You can get there... but not from here!
 

This should get yer minds to think'n 'bout all the places you've tried to access with tools in yer hands.
The other day, after reading a few threads about the jittering steering and the ground strap, also the little spring clippy thingy under the seat for sliding it out, I got the bug to mess with these things that needed my attention.
The first one was the ground strap. Access was easy where it attached to the bottom of the trunk. Cleaned it and re-installed it, no problem... tried to get a tool on the other end where it attaches to the tranny. No way man. I had no tool that would allow me to touch that nut other than with my hand. I'm sure it's accessible but you'll have to take something off I'm sure. I figured it'd be the bumper and valance. I wasn't in the frame of mind to do that so I went on the next project.
My steering wheel had 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play. I took off the knee pad and found the U joint above the ignition was loose. The nut on the bolt needed to be taken up at least 1/2 inch to be tight. There's only about an inch & a half area to get a wrench & ratchet in there and movement of the rachet is only 1 click at a time! Well, I got it and no more play! cool!!! Now I just gotta let the blood drain slowly from my brain after being upside down for so long or else fall over!http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/draai.gif
The little springy thing under the seat made me loose some skin. Man! these have some really tight places. And I managed to get that one taken care of. My seat now reclines like it's supposed to. It's really a nice driver now. Sometiimmes I wann put it on cruz and go to sleep!:o
So... how many other places besides the valves am I gonna find hard to reach. Maybe I should enrole in a Yoga class???http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...boldyellow.gif
bruce

One place
 

I had a hard time taking the rear valence off. There were two bolts on either side closest to the tires that had a nut that needed to be held while you unscrewed the screw. It was just awkward. Another was the left and right emgine mount bolts. Same reason. There is a hexagonal head that you need to hold while you unscrew the nut. PITA, mostly because I didnt know it was there until 20 minutes of twisting went by! My Bad!

4 bolts drop the rear bumper then hit the valance, 15 minutes tops. trying to make fuel connections under the tank, the freaking master cly and getting the two lines in the top of it without leaking.

I agree with Kevin, pulling the master cyl. hoses down into the top of the mc is a *****. Actually anything to do with the master cyl is a *****.

I am dreading ever having to replace or adjust the alternator belt on 914-6. Or, even setting timing is going to be a *****. The idea of cutting an access hole betwen the seats is lookin' better and better.

cutting hole it firewall....
 

the hole in the firewall betweeen the seats is the route I went just today...but then I figured out that every mark on thecrank pulley is duplicated on the flywheel and you can see that easy enough from the enigne compartment.

clr2cont

www.clr2cont.com

... but only if you have the right flywheel. ;) I spent many an hour pondering this when I finished mine: since I had the engine out to begin with, I turned it many times by hand and marked the flywheel accordingly. Now, I'm so thankful!:D

...especially since I seem to have adjusted the valves too loose :mad: ...at least I hope that's what that sound is...

Other hard things to do: putiing in new push/pull switches (fog light, defrost, etc.) or rewiring the steering wheel. Personally, I love the contortions that my car puts me through -- keeps me flexible (important at 43)!

scott

my 2.7
 

I guess my 2.7 has the right flywheel on it then..but I found out he hard way ...cut the hole first...any one know where the number one position on the distributer should be in relation to the engine...right now mine is pointing towards the impeller...dont really thin that is right...


clr2cont

www.clr2cont.com

When I attached my flywheel, the marks were about 4cm off compared to the marks on the crank pully ...and, since the flywheel only goes on one way, I marked it again.

On mine, #1 on the distributer is pointing just past the fan towards the front of the car... here's a pic from the PP website (the fan is almost dirctly in line with the clip on the top there....) http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...just_pic16.jpg

to see the larger picture, check out the whole article... http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_valve_adjust/911_valve_adjust.htm

As scg indicated by virtue of his posted pic, the rotor should point at the notch in the dizzy housing. Where that notch is in relation to the engine will vary depending on how much advance or retard you have timed in. But for the most part, mine points to around 11:00 (give or take) when viewed from the rear of the car.

Replacing and subsequently tightening the alternator belt on a 914/6 really isn't that hard. It's just a PITA doing it two and three times until you get the tension right. The factory tool to hold the impeller pulley comes in handy.

Back to the master cylinder issue: I have found that it is easiest to install the "corks" from the reservoir in the master cylinder before bolting it in place. Allows use of a both hands (or suitable tool) to force them into their bores.

SGC,
Flexible at 43.
Just think what you'll be
When you reach my age at 53!http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/kao14.gif

Gotta go under the dash?
Meet the door sill wit me-ass.
Turn me head to the left,http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/sad2.gif
Under the wheel I do flex.

Put me feet
On the seat,
Get me back on the floor.
Rest me head on the peddals.....
Help! been here too long can't move no more!!!:eek:
(wished I was 43 or 33 or.....)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/sad2.gif
SmileWavy