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Join Date: May 2002
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It's painted...again!

AS some of you know I painted my 914 last weekend and was not happy with the color or job. So I re-prepped it and painted it again this weekend. I'm now happy. I don't know if my wife will ever forgive me, but the car looks pretty good! I'll paint the hoods tonight, I ran out of clearcoat on Saturday...daaaahhh!

Randy
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Old 09-23-2002, 05:48 AM
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No comments? Good bad or indiffernt? Yes it is a slope nose, and yes I did it!
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Old 09-23-2002, 08:28 AM
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hey it looks good to me. is this your first car to paint? how was it painting in your garage?
Old 09-23-2002, 08:36 AM
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Yes it's my first paint job. The garage works fine, but requires a lot of prep. My garage is setup well for paint. I line the walls with plastic from ceiling to floor, then put a box fan in one of my personel doors and seal all around it with plastic, then open another personel door that is out side of the "plastic booth" I have created then cut a hole in the plastic and put a filter in the hole. Make sure you wet the floor down and go to town. The rule of thumb is the fan should be able to clear the room of paint in 3-5 minutes. Painting is not for the faint of heart or for someone in a hurry. Be prepared to do some parts more than once and be patient. The good thing is that if you screw up your only time and sand paper away from fixing it and trying again!

Randy
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2011 Chevy Silverado (The Hauler)
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Old 09-23-2002, 09:10 AM
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Very nice job! What type paint did you use (Lacquer, acrylic enamel)?
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Old 09-23-2002, 09:21 AM
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To all home garage paint room operators, please be very careful when spraying flammable materials in confined spaces without adequate ventilation. What is adequate ventilation? Enough outside air to keep the vapor content in the air below the lower flammable limit (LFL) of the material you're spraying. I'm not a painter, so I can't give specific advice, but if the amount of thinner or carrier in the air exceeds the LFL you may have a serious problem, meaning fire or explosion.

I know of a tragic accident that occurred in a new never used paint spray facility designed to provide filtered supply and exhaust air while painting military vehicles. To protect the walls and floors from paint spray two base personnel were spraying the room some sort of removable plastic film. Without ventilation. The ventilation system, designed to comply with commercial paint spray room standards, was not on. They may have thought the spray room ventilation system would take away the coating they were spraying. They were using airless household sprayers which were located within the space. Apparently when the vapor level reached the flammable limit the motors or some other ignition sourch in the sprayers ignited the vapor and an explosion occurred. Both men were severely burned and died shortly afterwards.

As I said, I cannot give specific guidelines, but be careful. I know people who have painted in their garages as was described in the above post, and had no problems, but it would not hurt to find out about the paint materials you are using to determine the hazards you are facing.

Mike
Old 09-23-2002, 11:56 AM
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that's why I chickened out when I thought about doing this before. my living space is directly above my garage, no good way to ventilate. read some info on ISO's, can be deadly.

randy, did you use a fresh air system when painting?
Old 09-23-2002, 12:13 PM
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Another illustration of why it's a Bad Idea to paint in a garage that has a heater (hot water or air heater for the house, etc.) in it. Flammable sprays + pilot light == major unhappiness...

--DD
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Old 09-23-2002, 02:15 PM
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I was thinking about repainting myself. My problem is no garage. I was going to buld a frame around the car, cover with plastic and paint each section at a time ( hood, fender ect.) Does this sound sane? Also what type of paint should be used?
Old 09-23-2002, 03:58 PM
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I painted my car once in a outside visqueen (plastic) paint booth. One thing to be careful of is the heat inside the paint booth. Don't set it up in the direct sunlight and spray it at 12:00 noon on Sunday. It gets too hot, like a green house and the paint won't flow out on the car. I should know, I spent hours sanding off my first paint job.
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Old 09-23-2002, 05:38 PM
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How much did it cost you? In total? I need to repaint my orange teener.
Old 09-23-2002, 05:57 PM
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If you can follow my earlier post, I basically had built a plastic box inside my garage. The fumes never came near anything accept me and the car. Even the compressor was out side the box. I vented the fumes and overspray out with a box fan, I guess you can consider it a fresh air system. I tried the paint booth that you make out side and it got to hot.I also agree that extreme caution should be used, each and every garage is different. The isocyanates can kill you, they crystalize in your lungs and can not be coughed out. Use a resperator that filters Iso's.

