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Location: Lakeland,FL,USA
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Questions on a 914-6 conversion

Hello,

I have a few questions:

I have a 2.7 to put in my 914, which will be mostly for fun. I would like to AutoX and I am young and do not mind a bone jarring ride!! Also the engine is built up to at least Carrera RS specs with MFI, the previous rebuilder claims 260hp at the flywheel from dyno tests (which I am inclined to believe given the technical knowledge he has)!!

1. will 140lb rear springs be adaquate?

2. What level clutch should I use with my 901 (Racing or Sport), and also where can I get one??

3. Does anyone have experience with the shift bar that runs from the gear shift to the Trans. and how it will work/fit with the 2.7??

4. Are my CV joints going to hold up? and if not what can I do?--I have heard of using 911 rear halfshafts/cv/hubs with an adapter for my 901, has anyone else done this or heard of this??

5. Also I am sure the brake/suspension question has been beat to death but...Is the 911 sc/carrera front suspension/brakes really worth the $800 or should I opt just for an early 911 setup?

6. What if anything can I do RELATIVELY inexpensively to my trans. to streghthen it for the 6--Or do I need to worry about it??

7. Also it looks, at first glance, to me like the headers from my 2.7 could be turned around and fitted in the 914, The heater boxes are already gone and with a minimum amount of prodding would just come off completely. I was thinking fabricating a connector to fit between the headers and muffler would be a lot cheaper/easier than purchasing 911 2.7 headers or god forbid having to buy $800 914-6 OEM headers with heater boxes would choke my 2.7 besides--Anyway I guess my question is "Will It Work!!"


Thanks For All The Input--This is my first 6 conversion and my father and I are a little lost in this whole mess--On the upside I have dropped the 911 engine today and I am going to clean it up and it should be ready for install soon--contingent on whether I can find an engine mount for under $500!!!--
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1969 Porsche 911 S - Only one and its For Sale
Old 03-16-2002, 02:46 PM
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Also I thought I should add I am going to add the chasis stiffening kit soon and the trans. is a 73 side-shifter-with 80k.

Thanks, Again
Ron

PS. If anyone has parts for the 914-6 conversion or other 914 parts that I could use please drop me an E-mail to talk--

PPS. If anyone is interested in trading notes on the conversion process I am always up for that!!
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1969 Porsche 911 S - Only one and its For Sale
Old 03-16-2002, 02:50 PM
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Here's a pic of what you need shift barwise, using headers.
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Old 03-17-2002, 09:18 AM
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RonD992,

To answer your questions, here we go

Q1. will 140lb rear springs be adaquate?
A1. If street only, OK, but for the track, I would go w/at least 180

Q2. What level clutch should I use with my 901 (Racing or Sport), and also where can I get one??
A2. Not an expert on Clutches, but the folks @ Kennedy Eng. are, They make a 280 LBS Pressure plate.

Q3. Does anyone have experience with the shift bar that runs from the gear shift to the Trans. and how it will work/fit with the 2.7??
A3. The shifting bar is the last thing to play with in a six conversion project. Simply install the bar as is on the fire wall side, see where it is it going to come in contact with something. Loosen the spline connection at the cabin shifter. Adj to eliminate the contact. Cut the bar into 2 pieces (cut near the rear of the bar). place and Mark the bar so that the rear bar piece is positioned correctly. Weld together.

Q4. Are my CV joints going to hold up?
A4. Good question. They may hold up, I don't trust them. I have ripped apart a stock set with my 3.2 There are several options. Depends if and how you have converted to 5 lug. But yes, I do have numerous ways of installing 911 CVs into a 914 using different adapters. In my car, I have early 911 stub axles, 911 CVs, a spacer plate. and 911/901 drive flanges. However, I could have used the 914/901 drive flange w/an adapter.

Q5. ...Is the 911 sc/carrera front suspension/brakes really worth the $800 or should I opt just for an early 911 setup?
A5. Depends. Track/autocross/duct work... etc. You could use the early 911 M style setup and mfr/purchase adapters to install bigger brakes. More options are readily available for the 911 A (SC / Carrera) setup though.

Q6. What if anything can I do RELATIVELY inexpensively to my trans. to strengthen it for the 6--Or do I need to worry about it??
A6. IMHO, I would not worry about it. Take it easy in 1st gear, and then drive it to the max. If it goes bad, buy another unit. They do make special intermediate plates and other stuff for the 901 to handle extra HP, but only necessary over 300 HP IMHO.

Q7. What headers will work?
A7. Not sure about turning the headers around. Pelican sells 914-6 headers for less than $800. I might be selling my headers and going with another MFR.

Pelican sells the Rich Johnson engine mount (the only one to use IMHO). I think it is less than $500

Oh, and you might want to install a cage to further stiffen up the car.

Have we spent enough money yet???
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Old 03-18-2002, 05:40 PM
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The original Carrera RS 1.7 motor made 210 HP. 260 HP would be possible with a motor made to run strictly on race gas, quite possibly with a higher RPM "fun zone" which would make it even more gutless at low RPMs. Unless it's an all-out race motor, I would say 260 HP is rather optimistic.

