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914-6 oil lines where to run them

Here's a question for your sixers. Where is the best place to run you oil lines to the front cooler.
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Old 03-27-2002, 02:54 AM
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Some guys run them through the heat duct in the Longitudial
come up inside the cabin via the heat duct and poke out the front firewall... I am sure someone has some pictures they can show you...
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Old 03-27-2002, 03:44 AM
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I used the 911 routing as a model to run my oil lines. The 911 (at least the 84 I got my six from) ran its lines on the passenger side of the car, between the longitudinal and the removable rocker panel. One advantage to this is the outer rocker can be removed during DE's and racing to improve cooling a bit more.

(See pix below.) On the teener, since the six is turned around relative to the 911 and the engine oil cooler is on the driver side, I ran the oil lines on the driver side. Porsche seems to have had this in mind, as the threshold support bracket had large holes on that side, and a doghouse at the front of the longitudinal seemed to be formed to allow the lines to pass. I had to use the old kinetic adjuster to form the front of that doghouse to allow a decent hose radius.

Getting to the front trunk from the long. area is the fun part. I cut a hole in the very front of the inner / outer long, routed the lines into the cabin, then cut the end out of the the little duct-like structure that is welded to the wheel well, and ran the oil lines through to the front trunk. Added a little fire-sleeve to keep the carpets cool, and sealed the outer hole with urethane caulk.

If I had to do it again, I might follow the 911 routing a little more closely and NOT route the lines through the cabin. The 911 lines come out of the front of the rocker and go up and around the top of the wheel well to attach to the cooler which on the 911 is mounted IN the wheel well, leading edge. There is not enough room to mount the cooler in the wheel well on the teener, but routing the lines up and over, and going thru the front trunk wall at the leading edge of the wheel well might be a slightly drier option. This avoids holes in the longitudinals, especially ones that are in the "splash path" of the front wheel. Challenge of this approach is a fairly tight radius bend coming out of the front rocker to go vertically up the back of the wheel well, probably too tight for AN-12 hose. Perhaps a 90 deg fitting would solve that problem.
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Last edited by SummerSledSix; 03-27-2002 at 06:43 AM..
Old 03-27-2002, 06:38 AM
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OK, technology is not cooperating today. Here are the other 2 pix:
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:46 AM
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no i do not wish to debug the runtime error!
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:47 AM
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John, the holes in the sill plate reinforcements that you ran your oil lines through were put there for the charcoal cannister vent lines on 70-74 cars.

--DD
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Old 03-27-2002, 07:28 AM
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Uh - well, uh, guess that explains why I had to enlarge those little buggers to get the oil lines through.
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Old 03-27-2002, 10:01 AM
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John:

Sanitary install. I did mine a little different. I didn't find any way to avoid passing thru the passenger compartment either.
I really didn't like the idea of running the lines into the front wheel well, ala the 911.

I do have a couple pics, JOe, but either my puter or the list is technically challenged today.
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Old 03-27-2002, 11:03 AM
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Hey guys....... my install is on a 4 and thus I choose to run down the passenger side, but....

I ran the lines on the lower side of the rocker and through some of the above mentioned bracing... at the forward end of the longitudinal I went through the last 6 inch part (outter layer only) of the longitudinal and into the fender area. NOT into the passenger compartment. The braided stainless steel lines then run up towards the top of the fender and enter the front trunk near the original washer bottle. They proceed down and under the gas tank and into the forward compartment......

I used rigid black plastic (available in rolls for fabrication work) to create a inside fender liner for the back part of this front fender. Its held on by small sheetmetal screws... The lines are all protected from rocks or debris. Nothing is exposed, and nothing is inside the drivers compartment. I was afraid to weaken the longs anymore than necessary and even though the car is caged, I thought best not to run the lines through there and into the passenger compartment.
Old 03-27-2002, 11:31 AM
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For my '75 914-6 system, I ran the pressure side behind the rocker on the passenger side, then around the wheel well towards the front of the car. Then, under the turn signal and turned twds the center to a Mocal theromstat. From there, I have to small oil coolers in parallel mounted into the steel part of the front RBBB.

For the return side, I ran the AN-12 line around the drivers wheel well and behind the drivers rocker cover and through the hole where the drain tube was for the rain tray. And then the oil goes into the tank

Anyway, the system works for me.
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Old 03-27-2002, 05:37 PM
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Jon Lowe has some good shots on his site. I hope to duplicate something like he's done, which I believe is factory correct.

Try his GT site: http://fly.hiwaay.net/~jonlowe/MyGT.html
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Old 03-27-2002, 05:56 PM
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This is one occasion where I disagree with the factory. I myself think of the 914-6 GT oil line routing not as "factory correct", but as a "factory hack".

I think it's not a great idea to have lines carrying 220+ degree oil running through the driver's footwell. The odds are small of getting any leaks just there, but it would be a really really bad thing if there were any. Odds are higher in a race car, which is subjected to more stress than a street car and has higher odds of being smashed into something.

The passenger footwell would be less bad, as the passenger can move his or her feet, or suffer serious burns, without losing control of the car. But I think the best way is to keep them out of the cockpit entirely. That's my opinion; I'm sure others have their own.

--DD
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Old 03-28-2002, 08:07 AM
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Uh-oh...
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Old 03-28-2002, 09:10 AM
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OK, now the pic upload is working again.
I tested my oil lines/cooler set up to failure. The cooler gives up first. Use good stuff and the chances of an oil line bursting is nill.
I pressure test my lines when I make em' (120lbs of air), but still won't put any connections in the pass compartment.

*Disclaimer*
Should a line burst, the oil pump will empty 12 quarts into the pass compartment in about 5 sec., you will be burned beyond recognition, loose control of your car, plow into the crowd of your ardent admirers, your heirs will be sued and be left pennyless, and have to sell them selves into prostitution. Worst of all, you will be remembered as the chump that didn't listen to Damp Dave.

I popped out the cover in the long and used the hole that is there.
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Old 03-28-2002, 09:55 AM
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JP

You need an Ejection seat for situations like that
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Old 03-28-2002, 03:43 PM
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Wouldn't an oil guard like on JL's car work to prevent a dangerous situatuation? I was thinking about a fiberglass reproduction of this piece...
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Old 03-28-2002, 05:36 PM
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Wouldn't an oil guard like on JL's car work to prevent a dangerous situatuation? I was thinking about a fiberglass reproduction of this piece...
Any idea where I could find such a fiberglass protection?
Thanks,
Old 10-10-2017, 06:18 AM
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You could easily make that if need be using the “lost foam” process. Get some urethane foam and carve it to the desired form, lay up four or five layers of cloth on it, and after it has cured hog out the foam.
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Old 10-10-2017, 09:13 AM
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You could easily make that if need be using the “lost foam” process. Get some urethane foam and carve it to the desired form, lay up four or five layers of cloth on it, and after it has cured hog out the foam.
Thanks "Steam Driver" but I prefer something ready to use.
Old 10-11-2017, 12:26 AM
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any pictures of running the oil lines in the inner fender like on the 911?

See that this is the way ERP solves it.
ANyone has i DIY picture with braided lines ?

What AN is used on the lines? AN-12 , or is this too small ?
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Old 10-17-2017, 04:24 AM
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