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74gokart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: nashville,tn
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Buying a rust repaired car.

I am doing a long distance inquiry on a car that has had the rust repaired in the rockers and both trunks. The owner has all service records, the car is garaged...seems to be a good car, but I would like to have more info. before moving on to a PPI. What questions should I be asking about the repairs?
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Old 09-24-2002, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Agoura, CA
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The trunk metal is almost never an issue; it's a very common problem and not a structural (or conspicuously visible) area. If the car has a rear swaybar, you'd want to make sure the mount areas for that are solid.

The rockers/longs are a different story. Personally I would strongly lean towards a car that hadn't needed or had repairs like that. There are lots of minimal-rust cars in the West/SW states. If you are otherwise pretty 'sold' on this particular car, make sure you get a lot of pics, receipts and assurances that the rustwork was done correctly. You sure don't want a car with sagging or cracking longs...the whole car can literally bust in half.
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Old 09-24-2002, 12:16 PM
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stay clear. why buy it when there are plenty of ones that don't have the repair, or need it. if it was bad enough to replace part of the longitudinal, there will always be more rust that was "missed". the car I am cutting up now had perfect longitudinals, but had battery area and lower firewall rust on the right side. I cut a cross section of the left and right longitudinals and saw the left was perfect. the right however, even though it looked great, had rust on the inside. this is from a car which appeared to be great in that area. think how bad a car is that is known to have had serious damage there. run.
Old 09-24-2002, 12:38 PM
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I have a '74, so I am familiar with 914 cancer. The car I am inquiring about is a '74 LE, and would be a better base for what I want my car to be. I am not really "sold" on the car, but I do think that it is worth looking at IF the repairs were done correctly. I would rather not pay a shop to tell me about problems that I could have found out about by asking the owner. A PPI is mandatory, but I would really like to make sure I have a good candidate before moving on to that. I have read posts on rust repair here, but how do you tell if it was done correctly?
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Old 09-24-2002, 01:34 PM
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well checking how the doors close will give an idea if things were in alignment when the structural areas were cut out and replaced. you could also have the chassis checked for straightness at a body shop. I wouldn't worry about the trunks as long as it is cosmetically ok looking for you.
Old 09-24-2002, 01:38 PM
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derek_sf, please E-mail me about triangle glass. Ravedaveblackburn@hotmail.com
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Old 09-24-2002, 01:46 PM
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I emailed you yesterday and again today, we seem to have a communication break somewhere along the line.
Old 09-24-2002, 02:11 PM
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Done correctly? For one man, correct is one thing, to another, well, another thing. Was it stripped to nothing and taken apart, sandblasted or dipped? For some, this is *correctly.* Any partial repair is a partial repair. I spent two months playing the rust game on mine. Rust conveters, sandblasting, cutting and replacing, POR15, the works. I can teel you it is not done *correctly.* But, with a full roll cage and chasis stiffening kit, it is solid enough for me.

The patch work necesary and the stiffening kit are ugly. Industrial strength ugly. Correctly to me would be that you would never know that is was repaired by looking. But, I will admit that nice MIG welds will probably have to done instead of just spot welds. So, I just contradicted myself.
Old 09-24-2002, 02:30 PM
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Garage
It would be a good sign if the Brad Mayeur longitudinal repiar kit, which ties into the rear suspension, was installed. Brad sells it directly as does (I think?) Pelican and others. Everybody I know who has used this kit loves it. Some install it on structurally sound cars just for the extra stiffness.

See this section of Lawrence's excellent 914 web site for more info: http://www.highway914.net/tech/long/long1.html
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Old 09-24-2002, 05:39 PM
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It better be really cheap. That'sa lot of rust repair. (check my profile) specially if your traveling a long way to get it or having it shipped. You better get a hold of Brad (B)or Mike Z. or someone first and see what's available on the gold coast. Why buy a rust bucket if you don't have to.
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Last edited by rich; 09-24-2002 at 06:54 PM..
Old 09-24-2002, 06:49 PM
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Brad Roberts's Avatar
 
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1974 Go kart,

be very very careful, there is a well known "George Hussey" in your state that "builds" 1974 LE's from 1974 2.0 cars. The numbers where semi flaky from Porsche.. so...

B
Old 09-24-2002, 09:32 PM
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Brad,
Thanks for the warning, but I have been reading a few boards over the past few years. I have read the stories. I have seen the price$ on their site for cars that I don't think are nicer than my parts car. This car is actually far north of GA.
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Old 09-24-2002, 11:21 PM
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74.

If you remotely think you want a car from here... I have another 914 from here going to a person in Nashville very soon.

You two might get some kind of break on the transport of the cars (if you find one you like here in NorCal)

73 and 74 decent 2.0's factory injected can be had here for 3500-5500 all day.

B
Old 09-24-2002, 11:27 PM
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I wasnt clear.... in the post above your last one.

There is a person in TN who "builds" 74 LE's from regular 74 2.0 cars.

I had 2-3 914 customers in Texas who had purchased LE cars from people on the east coast only later to find out they where NOT LE's. After a year or so of back tracking owners... one person was the common doniminator. He is in TN. Buyer beware.

B
Old 09-24-2002, 11:39 PM
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