70 or 74?

[Bubba]

I have an option to buy either a stock 70 914 w/some records & well kept or a 74 2.0 carbed w/center console. Both are priced around $2,500. Any advice on these?

[bonz]

Go with the 74. It has more of the nice things like a moveable passenger seat and vents in the dash. Plus in my opnion the interior looks to empty without a center console. But that is just me. The 74 also has stronger doors, and better window lifts.

[JP Noonan]

....Not to mention the 2.0L motor (the 70 is either a 1.7L or a 6 cylinder, in which case it would not be $2500) the 73+ also have an inproved shifter (side vs. tail) and came with battery covers, so the suspension console "may" be in better shape.

[John Rogers]

Better check the smog laws where you live concerning engine mods. If the 74 is a 2.0 "6" then you have no problems, if it is a 2.0 "4", they did not come with carbs and in CA for example you could not get it smogged. at least until after 2004 when 1974's become exempt.

[JP Noonan]

Brian brings up two good points.
1. If you found two cars in your price range there are probably more cars out there. BELIEVE ME, ONLY FOOLS RUSH IN. Look at as many cars as you can before you buy one.

2. The carb is a bad indicator. The PO of one of my cars found out that not only was his "performance" Webber carb a 3200 Holley from a Pinto, but one cylinder head was a 1.8L 914 the other a 2.0L Bus head (which have smaller vavles than a 1.7L.

[bonz]

I know what you mean about the carbs. More than likely they do not have a choke, and if you live in a cold climate, like I do (Pennsylvania) and use the car regurally, like I do (to go to high school every morning) then the FI is something you want. The FI can be problematic if not delt with. But if you take your time and sort things out, it is a very good choice for a street car. My dad used this stock 74 2.0 since he bought it new as a daily driver. It went into storage in the late 80's. Now that it is driven again the only major thing done to the FI was the replacement of 4 injectors after 2 of the orignal ones siezed. It is a durable system

[halbl]

The first thing to look for is battery rust on the passenger side. The condition of the battery tray is a good start. Then look below to the chassis. Get under the car and check the rockers and look in the jack points and wheel housings for cancer. With the passenger door closed, lean heavily on the body near the door jamb to see and feel if the gap closes. Engine carburation is a matter of personal preference. One of the real joys of a 914 is handling. If the chassis has excessive flex the prospect of major repair will overshadow the engine selection. All things equal and solid, the 2.0 is my recommendation. The chance of trading the carbs for a FI system is pretty good, depending on the age and value of the carbs. $2500 should get you a decent driver.

[karl]

i have to give my two cents, but i'm biased as i have a 1970 914. i dont really like the later dash with the vents, or the console. whats the point of a moveable passenger seat? i would like the extra horsepower of the 2.0 and the side shifter gearbox. everyone seems to make a big deal about not having the fuel injection. (my friend, the previous owner thought that 29 year fuel injection just couldnt be worth while. i couldn't stop him before he got rid of it.) but even so, my car has webers(34ICT) and it runs great (never has a problem starting in the morning). not having the fuel injection will become a real problem if you have to smog the car. also keep in mind that everything in the 2.0 motor/exahust will cost more to fix if anything goes wrong. this doesn't really help that much as both cars have their good points (but smoging the 74 is not going to be cheap). what people are saying about lots of cars being around is true if you are in california. for $2500 (even more so in southern california) you should have a lot to choose from.