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neilca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Marietta, GA
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Weltmeister shifter spring kit

I bought one of the 1st and reverse spring kits from PP, drilled the holes in the shifter and now ready to install the springs.

Whats the trick? I searched and a few people posted you need to modify a screw driver to compress the spring but no pictures of the modification. Anyone have a picture of the mod? Any suggestions on installing these springs?
Old 06-23-2010, 05:54 AM
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You need a clean area in your work shop withwhite painted floor so each time the spring goes "sproing" you can quickly find it again.

I did it and it was a real bear. can't remember which method finally worked. Might have been the one long cuss word.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:58 AM
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I seem to remember putting a Phillips screwdriverr in the 1st hole, then missing the second hole. The spring goes over the screwdriverr. You then tilt the screw driver so that it and the spring are down the line, but against the opposite wall. You slowly and carefully push the screw driver back toward the hole, in the process compressing the spring. You end with the screwdriverr going through the second hole. You then run the retaining pin back through the hole as you carefully remove the screwdriver.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:58 PM
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Yea that's what I remember.
Old 06-24-2010, 06:56 AM
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Yes, and your results may very. I recommend wearing eye protection and possibly a cup.
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The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994)
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Old 06-24-2010, 08:37 AM
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No pictures of the tool? I am thinking of a fork device with a C-clamp
Old 06-24-2010, 09:04 AM
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The tool is a phillips screwdriver.

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The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994)
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:44 AM
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Not that tool, the compression tool.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:19 AM
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You want a picture of his thumb?
or channel locks.

There is no "special tool" just really good imaginative uses for the ones in your tool box.
Old 06-24-2010, 11:27 AM
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&





Put the lockout plate into the shifter. Insert the screwdriver into the hole where the retaining pins go, but only go though one side. Slip the spring over the screwdriver and then angle the spring toward the middle of the lockout plate and move it down to the wall of the lockout plate. Now push the sping/screwdriver towards the other retainer hole, as you compress the spring. The close you get to the hole, the more you are compressing. Once the screwdriver is in the hole, you take the retainer and push the screwdriver out. Once the retainer is in place, put the c-clip in place, before it explodes.

Repeat above for the second spring.

Now, before you put the lockout plate in place, replace the spring and the 2 bushings inside the shifter. Pelican didn't carry them, but PNA does keep them in the central warehouse.

Upper Bushing: 914 424 131/00
Spring: 901 424 132/00
Spring seat (70-72) 901 424 135/00
Spring seat (73-76) 914 424 343/00
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The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994)
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Old 06-24-2010, 12:02 PM
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Red Beard,

Thanks for the tutorial. I installed these springs last night with very little difficulty. I used your method and added the use of a pair of dykes to compress the spring. You will have to grab the spring at the very end coil to compress it fully. Once installed it looked like the springs where already in coil bind but the plate did move with lots of force being applied.

I am not sure I would install this on a street car, but for a race car it will be great for keeping me out of the 1st/reverse gate.
Old 06-25-2010, 06:39 AM
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The thing is that if you have a good lockout plate (not worn out) and you good springs, the lockout plate will still only function IF the shifter/shift rod is properly aligned.

You need to replace the bushings in the fire wall and the shift console (shift lever in the transmission). And you need to back fill the shift rod with some soft of material, to make it a tighter fit in the holes. Some of the guys do this by putting in low clearence brass-oil bushings. The low tech way is to coat the shiftrod with plumers solder or epoxy. You need to build it up and then sand it back so that the bushing just barely fits. Do this for the firewall bushing and the console bushing and you'll reduce the shifting slop a lot. Make sure you have a good fit in the ball cup as well.
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The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994)
Red-beard for President, 2020
Old 06-26-2010, 06:27 AM
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Ya what they said also worked for me. I bought one of the first kits when ********** came out with it. I ran it for 20 years and loved it. Never nicked reverse again going to second. I have recently switched to a Renshift, big bucks but I am happy with it.
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75 914-6GT clone with a 1984 Euro 3.2 motor, 1986 915 trans with Martin Bott 916 shift kit, MB911 heat exchangers, boxster brakes, etc...
Old 07-20-2010, 06:24 PM
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