Adjustable front sway bar question...
 

The PO was kind enough to install an "adjustable" front sway bar on my teener. I've since swapped in a 911 front end, and am in the process of grinding off the mounts for the (non-adjustable) 911 sway bar, in preparation to weld in some U-tabs to pick up the drop links from the original sway bar.

Something doesn't compute here, though. I checked the tech article on the front sway bar install, and I believe it shows a non-adjustable model. Mine looks a lot like it, except the sway bar lever arms have 4-5 holes evenly spaced along their length mount the drop links with varying degrees of leverage. My question is regarding the drop links and the U-tabs. The top of the drop link picks up the sway bar lever arm with a bolt whose axis is parallel to the sway bar itself. So that would let the drop link swing forward-backward. The lower end of the drop link picks up the U-tab with a bolt whose axis is roughly parallel to the front torsion bar, ie rotated 90 degrees from the top bolt, which would let the bottom of the drop link swing right-left. OK, the rubber bushings allow some off-axis slop, but how would you "adjust" the top bolt on the lever arm without bending the h&ll out of the lower bolt / U-tab?

I dutifully purchased a set of Weltmeister spherical rod end drop links from P/P, based on the assumption that all that spherical-ness should give the drop links the play they will need. But now I'm wondering which direction to line up the U-tabs when I weld them in???

That would seem like a good question to me. When I looked at my control arms, I see that they are rotated 90 degrees as you state, apparently so that when the control arm travels up and down, the bushing is allowing the drop link to swivel in the u-tab at full droop and full bump. So really you have the drop link swiveling in two directions at the same time with the suspension travel being the most severe of the two. Hopefully the spherical rod ends you purchased will accomodate the movement. But like I say, my set up favors the suspension travel as being more accute than the sway bar, even if located in one of the holes that send the drop link down at an angle.

Don't know if this will help, but...,

The effective rate of an antisway bar is a combination of the diameter of the bar and the length of the arm. The longer the arm, the greater the torsional force applied for a given suspension movement.

The extra holes drilled in the arm allow for increasing and decreasing the effective length of the arm. The closest hole to the bar will give the least amount of torsional twist to the bar for a given suspension movement.

In theory, the lower mounting point should also have an equal amount of holes as the arm. The idea being that the droplink should always be perpendicular to the road surface for maximum effectiveness. If it isn't you don't get the full change in the effective length of the arm. An angled droplink effectively reduces the length of the arm.

The directional positioning of the lower drop link mount is of no matter other than to not allow the attachment point to "bind" during suspension travel. It traverses an arc in the up and down movement, so the attachement is set directionally to allow for this arc. A HEIM joint can (almost) swivel in all directions and is an excellent attachment device.

The length of the drop link is only a matter of what length is required to keep the antiroll bar arm parallel to the road surface at rest (unloaded bar). If the bar is loaded, due to unequal length droplinks, not only will it be difficult to remove or attach, it will give unequal roll characteristics.

The ideal pickup point of the droplink on the suspension arm is as close to the ball joint as practible (maximum arc deflection for suspension travel). The farther the mount is positioned toward the inboard suspension pickup, the less torsional twist the bar will see. This condition can be corrected by increasing the antiroll bar diameter to get the same effective rate. Or, in other words, short arm = large diameter bar ~ long arm=smaller diameter bar for an equal amount of torsional resistance in lbs/inch.