I have used Dupont and PPG paint. I prefer the PPG/DBC IMHO it is superior in adhesion and coverage. It is an Acrylic Basecoat. I like the Dupont Nason CLearcoat because I have good luck with it. The PPG clear is supposed to be very good. As far as cost, auto paint is not cheap. PPG sells a brand of bc/cc that goes by OMNI, it is approximately $120 per gallon for the paint and reducer. The clearcoat and activator is about the same. The PPG DBC paint vairies from $250.00 on up to the thousands. My gallon of yellow was $300.00 plus $60 for the reducer. The Omni paint has a reputation for not covering well thus requiring extra coats. I've heard as many as 8 coats of base for good coverage. Some people swear by it. The PPG DBC required three coats to cover over grey primer. I have approximatly $600.00 in materials, that includes paint, primer, sand paper and thinner. Remember, I painted this car twice, that approximation does not include my second color of paint.

My opinion is if you have the proper space and equipment you can paint your own car. It IS NOT easy!! For an example while painting my hoods last night the second coat of base mysteriously started to lift (wrinkle). I think that it was do to cooler temps outside but who knows. This little incident will cost me the time and effort to resand both hoods with 180/220 grit paper down to the primer then reprime and sand that with 400. Then clean and repaint and hope it does not lift again. It takes patients and pesistence. There are forums that can help answer questions about painting.
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index
I would be glad to answer any other questions about my experiences. Painting can be rewarding and frustrating in the same day.
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Old 09-24-2002, 03:18 AM
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Randy,

Car looks great! I remember seeing that car at Fred's back around Easter and thought it had serious potential (I like the slope nose). It should look pretty slick when it's all done.

I painted my old RX-7 in the garage at home with almost the same setup you have (plastic drapes, exhaust fans, etc.) and never had a problem with severe buildup of fumes, or any other worries. The car came out pretty good, but I did single stage acrylic urethane. Worked well, and after a quick color sanding and buff looked nearly professional. I was VERY pleased.

I've got four projects right now I plan on painting myself, and have decided to upgrade to a good HVLP gun. Cuts down on the fumes tremendously, and really does wonders for paint coverage and minimal waste. Didn't see what gun you used mentioned.

Good luck,

G
Old 09-24-2002, 04:06 AM
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Thanks! I've heard good and bad about HVLP. A friend that I consider a good painter won't use them. He has tried them and says that it would take to much time for him to re-learn how to spray with it. I've heard that they can do a great job but you should do a couple of test sprays first. I use an inexpensive (read cheap) Astro Star gravity gun. It actually has a reputation for being a under $100 gun that can spray like the the $400 dollar guns. It works well for me. I may eventually buy a "good" gun and use this one for primer. I also my never paint again unless I build a new seperate building (which is in the works) because my wife was not happy with me about using the garage as a paint booth. She may change her mind since I power washed the floor off and there is no residual effect left from this attempt. Isn't mairrage fun!

Randy
P.S. I may drag another 914 home from Fred and make it into a track car. He wants to make it a joint effort.
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Old 09-24-2002, 04:27 AM
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Nice job guys. I am planning to do so, but ill have the shop do the paint. But id like to do the basic prep myself. Means strip the car, baresand it, fix rust spots by welding, grinding, leadfilling and bondoing then ship it to the shop.

What is the easiest way to paint strip the whole car???? Chemically or sandblast?

Thanks for helping.
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Old 09-24-2002, 03:49 PM
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you don't really want to "sandblast" the body. maybe some other type of media, but it makes a mess. you better have the car stripped to an absolute bare chassis and preferably on a rotisserie so you can spin all the extra sand/media out of all the hidden places when you're done.
Old 09-24-2002, 04:11 PM
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A couple of people I know have said that it doesn't matter what you do to get the media out--you won't get it all. For years, you'll be driving down the road, take a turn, and you'll hear the skittering of sand/whatever...

--DD
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Old 09-24-2002, 08:26 PM
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I had portions of my Karmann Ghia blasted, I was vacuming up sand in my interior for a year after it was done. It was on everything. Why do you feel the need to totally strip the car. Unless you have layers of different old paint then you can use a DA sander with 80 grit to take it down. You can use stripper on the door jams and places that are hard to sand. Even if you have multiple layers, the DA will take it off. Just don't stay in one place while sanding. Most blasting will cause panel warpage due to the heat. I've heard that bead blasting is pretty good, but it should be done by a professional. JMHO

Randy
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Old 09-25-2002, 02:56 AM
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