 3 pound hammer was necessary.

John

Va914 · 10-18-2002, 10:37 AM

GREAT..Glad to see it worked. I needed a pipe wrench anyhow

Side note: Did your struts have the small/thin washer between the ball joint stud and the strut hole?

Mine didn't have this and I am wondering if that will stop the oil leaking . I was told to put motor oil in the strut/shock chamber.

Thanks

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

I had the washers installed on ball joint stud but don't understand the dripping oil issue. After removing my stuts, I had no oil stored or leaking??? Perhaps it matters depending on type cartridge your using.

I have heard about filling struts with oil somewhere lately but don't know if this is a requirement.

RustyWa · RustyWa's Garage

I bought a socket from my FLAPS to fit collar, I've seen them for as cheap as $9, then used a 3ft cheater bar on a breaker bar. Use a small jack to keep the socket from slipping off. Works like a charm.

Mine groaned, but came right off.

One thing to think about....you can probably use that pipe wrench a whole lot more around the house/garage than you will that 4 pronged socket...

maf 914 · 10-18-2002, 11:24 AM

In the past, after tring chisels and drifts, I removed the ball joint using a big pipe wrench with minimal marring of the surface. The access to the nut is limited and for some reason when the wrench would slip I would bang my knuckles on the A-arm. I ended up putting on some heavy leather work gloves for protection.

Putting oil in the strut tubes with the shocks is supposed to help with heat disapation from the shocks. I have not seen this called for in manuals. On a street car it is probably not necessary. I installed my front Konis dry, no problems.

Mike

Zeke · 10-18-2002, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by maf 914

Putting oil in the strut tubes with the shocks is supposed to help with heat disapation from the shocks. I have not seen this called for in manuals. On a street car it is probably not necessary. I installed my front Konis dry, no problems.

Mike

And, IIRC, The Boge insert is the one with the extra oil, whereas Koni, KYB and Bilstein do not have oil in the strut, but dry, like maf says.

Va914 · 10-18-2002, 12:25 PM

The guy I bought my '74 911 front-end from told me to put motor oil in the struts. They are Konis.
I guess i'll put any oil in the struts. The oil just seems to make a mess.

Thanks

Jim Smolka · 10-18-2002, 01:04 PM

Glad you were able to remove the nut.

Be sure to note that the new ball joint has a notch that fits into a notch on the A-Arm.

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

Jim,

I found that after removing ball joint. Had wondered what kept the ball joint from turning while loosening the retention nut.

John

Va914 · 10-18-2002, 01:24 PM

YEAAA!
Just got back from LOWES with a 14" pipe wrench. Spent about 3 mins and its OFF. Most of that time was actually trying to tighten the nut

then I remebered I wanted to remove the nut and pulled the CORRECT way

Thanks again guys.

JP Noonan · 10-20-2002, 01:03 PM

The Flaps 4-prong sockets are usally for 4x4 truck front hubs and don't fit exactly. The Haynes or Clymer manual show how to make a tool with a welder

I used the PB Blaster/chistel/pipe wrench and it worked well. I had also tried a FLAPS 4-prong socket and the socket that came with my Bilsteins but it didn't work.

Once the ball joint was off the a-arm I had a hell of a time popping out the "swedge" bolt (tapered bolt that holds the ball joint to the strut housing. I used a drift and sledge, but ended up haveing to buy a new nut because I banged up the threads. After that the BJ still wouldn't come out. I used a 14" screw driver as a drift and punched it out through the top of the strut houseing.

RustyWa · RustyWa's Garage

Yea I forgot to mention that about the sockets JP...they are for 4x4's and don't fit exactly. But it worked very well.

Isn't the Haynes tool for the strut collar for removing the shock inserts?

John2kx · John2kx's Garage

I followed the Pelican tech article to remove front strut and found removal of strut prior to removing ball joint pretty easy.

With top bolt of strut loose but still attached, I removed the lower swedge bolt. Then, placed floor jack under rotor and lifted about 2". A couple of taps on the lower A arm allowed ball joint to free itself from strut.

John