Shift coupler bushings

[Mark Howard]

Hi everyone:

I am in process of changing all of the shift bushings on my '75. I am having a problem figuring out how to get the cross pin out of the coupling that connects the shift rod to the front rod right behind the firewall. I have the old bushings torn out, but I can't figure out how to get the pin out.

Does it require some sort of press?

Thanks.

[TimW]

Hey Mark,

It should be held in with a threaded Alen screw/pin like the one pictured. It’s a real bugger to get out if it’s stuck, but it should come out.

Hope this helps.

[Rouser]

That "pin" is pressed out, than pressed back in after you get the two (2) bushings oriented into the shift coupler and rod assembly.



Pouding it out with a hammer and drift is done at your own risk. I took the whole shebang to my machinist and $20 got it all fixed up right.

[JP Noonan]

I used a socket that is larger than the pin but smaller than the aluminium joint. That way I am pounding on the pin and the steel shift rod not the soft aluminium joint.

[TimW]

Just to be clear the Alen screw above would screw into the top thread on Rouser’s left coupler picture. That’s the one I was talking about.

[Bill Rister]

I recently changed the bushings and pin. The bushings were gone completely with only the pin holding the two shafts together. Thirty minute job, right? Hah! Took me nearly six hours. I began by trying to tap the pin out... think it moved about 1/8 inch. Then I thought of pressing it out but did not wish to remove the rear rod to which it is attached, so I tried using a C-clamp. That worked somewhat but only moved the pin a little ways out. I finally had enough pin protruding to get a grip with a pair of Vise-Grips. I clamped down hard, worked the pin back and forth repeatedly and finally the pin with thirty-plus years of never moving finally came out.

The bushings seem to be molded nylon (I think) and one did not seat completely. I had to use an Exacto knife to trim a slight shoulder enough for the bushing to seat.

Then came the task of inserting the pin. The pin was a tight fit through the bushing before ever reaching the metal rod. But again the C-clamps were the answer.. it was a slow process but the pin was eventually pressed through the bushings.

Result? Why did I put off this job for so long? Shifting is now smooth as silk and well worth all the aches and pains this old geezer accumulated.

[Mark Howard]

Well, I am into the job right now. I took the rod out, changed the ball cup and the rear slide bushing no problem. I have decided to take the coupling and pin to a machine shop.

Just a few suprises. The PO had manufactured his own coupler bushings! Someone used some thin cardboard around the pin and surrounded the cardboard with slices of heater hose! I think I was in shock when I pulled it apart! No wonder my car shifts like crap.

New question. How the hell do you get the firewall bushing up front in the hole? I plan to take the front shift rod today and see if that helps the fit, its just too tight and very little room to work.

[Mark Howard]

Well, I'm all done! Took the coupling to my local wrench and he fixed right up with his press. Everything went back together with no problems. What a difference! The stick is so much tighter now, and I can find 2nd gear on the downshift everytime! Should have done this along time ago. However, 4th and 5th are a little tight, but I am sure they will loosen as the bushings wear in.

Feels good to finish a job like this with great results!

[SteveStromberg]

T really make a 914 shift sweet you need to make sure the Motor Mounts and Tran mounts are in Good shape.Steve