As for the shift rod, a relatively easy way to do that is to take the side-shift rod, attach it to a board, then cut out the bent section. Get a piece of rod (or better yet, some good stout tubing--weight reduction!!) and weld it in place of the bent rod. You use the board to make sure the ends stay put. That may be what JP was trying to show in his picture, but it came up as a "broken image" on my system. (Probably the whole "space character in a file name" thing again...)

I have heard that this mod results in the best-shifting 914 ever--one owner claimed it was "almost Miata-like".

--DD
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Old 03-19-2002, 08:07 AM
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Oops.....did it again, sorry, Dave.
Gotta_watch_them_spaces. Here it is again.
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Old 03-19-2002, 10:30 AM
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Dave, I was wondering why a straight rod would offer better shifting than the stock rod which is offset to get around the T4 oil sump. Does it have to do with the offset weight which would tend to rotate the rod about the axis of the end points? I understand the value of good bushings and u-joint coupling, but I admit I don't quite see the value of a straight rod, assuming the stock offset rod is rigid enough which I think they are. Do you know what your friend was getting at?

Mike
Old 03-19-2002, 11:47 AM
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Nope, I don't know what he was getting at. He may have been comparing it to old bushings, for all I know. I did not get to drive the car in question, either, sigh!! (A CIS 2.7 914-6 conversion.)

Perhaps there was some flex in the rod? I can't really believe that because of the sheer beef of it, but I suppose it's possible...

One of the main reasons to go with the straight rod, though, is that the bent one will hit stock 914-6 heat exchangers. And quite possibly 914-6 headers as well.

--DD
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Old 03-19-2002, 01:06 PM
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Yes, with some headers you can use the stock shift rod, but the ONLY reason to use a straight one instead is because you will hit the headers (or heat exchangers) with the bend in the stock one.

There isn't any mystery to it...

-Wayne
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Old 03-19-2002, 09:48 PM
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Shift rod

The conversion shift rod isn't actually straight. Years ago I purchased one from Otto's for $100 that was straight and didn't work correctly, it was nearly impossible to get it into the 1st/reverse gate.

If you look at the stock 914-4 shift rod, the end that attaches to the pivot joint and the end that goes into the shift console on the side of the transmission are not parallel or even on the same horizontal or vertical plane.

I made an assembly jig to accurately weld the conversion shift rod. I convert your shift rod for $75, and it looks like it came from the factory and works great, especially with the Weltmeister short shift kit.

PK
a914man@netease.net

ps MFI is a great system for max trottle response, but you have to jump through hoops. There are some critical system components, and you've got to get some heat for the MFI pump thermostat, as well as some specific wiring requirements.
Old 03-26-2002, 07:28 PM
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PK is right, it's not "straight". There are a couple angles (one at each end). I made a jig, also.
I found that the easiest thing to use for the straight section is a chunk from a tail shifer linkage.....if ya can find one, of course.

I don't claim "Maita like" shifting, but it's pretty damn good.
The short shifter helps here.

BTW, the pic is of the "old" motor, for those wondering about those rusty iron cyls.
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Old 03-27-2002, 12:49 AM
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JP, what kind of fitting did you use to attach your oil line to the case? Looks like an AN fitting, did you re-thread the case? What size hose did you use?
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:52 AM
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SummerSledSix,

For the pressure line that comes out of the motor, I used the stock brass line from the motor. The stock line proceeds to the front of the 914 and then turns aprox 90 degrees to the driver's side. Before the turn, I made a cut and had a hydralic shop weld on a 90 degree to the passenger side. The lines then ran fwd on under the passenger side rocker arm to a cooler.
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Old 03-27-2002, 07:07 AM
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Ron,
I have a friend in Clearwater who is in the final stages of a 2.7 914 conversion. He has done all the work himself and would be glad to show you his car and talk details. Let me know if you want to talk to him.
Old 03-27-2002, 08:57 AM
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Hey Jim, thanx for the oil line description. I did roughly the same thing, but looking at JP's pix, looks like he ran the hose right up to the case somehow. Since reliability is inversely proportional to the number of connections, I'm curious how he managed to get one less connection in his oil circuit.
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Old 03-27-2002, 09:54 AM
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I got a 30mm (I think) to 12 AN adaptor from OTTO's. There's another one at the oil tank (NOS 914/6). Otto's really has their s*** together. No hype, just gud stuff.

I did this because the long term plan was to hot up the motor and at some point I would need to tap into that line for an external cooler.
For once, a plan came to fruition and it doesn't look like that any more. I don't have a pic of the new set up (shocking, eh?), but I got rid of that hard 90 deg elbow and put in a soft one routed aft. The line then makes a 180 deg turn fwd(pass side, outboard of the cam cover) to a thermostat for the cooler. It's no longer mixed up with the headers/ oil return tubes.
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Old 03-27-2002, 10:42 AM
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