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Question Headlight door adjustment

How do I make my headlight door sit flush with the front trunk lid when retracted? One side is great, but the other sits 1/4 inch high.
Old 03-12-2002, 07:58 PM
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Jay;

There are 3 ways to adjust the door. By loosening the 5mm allen screws that hold the triangle piece near the back part of the door you can adust the 'up-down' of that back part. Loosening the 3 allen screws at the motor you can adjust the front 'up-down' and once you do that you will need to adjust the flap stop or the door will wiggle when it is in the up position.

Depending on what you want to do, adjust as you see necessary. Be careful though, because once you adjust one of them, you will probably have to adjust one of the other things. It can be a royal PITA to get it 'just right.'

Good Luck (it may just drive you nuts once you get into it!)
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Old 03-12-2002, 08:24 PM
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For front/rear height adjustment:
On the back side of each motor there is either a black knob or a threaded hole (that needs a black knob!).
By turning this knob you can adjust the height of the front (bumper side) of the cover. BE CAREFUL as turning this knob to much WILL ACTIVATE THE MOTOR. It will "blink" at you.
Scott S
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Old 03-13-2002, 12:32 PM
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That's not the right way to do it, Scott. That only works once. What you are doing is running the motor (partway) by hand--that's all the black knob does. The next time you open and close the headlights, you'll be right back where you started.

You can change where the "rest" position is in the open-close cycle by moving the microswitches in the linkage between the motor and the headlight door. I wouldn't do it, though, or you'll wind up about where my car is now--when you turn off the headlights, the left one goes up a bit and then goes down. It doesn't open as far as the right one, either. It's a whole bucket of worms to start messing with those switches...

Best bet, I would think, is to monkey around with the pivots and try loosening all the mounting bolts and pushing things around.

--DD
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Old 03-13-2002, 01:54 PM
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Just one adjustment point missing here......look inside your fender well (almost directly in line with but across from the side marker light), you will see allen head bolts (2 or 3) there to adjust other half of the rear. This piece looks very similar to the triangle piece located on inside of trunk......might be identical but mine is kinda dirty. You may not be able to see yours if the car has allot of grime or undercoating in the fenderwells.
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Old 03-13-2002, 02:00 PM
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Wow - weird. I adjusted mine using the knob over 5 years ago and they have remained aligned. Does that mean that I may have an internal motor problem? They do work smooth and quiet however...
Another thing to watch out for...*sigh*
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Old 03-13-2002, 03:08 PM
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If turning the knob caused a permanent change in the closed position, I've no idea how. Not saying it couldn't have happened--lots of things happen that I can't figure out.

--DD
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Old 03-13-2002, 09:32 PM
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Whew. This was a PITA, but I just got it done in a coupla hours.

WARNING - the headlights will automatically cycle if manually adjusted (with the black knob) a certain amount. So disconnect power before rotating that knob! The headlight motors have enough torque to sever fingers! My kill switch helped here.

Turn on the key, and standing by the drivers' door, turn the lights on and off several times. You're checking to see if they are all the way down in their travel when off and all the way up when on. Both of mine would go down slightly before coming up. So the retractor arm is mal-adjusted relative to the motor. Note whether you need to set the light "back" or "forward" on the rotation.

Go into the front trunk and remove the black plastic covers over the retractor mechanism. DISCONNECT THE POWER! Turn the black knob on the motor until the retractor arm is out of the way so you can get a 10mm wrench on the nut. Loosen, but don't remove. You may need to pry on the arm a little to get it loose from the motor axle. Adjust the arm in the direction you noted before. Tighten the nut. Now re-connect the power and cycle the lights to see how you did. Repeat ad nauseum.

Once the light is adjusted correctly in the raise/lower cycle, check to see if it is still too high or low. Loosen the three 5mm allen bolts that hold the motor, and fiddle. Get it as close as you can.

Still not right? Now adjust the pivot points for the headlight. One is in the trunk with another three 5mm bolts, one is jammed behind the turn signal inside the wheel wheel with two 5mm bolts. [I pulled the front wheels as my race car sits too low to get in there otherwise.] Adjust these fore/aft to align the headlight with the body seams. Don't go too far forward or it will rub. Adjust up and down for tilt of the light. Here's the key: ROTATE the mounts to raise and lower the headlight. I found it easier to do the one in the fender well first, then the one in the truck.

My out-of-adjustment headlights have bugged me for years and I'm glad to have finally gotten it done.

Hope this helps! Good luck!
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Old 03-13-2002, 11:20 PM
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My headlights were adjusted correctly and then one flap has taken to rubbing at the front, preventing it from closing all the way.

I'd assume one or more of the allen adjustments will correct this problem and will try that approach.

Thanks for the input guys.
Old 03-14-2002, 03:05 AM
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Note: An easy way to kill power to the headlight motor, while adjusting, is to remove the relay from the motor assembly. You can raise and lower the light via the little black knob without it cycling...lsg
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Old 03-14-2002, 06:55 AM
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I adjusted the three 5mm Allen bolts and in 10 minutes the door is perfect. . . Thanks for the help!

What is the purpose of the bolt that sits dead center behind the lamp assembly? It has a 13 mm nut on a bolt that can be turned with a flathead screwdriver (after the nut is loosened).
Old 03-15-2002, 07:22 PM
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That bad boy prevents the door from jiggling when in the up position.

Turn on the light and see if there is any play when all the way up. If so, loosen the 13mm nut and with your screwdriver back the screw out until the 'head' of the screw/bolt is resting against the stop (You'll notice a 'U' shaped bracket up inside the door along the hinge axis.) Then snug the locking nut down.
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Old 03-16-2002, 01:21 AM
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