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Howdy folks,
I think I need to replace my clutch and I have a couple of questions. My symptom is that the engine revs don't seem to match the acceleration/wheel speed, especially at high revs where acceleration seems to pretty much stop. The clutch pedal has the recommended 1/2 inch of freeplay by hand movement, so I don't think the cable adjustment is to blame. Any other ideas or am I right to assume replacement is in order? If I do have to replace the clutch, should I necessarily need a new or rebuilt flywheel? Can I get by with the old one (114K miles on the car, I can only assume the same for the flywheel)? I plan on doing a 6 conversion in a year or two, and at that time I will undoubtedly get a newer flywheel. I currently put about 4K/year on the car. Thoughts? How difficult is the clutch replacement procedure? I read through the Pelican tech article and it says it's a 6/10. But I am a relative novice. Have you done it? Knowing what you know, could a novice pull it off on a Saturday, given a printed version of Wayne's handy tech article stapled to his forearm? Thanks in advance for any input you might have!
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Ray 76 911S Targa Continental Orange |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
Posts: 2,502
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Your clutch will most likely slip in 5th gear.
You can have your old flywheel checked and then resurfaced Be sure to buy a clutch get from Pelican. It will have all the goodies Also have the 12 point 8mm allen socket that you will need to remove the CVs. Yes a Novice can do it, but you may have to take your time and learn along the way. Hmmm. a weekend job, maybe, but you will need to have the flywheel resurfaced on a saturday, or have purchase a used/new flywheel... Tips, having 2 floor jacks and 2 sets of jack stands makes the project easier.
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'75 914-6 3.2 (Track Car) '81 SC 3.6 (Beast) '993 Cab (Almost Done Restoring) |
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Boise, ID USA
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You're right, sounds like a new clutch is in order.
The job isn't too tough; just take your time & be patient. Jim's right about the 12pt Allen socket, although my car had conventional hex bolts. Might as well look before you buy the socket. Once you've got the clutch off, have the flywheel inspected. Also inspect the five bolts that hold the flywheel in place. If they show scoring on the top surface, that is evidence that the flywheel has worn down so low that the clutch is now wearing on the bolts, which it shouldn't do. (That's what mine's doing now.) Such a flywheel is beyond resurfacing and will need replacement. Have fun,
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Mark 1971 1.7l 914 |
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While you are in there. it is a perfect time to replace the rear main seal. I have oiled down a few clutches on my type 1's before. I think the hardest part is getting the engine out for the first time.
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
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Also a great time to adj those valves.
If the pushrod seals are leaking, a good time to do that also.
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'75 914-6 3.2 (Track Car) '81 SC 3.6 (Beast) '993 Cab (Almost Done Restoring) |
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Ok, points taken.
It seems the consensus is to replace the flywheel regardless. I'll have to check with Pelican about resurfaced flywheels, since it shows NLA in the catalog. Otherwise I'll be springing for a shiny new one. Besides, all this pissing back and forth between Type IV and Sixers is making me think twice about the whole 2.7 conversion anyway. And while I'm under there, adjusting the valves, I will probably already have the tranny out, so the wheel turning techniques are right out. Can the engine be turned by the flywheel? Thanks,
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Ray 76 911S Targa Continental Orange |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
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prattrc,
Yes, you can turn the engine via the flywheel. Oh, and a 6 conversion is way cool. Worth the $$$ just to hear that six cylinder music box. ![]()
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'75 914-6 3.2 (Track Car) '81 SC 3.6 (Beast) '993 Cab (Almost Done Restoring) |
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