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Loss of Power

Hello Help,

I have a 2.0L dual Weber Carbs. I have had no problems for a year until January. My mechanic fixed that problem for an outrageous amount. The carbs were rebuilt.

Now, a couple of months later it seems as though I have the same problem. A loss of power. I have driven the car about 100 miles since the first fix. If the number 1 and/or 2 spark plugs are taken off the distributer cap, there is no change in RPM's. However, if I hold the wires about a quarter inch away, the RPM's jump about 200.

The number 1 plug looked like it was full of fuel. Would you say this is because not enough spark? Does this appear to be a plug problem, spark plug wire problem, or carb problem, or dist. cap problem? I have a condenser and points on in now. Could my timing be off?

I have a Crane 700 that was on my 1.7L FI, that never ran right, and my mechanic said that system doesn't work with my 2.0. Has anybody gotten this system to work on their 2.0L?

The car was tuned in Florida, and I'm now in NJ. Should this matter?

Thanks.
Old 03-27-2002, 01:01 PM
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I run a 2.0L 4-cyl with dual Weber 44 IDFs and a crane 700 module and optical points. I have no trouble with this set up. In fact, a mechanic took my module off another 914 because he said it was broken, so I took it and tried it out-no problem. There shouldn't be any problem with running this module, except if the module is shot. The only thing the module does is replace the points, so the only way I know to test it w/o a scope is to make sure a spark is being sent to the plugs. Put a plug (from your engine or any plug lying around) into a cable and hold it carefully so that it's grounded. Have someone crank the engine and watch the spark. Blue or white sparks are good-theyre hot enough, yellow or orange are weak, and may suggest a coil problem. I once heard a wise man say that 95% of the time what you think are carb problems are in fact electrical. These carbs are great, and with a fresh rebuild, shouln't be giving any trouble.

Your description of loss of power is a little vague. Do you experience it throughout the RPM range of the engine? Does it come and go?
Old 03-27-2002, 01:34 PM
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My carns are 40's.

The problem happens throughout the entire RPM range, all the time. I don't notice it that much on idle. The car starts a little ruff when cold but after a couple minutes idles okay when warm.
Old 03-27-2002, 04:02 PM
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Get a new mechanic.

The XR7000 that fits in the 1.7 distributor fits into the 2.0 distributor just fine. It is possible that the one from your 1.7 didn't work and that is why you don't want to use it in your 2.0--but it is very definitely not the case that a 1.7 XR7000 doesn't work in a 2.0 . Because they're the same part. (Unless your 2.0 is a 2.0 Six???)

It seems like you have some kind of ignition problem. I don't know what kind, though the symptom sounds somewhat familiar somehow... Anyway, I would do the full electrical tune-up. Check the dwell, set the timing, inspect the points and condensor (and wiring thereto), swap the plugs and plug wires and quite possibly cap and rotor. See if that helps. You may simply have a couple of fouled plugs.

If that helps, run it for a bit and then pull the spark plugs again and look for the color of the deposits on them. Black and sooty is too rich (too much fuel), brown to tan is the "good" range, grey or white is too lean (not enough fuel). Sounds like you have too much fuel...

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Old 03-28-2002, 08:13 AM
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Hi Dave,

I have the 2.0 four. Maybe my Crane part doesn't work because it's an XR700 and not the XR7000 that you mentioned. That's a shame because I don't even think I put 25 miles on it. It's practically brand new. However, my 1.7 never ran right with it either. A different mechanic installed that.

This may be an idiotic question, but is the dwell, timing and points set the same with carbs as it is with FI?

I only pulled number one plug. That definitely is getting too much fuel.

Thanks a lot.
Old 03-28-2002, 09:23 AM
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too much fuel

Just prior to my unfortunate motor blow up I rebuilt my 44IFD's. The reason was becuse the float on one side was not seating. This let the bowl over flow and splash gas onto the butterfly. You can see it looking down the throat of the suspect cylinder. You just can't adjust the fuel mix no matter what you do.
Old 03-28-2002, 10:40 AM
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The timing spec depends on your distributor, mostly. If you have the stock dizzy, use the stock method & specs (27 deg BTDC @ 3500 RPM w/vacc hoses disconnected). With an 050 distributor, see the "setting timing with carbs" article in the Tech Articles section of this very website. With an 009 distributor, remove the dizzy and throw it away, then replace it with one that actually works decently with a Type IV motor...

--DD
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Old 03-28-2002, 01:35 PM
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Now I'm not sure which distributor I have. Maybe this is the .050 that people talk about it. However, this doesn't have that satelite looking thing hanging off the side, so I have no vacuum lines that connect to it. This appears to be a centrifugal advance distributor. Is this like the .050?

Thanks.
Old 03-28-2002, 02:04 PM
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The .050 and .009 distributors are both centrifugal-only. The numbers are the last three digits of the part number--I think of the Bosch part number, not the VW/Porsche one. You may be able to read them with a good light and mirror.

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Old 03-28-2002, 08:31 PM
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Without removing the distributor, I can't tell the part number. But I replaced the plugs and cap, the wires were not in stock, and the problem went away. Now, I have some white smoke. I guess that's too much fuel. I'll get that fixed.
Old 03-30-2002, 10:10 AM
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White smoke is generally an indication of oil burning, unless your teener is water cooled (antifreeze burns white).

Black smoke is an indication of an overrich mixture.
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Old 03-31-2002, 05:54 AM
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