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Porsche Crest GT engine grille?

I am undergoing a 6conversion(still) and I was wondering if the GT engine grille is necessary for the larger diplacement engine conversions and if it really provides that much extra cooling/airflow.

TIA

Kelly
Old 03-19-2002, 12:32 PM
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I saw those grills on the Brumos 914s at Daytona. Really cool!!!! Anyone know how to make one of those out of the stock engine lid?
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Old 03-19-2002, 01:03 PM
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Kelly, FWIW, a friend of mine stuffed a 3.6 into his 914. He converted to the GT grille, in addition to a front-end mounted oil cooler. I'm sure you get some increased airflow in the engine compartment, but am not so sure it's enough to not require additional oil cooling.

JB - A way to do it that I have seen involves using 2 stock engine compartment lids and grilles, and then some fabrication/welding to create a single "GT-look" grille out of them.
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Old 03-19-2002, 03:35 PM
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Smile

Wayne asked me a few weeks ago if I had finished my tech article on just such a subject. The answer was no, but I hope to be back on that project soon.

Briefly, here's what I did:

*Buy a spare lid with two grills.
*Cut a rectangular hole in the lid about 1-2" from the edge (your preferance)
*Remove crossbrace and T-bars as desired
*Fit one grill to upper part of lid and attach with pop rivits
*Attach other grill to stock location
*paint as desired

Good luck,
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Old 03-19-2002, 03:46 PM
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Thumbs up been there - done that!

I made a GT grill about 2 years ago - I love the way it looks. I have seen them done two different ways, as per the pictures on the 914-6 GT web pages - two seperate screens and one screen that covers the entire lid. I thought the latter looked best. Here are the steps I took:

After removing the lid from the car, remove the existing screen section.

Measure the radius of the corners on the factory cut out, as well as the size of the outer edge.

Drill out the spot welds on the cross brace and remove it (this is the diagonal brace on the underside of the lid - the factory cars did not have this - no matter what AA says...)

Transfer the measurements noted previously to the solid section of the lid.

Cut out the area. I has to use a small hole saw (door knob type) to get the radiused corners to be clean, as the radius was too tight for a jig saw. IMPORTANT - BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THROUGH THE HINGE SUPPORTS!!! They are right below the solid area. You will end up with a really flimsy piece of scrap if you do! I used a Dremel to cut the solid area in these areas.

Now the fun part - getting the screen on. I took the risk and ordered the screen from AA as after much shopping around it looked the closest to the pictures on the previously mentioned web sites. Other than paying fifty million dollars in frieght, the transaction went fine. The screen is stiff stuff that leads to huge blood loss if your not carefull. Wear gloves! You may thing that you just cut it, screw it down and drive away. After several hours I realised nothing could be further from the truth.
The 914 deck lid has several compound curves. The factiry screen area is not flat - not at all. It is concave (convex). The deck lid it self is also arched from side to side. If you plan on using your factory release, you must get these bends correct. Here are the steps, starting from the factory screen area and moving toward the glass:

Cut the screen a good inch larger than the lid. They make a *****en table saw blade that will make easy work of this, or, if you have alot of hand strength, you can use high grade tin snips.

Measure the depth of the concave section and mark this on your new screen

Bend the screen in a 90 deg angle at this point. Measure a 1/4" up the bend you just made. Mark it and bend the screen back flat. The reason for this is that the decklid has a step in it at the transition from the factory cut out to the old solid area. the side edge view should look sort of like this: ______/---------- . Again, the screen I used was stiff stuff. I had to a hammer and a chunk of pressure treated lumber to get this bend.

Put a concave bend in the lower level of the "step". The screen should now fit the front to rear contour of the deck lid

now shape the side to side arch. Chances are the cut deck lid has now lost a great deal ofthe arch do to the cutting. You can make sure it is correct by comparing the lid to the rear trunk. The arch is the same. Continue this bending process until the screen lays nicely on the lid.

You only want a 3/8" overhang on the sides and the rear truck side. You do not want ANY overhang on the rear as it will rub on the fire wall (at least it did on my car)

Mount the screen to the lid but only around the outside edge - I used small sheet metal screws. MAKE SURE THE LID IS SQUARE - all of the cutting can cause issues...

Take a hammer and pound the 3/8" over hang flat to the side of the lid around all three sides.

Test fit, manipulate as needed

Take the lid off the car and paint all the parts - black of course!

Re- assemble, adding more screws to the more central screen area as needed.

Re-install.

Have a beer.

Side notes: I found that I was not able to get rid of all of the sharp edges around the outside of the lid. To remedy the problem I went to our local pick-a-part and purchased a pile of "u" channel from various cars - all ofr about 2.00. I ended up using the stuff out of a 924. I pushed it on around the outer edge and it works great - looks factory (I guess it kinda is...)
Also - remember, you have just removed a pile of weight from the lid. The factory release/springs will cause the lid to violently hit the aluminum trim on the roll bar (it will also launch a screw driver into next week!)

