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Linkage

I think I am going crazy... I recently purchased the Hex bar Linkage from CB Performance for my conversion to dual Dell's. Here is my dilemma... I can only get the linkage synched at either idle or wide open throttle (WOT). Whichever I get synched then the other is off by about an eight of an inch at the throttle cam. I have messed with the geometries of the linkage bar but am at a loss. I have tried for two days to get this to work. The castings of the arms that come off the hex bar have two different markings on them, one is a "b" and one is a "c'. CB Perf tells me that this does not matter and that they don't understand why I am having such a difficult time. "People have been using this for 28 years and never had this problem". Am I the only person that can't figure this out.
There seems to be a lot of slop in the castings...maybe PP can build a better mousetrap???
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
JB
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Old 04-02-2002, 12:04 PM
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You say you have messed w/ the geometries of the linkage and I trust you are right and you know what you are doing. But, that having been said, the answer lies therein. Each piece must measure the same from one side of the engine to the other. Are the carbs the same? Can you switch the carbs and get the same results on the same side or does the problem move with the carb? Now I have Webers, so if I said something stupid, it's because I'm thinking in general terms not in terms of Dells.
Old 04-02-2002, 12:20 PM
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BTDT - First make the 2 drop links the same length. I adjust them so that 1/2 the thread is in the heim joint and half is exposed, this allows a larger range of adjustment. Then reconnect the drop links to the carbs and L shaped arms on the linkage. Next you need to adjust the L shaped arms on the cross bar. You need to slide them away from or towards the carbs until the angle of the drop link is the same. If the angles are different, they will pull at different rates causing the problem you have. Get them as close to verticl as you can, but more importantly, get them at the same angle. Once you have them set, adjust the drop links until they pull evenly from idle to wide open, then lock the jamb nuts.

Hope this helps,
Ed
Old 04-02-2002, 03:15 PM
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The previous post is correct with a couple of additions: After everything is hooked up and measured, unhook one side to sync the carbs at idle and make sure that each barrel is flowing the same. If you don't have a sync meter then you'll have to get one. Then hook things back up and with the engine off, test for full throttle and the stop at the pedal should stop before the carb linkage does, otherwise the linkage will bend and break shortly. You can test sync at a mediul RPM such as 3000 or so if you want, but as was posted before if the drop rods are vertical and both sides are the same then the carbs will open the same. Good luck.
Old 04-02-2002, 04:32 PM
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As the above posts state, all arms, left and right, must be equal and the linkage installation should be symmetrical. Is there any chance the throttle arms on the carb shafts are different? This might happen if you got the carbs used and they were from different sources. Just a thought.

Mike
Old 04-03-2002, 05:11 AM
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oNCE YOU GET IT YOU WILL BE SO SATISIFIED

I think MAF nailed it you might have two different length arms attached to the throttle shafts. Once you get this sorted or verified. the rest if what is posted from these experts should put you on your merry way to carb heaven. (just keep track of your washers).
Old 04-03-2002, 07:35 AM
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Just got it running today!!!
For the archives... The CB Performance linkage come with a heim joint extension. This is needed to push the linkage arm into a more vertical relationship. If you leave this extension out the linkage will not actuate both sides the same amount. It is a little black piece that comes in the kit. Hopefully this will help someone to be a little less frustrated than I was. I have to say though...once it started I took back all the bad things I said about everyone and everything related to the 914. I thought is was just a funny reference when people said their carbs "bark". Let me tell you...when I hit an open section of road and started to go through the gears, every time I floored it I thought I was being attacked by a Rottweiler!!!! These things make some noise. Now I know why some people insist on staying with FI. I love the noise though...kinda like a symphony playing right behind your head!!! Here's a pic...let me know what you guys think!!!
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Old 04-06-2002, 06:56 PM
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what is the black wire/cable running aft of the throttle cable connection point or am i seeing something strange in the picture?
Old 04-06-2002, 08:17 PM
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throttle return spring???
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Old 04-07-2002, 12:52 AM
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Right on JP...
We will see if a (now three) bungees will pass Tech Inspection this morning.
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Old 04-07-2002, 03:49 AM
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Now those are some velosity stacks!!! How tall are those and can you fit air cleaners over them and close the lid?
Old 04-07-2002, 11:25 AM
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You see those little "socks"... well, they just about fit. I am trying to locate the shorter set of manifolds so I can continue to use those stacks. Everytime I look down them after a hard run I can see the vapor cloud...I love these carbs. Even if they make it so the bottom end is non-existent.
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Old 04-07-2002, 07:45 PM
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I have a set of manifolds like yours, I 'think' they are NLA and worth something, to somebody I sure. The newer manifolds I have are maybe 1-2" shorter, so that should help you. Also if I'm correct shorter manifolds raise the RPM range of torque, so you may actually lose some bottom end grunt. I'm really just mentioning it so you can find out from someone in the know, I'm not sure if I have it backwards. :0

Might have to go with shorter stacks......
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Old 04-07-2002, 08:24 PM
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If you ever plan to really build a big four, the velocity stacks help in the idle/low rpm range. If you have a severe overlap cam, the charge can be "spit" back out the intake. The longer velocity stacks help keep the "spit" in the barrel to be sucked in again.

Longer intake manifolds ameloriate this problem somewhat too.

On the race car, we used a "sock" type air cleaner. Wire mesh, with foam rubber condom, sprayed with "sticky stuff". Kept rice hulls & dirt out of an expensive engine.
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Old 04-07-2002, 09:04 PM
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JB, The company PMO, who sell carbs, etc. for Porsches, has a short T4 manifold. I have a pair of them for 40 IDFs. They may also make them for 44's. You may want to give them a call.

Mike
Old 04-08-2002, 04:31 AM
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Do you know their website address??
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Old 04-08-2002, 04:36 AM
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They don't have a website, or a phone number. They only take mail order and faxes. I was a little skeptical when I ordered parts by fax, but they arrived in three days. I faxed them a list of what I needed, along with my credit card number, and my address. I don't have a fax, so I used Mail Boxes Etc to send my order.

PMO Fax number: 310-394-6313

Justin
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Old 04-08-2002, 07:52 AM
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JB and Justin,

I didn't realize they no longer listed a phone number, but I just checked their ad in Panorama and there is no number. When I dealt with them several years ago it was by phone. Oh well.

Mike
Old 04-08-2002, 09:32 AM
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No phone or website??? Let me get this straight... You write down your credit card number and fax it to another number that you have no idea where it is going to or who is getting it??? I can live without the mainfolds for a little while longer!!!
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Old 04-08-2002, 05:53 PM
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PMO

I *always* want to try Pelican first, but if you need a part from PMO I would not be put off by the method of contact. I have heard good things about PMO, and I know my mechanic has used them.

Recently I faxed PMO a request for recommendations on a reference source for more information on the carbs on my -6. Richard called me back promptly and mailed me, for free, a detailed set of instructions on maintenance, tuning and repair of the carbs in question.

YMMV
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Old 04-08-2002, 06:17 PM
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