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Question Replacing fuel hoses

My dad bought a '75 914 1.8 that we're trying to get running. The lady he got it from had it garaged for the past 6 years. We had it running but a fuel hose coming off the fuel tank cracked so instead of starting up it just leaks gasoline. How can we replace the hose without letting the fuel tank drain? Can it be done without removing the fuel tank? If not, what do we do with 6 year old gas?
Old 11-14-2001, 07:51 PM
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Not much you can dop with old gas unless you want to run it in your lawn mower or snow blower. not going to work good so cut it with fresh gas 50:50. Just replaced my fuel hoses with braided stainless. Now I got small hands but still gouldn't fit in enough to get the clamp off the hose to tank connection. But don't worry the tank is a piece of cake to pull. Now I am looking at getting the plastic tube replaced that runs inside the tunnel. I suppose it can be done.
Old 11-15-2001, 03:59 AM
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I replaced my fuel lines in the tunnel with copper tubing. I'll never have to worry about the plastic lines hardening and cracking again.

I agree, the tank must come out. Also, when you reinstall the tank, make the fuel lines long enough so you can pull out the tank again without having to disconnect the lines from under the car (This is much easier!)

Just my .02!

Tom Friloux

'70 914 1.7
Old 11-16-2001, 06:10 AM
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Nope, all you have to worry about is the copper hardening and cracking. Copper work-hardens. The car vibrating as the engine runs (and as the car goes over bumps) will "work" the copper, causing it to get hard and brittle. It will eventually break.

I suggest new plastic lines (they are availble for some years)--the old ones lasted 25-30 years, after all. Or stainless-steel truck brake lines. I'm not sure I'd go through the trouble of replacing copper lines with SS, but I'd try to remember to keep an eye on them.

I was able to replace the under-tank fuel hoses with the tank in the car. I did have to drain it first--which was a bit interesting (and messy), when I filled up one gas jug and had to switch to a second... I don't think my hands are particularly small, but I can get them into some odd angles when I try.

--DD
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Old 11-16-2001, 08:29 AM
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Damn!! Well that is a good thing to know! I just dropped my engine out of the car to start an engine bay restoration and planned on pulling the gas tank in the front trunk restoration. Sounds like a good time for a copper to stainless steel conversion!

Thanks for the tip!

Tom
Old 11-16-2001, 09:24 AM
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I need to chime in.

I tried the SS brake line thing to replace the plastic hoses in the engine bay and could not get them to bend at all, the seams broke and the tubing kinked even with a proper bender tool. In addition, fittings have to be used at the sharp 90 degree firewall bends...a potential leak source I didn't want to deal with.

So I used common aluminum tubing, from a hardware store for water supply to refrigerators etc of the same i.d. as the palstic lines. Its been in for 3 years now, and no signs of deterioration....I keep regular watch on it, but I have great confidence in it. The fuel pressure stays right where it needs to be and I even installed it on the rear firewall to eliminate the long rubber line running across the engine between cylinders 1 and 3.

I have not tried it in the center tunnel, but I would not hesitate to, personally. I would wrap some electrical shrink tubing around it though to protect them from abrasion and to isolate them from making banging noises.

This is not advice, enter at your own risk...just sharing my own experience.
Old 11-16-2001, 11:27 AM
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I've had a lot of fun draining 3/4 full gas tanks.
I still have the plastic lines in the tunnel. Where they exit into the engine bay they are quite brittle and I realize that they are just waiting to bust.
Hopefully before they do I'll replace them.
I've had good results using brake line. You can get it in large stock sizes for truck use and it is inexpensive and has a variety of end fittings available. Just got to get creative, but simple.
I used an automotive size to replace the cable casing on my hood cable. The cable was fine, but the casing had cracked to pieces. A new cable was ~$40.00. The brake line casing was easy to work with and should last forever.

Just a thought.

Karl P.
Old 11-16-2001, 12:57 PM
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Oh and 1 more thing...

You'll be tempted to leave the tank lines long 'so its easier to remove the tank..' but don't. The long lines kink when put back in and will pinch off fuel, then you'll wonder why the car won't start and it may take you hours to figure it out. Replace those lines anytine you have the tank out. Run them long to install the tank and then actually attach them when the tank is in to minimize their length.
Old 11-16-2001, 01:14 PM
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I need to replace my lines. Who carries the plastic ones?? Pelican?

Rich
'74 2.0
'73 1.7
Old 11-16-2001, 06:25 PM
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Pelican carries the ones that are still available. I think the early ones were not for a while--I don't know if they still are or not. I suggest phoning (888/280-7799) to check price and availability.

--DD
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Old 11-17-2001, 05:20 PM
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