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canna change law physics
 
red-beard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
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Long term Storage

I saw another thread which brought the topic up, but didn't really hit the nail on the head.

I may need to put my 914/6 in storage for about 2 years. There maybe no way anyone will be able to crank/start/run the car during that time. What is the best way to preserve the car during that time? What steps should I take?

Obvious: Drain the gas tank
Oil: Switch to something synthetic to prevent sludging?
Cylinders:?
Interior?

James
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:29 AM
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These spark plug desicants might be worth a try. Never used but?? http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0101.exe?&UID=2002081911450246&SKW=TEN5&FNM=20

I would be most concerned with cylinder corrosion and mice tearing up the interior/wiring. Drain the fuel as you said. Any oil (overfilled) should be fine if it has no run time on it (new).

How about one of those plastic bags you seal the car in with loads of desicant?

Make sure you put in clean coolant and grease your muffler bearings, too (comic relief)
Old 08-19-2002, 07:50 AM
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I would also put some steel wool in the muffler opening to keep the critters out of exhaust/cylinders.

Justin
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Old 08-19-2002, 07:56 AM
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Maybe a little Marvel Mystery Oil or WD-40 sprayed into the spark plug holes. (Not much!)

Remove the battery from the car. It'll go flat anyway, but this will keep it out of harm's way.

New fluids--all of them. And again (at least, brake fluid) when you pull the car out of storage.

...Not sure what else. I'm sure other suggestions will show up on this thread.

--DD
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Old 08-19-2002, 08:10 AM
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I stored my car in a residential garage for 7 years and did the following:

Changed the engine oil.

Placed the car on blocks to save the tires. (Didn't work. After my return, the Pirelli tires began developing bulges on the tread due to separating belts, probably due in part to age.)

Sprayed everything in the engine compartment with WD-40 just to leave a light oil film on bare metal surfaces.

Ran the tank dry by disconnecting a fuel line and using the fuel pump to transfer the fuel.

Ran the Weber carbs dry.

Poured a little oil + Marvel Mystery snake oil (Why? I don't know!) down the Weber throats and cranked the engine over a bit.

Removed the battery. I was concerned about corrosion but that may not be a problem with an idle battery.

Placed some padded packing blankets over the body for ding protection and then covered with a car cover.

Placed some cardboard under the engine to protect the floor.

Left town.

About a year later I read that it was best to leave the tank full to prevent corrosion. I contacted my then brother-in-law who filled the tank for me. It then sat idle for the next 6 years.

When I returned, I installed a new battery, changed the oil, drained the fuel, added fresh fuel and started it up. It ran for a while before it choked down. The fuel pump, filters and carbs were full of sediment from the tank. Fine brown powder that clogged the pump and carbs. Removed the tank, rinsed it out with mineral spirits, put in a new fuel pump, new rubber fuel lines and filters (before and after the pump this time). Cleaned the carbs. This time it started and ran well.

The treatment of the fuel tank is an area I would pay more attention to if I were to store it again. Should the tank be dry or full? Should a fuel stabilizer be used? Not sure. One thing I would definitely do before restarting is remove and flush the tank after a long storage period. This may save other components, as it would have in my case.

Mike

Last edited by maf 914; 08-19-2002 at 10:19 AM..
Old 08-19-2002, 09:10 AM
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Why not fill the engine compleatly with oil. Right to the top. No air, no rust. Pull the plugs and fill the heads too. Just remember to drain it before starting again.

I store my marine engine in the winter and use a product from Mercury that is designed for this porpose. Pull plugs, spray heads, injectors, ect. If your draining the fuel tank and pulling it, I'd leave it open to breath, but put a protectant inside also.

Moth balls work to keep out critters.

Or have a friend just start the car once a month.
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:41 PM
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something beyond the mech issues. if you live in a damp climate you could use the items boat owners use to help keep moisture levels down, i think they're called dry-z-air. one each in the trunks and interior. if you have mice put a box of some sort of rat away under the car. of course remove the bat and use four jack stands. after you remove the bat you could sprinkle some baking soda on the tray and shelve area to help neutralize and risidual acid. after all that work what's up with 2 yrs storage?

kevin

Last edited by Kevin Powers; 08-20-2002 at 04:21 AM..
Old 08-20-2002, 04:04 AM
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canna change law physics
 
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My company encourages it's best people to take overseas assignments. I'm working towards one right now, probably to take place Summer or Fall 2003. Depending on where I go, I might not be able to take the 6. In the end, it might be cheaper to have the car shipped to where I'm going, than to have it stored. BUT, if the assignment is Singapore, my chance of getting a car imported is nearly 0, even if it is temporary.

The other 2 main offices are Belgium and Australia. If it's Belgium, the 6 comes with me! And of course it will get a trip back to it's home!

James
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Old 08-20-2002, 05:11 AM
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You can always leave it with me - I'll make sure the engine stays oiled really well and the gas won't turn to lacquer. I'll even shade the driver's seat from the sun.
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:27 PM
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canna change law physics
 
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Yeah, OK...Just remember to change the oil and grease the muffler bearings!

James
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The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the engineer adjusts the sails.- William Arthur Ward (1921-1994)
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:29 PM
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