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Join Date: Jul 1998
Location: Elgin, Illinois
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Gas Tank

I am about to renew the gas lines in my '73
914 with new original equipment or metal lines as per the Pelican technical article.
Has anyone had any experience with the chemicals used to seal the inside of the gas tank? Does anyone think this chemical liner will last another 26 years in my gas tank?
Thanks in advance.
Keith



Old 03-28-1999, 06:23 AM
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The only one I know of is the Naval Jelly (acid) and "gooey" black coating. The process involves major protective equipment (i.e. acid gloves, goggles AND a full face sheild, coveralls, and a acid apron). After you look like you're working in a crystal meth lab, add acid and water to the tank (one goes before the other or BOOM) then let it heat up in the sun and sit over night. Then drain the acid and try to find somewhere that will dispose of it properly, the flush, dispose of the flush, then flush again and again. Dry. Add the one or two part black stuff, slosh. All in all very simple, and the basic kit is cheap. However, add in time and danger (little Joey knocks the tank over while it is baking, yikes!) and the saftey equipment and disposal fees...

I also know a guy with an old RX-7 who had a badly rusted tank (and car, but I digress) and had it professionally done. Sorry, I don't remember the name, but I've seen ads for them in several Hot Rod mags. They sand blast the tank inside and out, then coat it with polypropylene inside and out. The tank looked great, better than new. It also came with a 20 year (at least, or maybe lifetime, again sorry I don't remember) gurantee. The actual tank can be completely shot, they are basically just using it as a form. Talk to radiator shops in your area, that was how this guy got his done. He took it to the rad place and they sent it to the company. I think they have two plants, one east and one west, that do it. The cost seemed VERY reasonable at the time, maybe $150-$200. Compare that to a new tank.
Old 03-28-1999, 03:29 PM
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There is a gas tank repair/renewal kit offered by Por-15 that consists of a wash cleaner, etch, and urothane sealer. One kit is supposed to do two 15 gallon tanks. I used it but have no idea how long it will last. You have to be able to close up the gauge and filler hole, plug the bottom hose outlets (plan on replacing the fine bras screen in the bottom). When you get the filler off you can see about half of the inside of the tank, the fine brass screen that sticks up in the bottom, etc. Lots of slosh, slosh. Note the better kits develop some expansion of gas in the tank so a perfect seal is not required. (Messy) Plan on an afternoon fiddling with it. Note the later model tanks had baffles so it you are going to the trouble be sure you spend the time on the later model. (Less slosh of gas).
Good luck.
Old 03-28-1999, 06:06 PM
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I've found that with a good soaking in PB Blaster (no, I don't own stock in the company, just I really do think it is the best thing since sliced bread) the screen can be CAREFULLY twisted, and pulled out with GENTLE force from pliers. When I put the fitting back on the tank I've used anti-sieze compound (lead paste) and K&W Copper coat. Both seem to have worked but I'm assuming the anti-seize is longer lasting.

I've heard good things about POR-15, and because halbl has used it, it may be worth a try.
Old 03-28-1999, 06:41 PM
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Thank you all for the information. Brian - The Por-15 sound exactly what I had in mind to use. Now all I have to do is find the address for Restromotive.

Regards,
Keith
Old 04-01-1999, 05:07 AM
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The Por-15 web site is mentioned on the 911BBS as Por-15.com. I know they work thru authorized distributors. I have no interest in the company, just like their products. I've heard the company is a spinoff from defense technology, container tanks or something.
Old 04-01-1999, 05:15 AM
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Does anyone have any data on this stuff breaking down under exposure to the solvents (like benzene) that are contained in gasoline? I personally would not like to have the paint slowly breaking down, and ending up going into my engine thru the injectors. Does Por 15 recommend using their product for this purpose?

Does anyone want to write a tech article on this?

Thanks,

Wayne
Old 04-02-1999, 09:29 AM
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Hey Brian, Do you any of the instructional litature. The company should supply an MSDS.
By reviewing the manufactures safety data sheets you may be able to determain the products durability.I've heard the stuff is dinomite for structural repair recoat.
Old 04-06-1999, 08:27 PM
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Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
 
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Also I had a bmw gas tank repaired by a company called Baker Road Dist. located in Minnesota 1-612-937-0388 The number is about 5 years old. The tank came back with a black plastic coating on the outside,and a red film (transparent) on the inside. I think the cost was like 125.00 I never used the tank so I can't comment on the product performance. But you may want to call them.
Old 04-06-1999, 08:40 PM
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Hello to everyone who responded to my question. After draining my gas tank as a prerequisite to changing all my fuel lines, I looked inside the tank. Wow, there must have been two cups of fine, sand like, rust particles at the bottom. There was also quite a bit of surface rust in the tank. Weighing all of my options, including purchasing a new tank (that's another story), I decided to have my tank treated by Gas Tank Renu-USA. It is a very comprehensive treatment that is guaranteed to last a lifetime. Well, time will tell. If anyone would like further information regarding this treatment, please let me know.
Regards,
Keith

Old 04-10-1999, 05:35 PM
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kieth please send me the information my e-mail is JMB10001@aol.com you link for e-mail isn't working
Old 04-10-1999, 07:46 PM
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Joe,
See the web page www.gastankrenu.com . The normal process is sandblasting the tank's interior and exterior surfaces. Once clean, the interior is coated with a sealer. The entire tank is then baked to cure the sealer in the tank. Normally the company also treats the outside of the tank with a different form of sealer. However, the outside of my tank was in very good condition (which is surprising, considering how it looked inside), and, I wanted to keep the original "concoures" look when I opened the bonnet lid. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Regards,
Keith

Old 04-11-1999, 01:05 PM
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Conventional wisdom would predict that if you make a habit of keeping your gas tank full most of the time, you will keep moist air out of the top, and also prevent rust.

Also, I think that keeping your gas tank full helps to ease some hot start problems. The gas acts as a cooler for the fuel pump, and runs in a circular pattern thru the tank. The fuller the tank, the better a heat sink it is, and the more heat that gets removed from the fuel pump.

Makes sense, right?

-Wayne

Old 04-12-1999, 03:35 PM
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