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randymartin
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
914 2.0 intermittent not starting (hot)

I have a 74 914 2.0. It has had a hot starting problem on and off for 10 years! The car is very cool looking but I have replaced everything imaginable and it still does it. I just bought this hot start relay. I have read here it is difficult to install using the Bosche instructions. Does anyone have inputs?
Old 07-13-2014, 04:38 PM
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John Rogers's Avatar
 
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We need a bit more info: carbs or FI, does it crank or is it dead, stock ignition or after market, where is the fuel pump, what is fuel pressure cold/hot, does it sputter and try to catch and then not start and finally is the spark different cold/hot? If it cranks does it start if you give it a shot of instant start?
Old 07-13-2014, 06:20 PM
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randymartin
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
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The car has stock FI. It will crank almost always when cold (spins very well). everything is stock (however engine was rebuilt with the european pistons and rings). Everything else is stock. When it decides to not start everything else works fine (all electrical), no dimming of lights,ect.. I also put a new ignition switch in and that seemed to take care of thing for about a year, but I'm not convinced that was the reason it stopped temporarily. It has never sputtered or anything. When this thing starts it runs like a bat out of hell. I end up push starting it but I am getting too old for 4 this. I don't know anything about fuel pressure but do not suspect fuel problem. As I said I ordered this hot relay switch. The reviews says it has solved this problem from several users. I hope it it straight forward to install. If this doesn't work I am thinking os having a hot start switch wired directly to the battery. Perhaps someone has user friendly directions to hot start relay installation, or any other ideas.
Thanks
Old 07-14-2014, 10:36 AM
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I would try the following items.
- Pull a spark plug to see what the spark looks like. Should be strong and bright, if not there is the trouble. Read the voltage at the coil when cranking, should be 12 volts or more.
- If the spark is okay, pull an injector to see what the spray pattern looks like when hot and cold. Be very careful and use a large enough container to grab all the spray. - If the spray is fine and well atomized, run a compression test on all cylinders making sure the battery is fully charged, all plugs out and throttle wide open with coil wire pulled.
- Read voltage at the starter when cranking, should be 12 volts.

Since you said you can push it and it starts okay, try the shot of instant start in the air cleaner to see if that fires it up. When my daughter's 2L F.I. did the same thing, the starter was weak and did not spin the engine fast enough to make it fire.
Old 07-14-2014, 11:22 AM
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randymartin
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Since it only happens intermittently I have never been able to test anything when it happens. After this happens, I can shut it off and it will crank every time, till you get somewhere and then..............nothing. Gonna try this hot relay next as the car otherwise runs perfect. I hope that works. I really apreciate the advise. I am honestly considering hooking a hot starter switch and install in the car so I can turn the switch to run and hit a direct hot starter switch. It sounds ugly but I suspect that will end this story.
Old 07-14-2014, 04:47 PM
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Since the problem is a no-crank issue, I doubt that a shot of an "instant start" chemical wittl do much to solve it. BTW, those things are mostly ether, which is really bad for a gasoline engine. The Bosch (note the spelling) hot start kit is easy to install, although it's not the best setup available. The terminal 30 tab goes to the large stud on the starter solenoid (the one with the battery cable), the 87 tab (straight across from the 87) goes to the tab on the starter (the one where the trigger wire is now). One of the other tabs gets a ground wire, and the remaining tab gets the trigger wire you just removed from the solenoid. Be sure to use relatively heavy wire (especially for the 30 and 87 wires) with properly crimped on connectors of the appropriate types. I prefer to use a 6 volt Ford solenoid as a relay. Pretty cheap, has nice mounting tabs, and works when the battery is a little low. Oh, one more thing. You should probably buy a good quality remanufactured starter at the same time. I've had pretty good luck with Bosch new and remanufactured starters over the years, and NO luck at all with starters sourced from FLAPS.

The Cap'n

Last edited by The cap'n; 07-15-2014 at 05:46 PM..
Old 07-15-2014, 05:42 PM
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I'm frankly not clear on exactly what is happening.

What happens (in the "bad state") when you turn the key?
Does the fuel pump buzz? Do the warning lights fade out, or stay on? Does the voltmeter droop or stay at 12V+? Does the starter not crank?

A "no-start" can be a number of things. The engine doesn't crank, or it cranks but never tries to catch, or it cranks and tries to catch but doesn't actually run...

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Old 07-15-2014, 07:59 PM
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Groucho Marxist
 
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When my car had similar symptoms, I put a 911 starter in it and the problem went away
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:41 PM
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