I have re-read this a few times and I *think* it's complete. Feel free to email me with any questions. I will attach a picture of my lid as well.
Scott S
Attached Images
File Type: jpg gt engine grill.jpg (42.3 KB, 1579 views)
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Last edited by Scott S; 03-19-2002 at 07:20 PM..
Old 03-19-2002, 06:46 PM
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Here is the real GT grill (picture from 914-6 GT resource page)
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File Type: jpg real gt deck lid.jpg (56.9 KB, 1315 views)
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- A pile of British stuff
- A growing pile of German stuff
... oh, and two Hondas - complete with car seats and pounds of fish crackers smashed into the carpet (and seats, and door pockets, etc etc etc....)
Old 03-19-2002, 07:22 PM
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Scott,

Good explanation and discription. Also nice work. Thanks for taking the time to post this.

What type paint did you use and is it durable? I need to paint my grills, rocker panels and valence panels as they are all rather dull. I was unsure if I should use a satin black or gloss black with a satin clear coat.

Thanks,
Mike
Old 03-20-2002, 04:44 AM
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Vey nice job thanks for the info, I was going to buy one but I think I will make one instead.

Are there any other suppliers of the mesh wire?

Kelly
Old 03-20-2002, 12:54 PM
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Scott, how close a match was the mesh from AA to the original grille material?

The original material is simply sheet steel with little diamonds cut out of it. Easy to make once the die is set up, but expensive to set up and somewhat wasteful of material.

I believe that the factory-built GTs did not use a second engine grille piece, but actually used "expanded steel"--where the steel is cut with lots of little dashes, and then pulled on to stretch into the diamond pattern. You can see little twists where the diamonds join together. This is a little more involved to make, but easier to set up and less wasteful of material. You can get expanded steel or expanded aluminum at a number of hardware or metal-supply shops (like welding shops). Yeah, you can see the slight curves and the twists in the following picture from the LeMans class-winning factory GT: http://home.hiwaay.net/~jonlowe/hagen103.jpg.

So which material did AA include?

--DD
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Old 03-20-2002, 01:29 PM
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Thanks - I hope it was helpful. I used satin black, as it is easier to clean than flat black. I don't know what to say on your rockers and such, my car is flared and the GT rocker panels came with a really good gel coat - I just left them.

Dave -
The wire is definately expanded steel. It's not exactly like what is shown on Mike H car or the others on the Gt resource page, but it is dead on as a match for what is on the 916. The difference is the amount of "expanding". The pics of the GT cars show that the screen was pulled further, creating tad bigger holes.

Again - I know there are many very mechanical folks on this list, I am not afraid of diving into any project either. Just know that this stuff, when cut, is SHARP. Future generations will always be able to trace this lid back to me, as my DNA was spilled all over it!

-scott s
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- A pile of British stuff
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... oh, and two Hondas - complete with car seats and pounds of fish crackers smashed into the carpet (and seats, and door pockets, etc etc etc....)
Old 03-20-2002, 05:01 PM
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I had a bunch of louvers stamped in the engine cover .
Looks pretty cool...this sumer will tell if it helps with the vegas heat......thinking of putting a fan under the louvers to suck the hot air out as well .
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:48 AM
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Flying914, It seems to me that a fan blowing out of the engne compartment will compete with the engine cooling fan for the available cooling air. It will tend to drop the static air pressure in the engine compartment which will make the engine fan work less efficiently. You don't want to lessen the flow of that 110 degree Vegas cooling air to those cylinders! If you really want to ventilate the compartment you could arrange the fan to blow into it, which will raise the static and increase the airflow thrugh the engine. Any excess air would escape through the engine cover grills.

For some interesting reading about engine cooling try this site: http://members.rennlist.com/chuxter/ and check the "oil cooling test" section. A big problem for the 914 is getting more cooling air into the engine compartment.

Mike

Last edited by maf 914; 03-21-2002 at 12:17 PM..
Old 03-21-2002, 12:14 PM
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The previous post about having a fan blowing "into" the engine compartment is correct. I have a curved air deflector on my roof at the rear edge that does the same thing as a fan would do although I suspect that unless you convert to a 911 upright fan you will not see much difference. A better solution might be to run an external oil cooler and fan or you could go with a water mist system at the cooling fan inlet but that might be only foe emergencies since the chemicals in ou water would deposit on the aluminum! Good luck.
Old 03-21-2002, 12:22 PM
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If you look closely at the picture of my GT grille you can see the fan I installed in it. It blows into the compartment and through a oil cooler. The combination keeps the temp very consistant no matter if I am in town or driving in the mountains here in Colorado.
Scott S
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- A pile of British stuff
- A growing pile of German stuff
... oh, and two Hondas - complete with car seats and pounds of fish crackers smashed into the carpet (and seats, and door pockets, etc etc etc....)
Old 03-21-2002, 02:33 PM
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well as usual what I wanted to say is not what I typed.
You are correct...I intend to have the fan blow into the engine compartment . I did install a small fan underneath to blow / circulate air around the fuel pump for all the stop and go ( well more like stop and stop ) traffic here during the 115 degree heat.
At least until I move the fuel pump up front .
I had a fule pump die on me and with no money to spare I found a like new fule pump from a Mercedes that I was able to plumb in.
Works really well although this sucker is loud .
Can not remember what year Benz it came off of but it didnt have many miles on it when the guy said " I now that it is the problem..replace it...( ended up not being the fuel pump anyway) so I used what I had .
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:17 PM
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