adjusting the front height
 

I need to drop the front an inch & 1/2 or so, I unloaded the weight in the front trunk and know Im riding high. for the torsion bar adjustment screws, I turn them counterclock wize right, Ive been soaking them in liquid wrench for 2 days and tommorrow im going to adjust them. can some one tell me how sensitive the adjustment is, I mean, one full turn =2 in or something... any aprox will do, also anyone know the hex socket size for these screws?

Thanks



[This message has been edited by rmolina (edited 05-29-99).]

[This message has been edited by rmolina (edited 05-29-99).]

I think it is a 11mm but I've used 7/16" in a pinch. I believe clockwise rises the car, you'll figure it out, if it is easy to turn you're lowering, if it's a pain you're raising. Now for the fun stuff... If you bottom out the adjuster (I consider 2-3 complete turns away from where the screw stops turning "bottomed out". In my opinion the screw needs some force on it to keep it in place) you need to pull the adjuster off and turn the torsion bar one spline. Also others have said that if the adjuster gets toward the end the car gets "bouncy" I don't have the same experience, of coarse I'm due for shocks. The Haynes manual gives a good proceedure for lowering the car, the distance between the ground and the center of the wheel should be 90mm (+/- 5mm) more than the distance between the center of the tortion tube and the ground. If you are raising/lowering the car anything more than a turn then "bounce" the car every so often to allow the suspension to unbind and settle into the new adjustment.

Also remember that lowering the car can induce "bump-steer" i.e. the wheel shoots out of your hand when you go over bumps.

From what I hear, you should roll the car back and forth (and possibly bounce it as well depending on whom you listen to) after every adjustment, before every measurement.

--DD

Thanks Ill try it, Im sure that the rear is sagging,so I know its time to replace all the 30 yr old stock shocks/springs and trosion bars, but then I mind as well do all the bushings and ball joints... ahhh it never ends.... oh well got love it

thanks,

Be Sure to consider the change in Caster / Camber if you lower it too much. In fact a good 4 wheel alignment is a good idea after major suspension changes. A couple of degrees of change can be done in a hurry when changing front or rear height.

Im at 24 in from floor to outside wheel well, when mesuring through the center hub. The car looks and handles much better, very minor kick when going over bumbs. I think its a keeper http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif thanks for your help...