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 Syncing Weber 44's Am putting weber 44's on my 2.0 this week. What are the best ways to sync the carbs. Or what do you think is the best way? Just looking for some input here. I am switching from FI to the carbs. Nobody tee off on me though. It's that or tear apart my engine to put the stock cam back in. So I am switching to the carbs & if I have to rebuild my engine again. I will put a stock grind cam back in & put the 2.0 FI back in it! But  I don't anticipate that happening for quite a while:rolleyes: | 
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 I got a nice little book from CB Performance on setting up Weber carbs. Weber guide It has some good background history and lots of pretty practical advice on using these carbs. | 
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 Here's what I have learned over the years about Webers: Haynes makes a great book for Webers with lots of info/picts/etc. Get one of the sync tools mentioned in the book. While I guess there are those that can adjust them by "ear", I'd recommend against it. Make sure both carbs are set the same BEFORE you put them on. Use some paint or notch the adjusters so you can keep track of # turns. Unhook at least one side when synching the carbs then hook up the linkage when done. Then make sure that the butterflys open fully when the pedal hits the stop on the floor board. Finally set the float to 12mm upper height and 24mm lower height so fuel will not slosh over on hard cornering. Good luck. | 
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 .02 cents more I did as John did and found that the car would shake at 2000 rpms.  Come to find out that synching the carbs at idle was just not accurate enough.  Think there is play in the adjustment ever so slight.   I wedged the throttle at 2000 RPM and found the carbs way out.   Now it is much smoother throughout the RPM range. Idle measurments are perfect too.  Good Luck | 
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 Joe brings up a good point about the slop in the linkage, although I would hope your's is new so there should not be any. I use heim jointed connections instead of the ball/cup joints the factory uses. They seem to last for a lot longer time. Good luck. | 
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 I always do both processes when synching carbs.  First, synching the carbs at idle with the idle stops (linkage disconnected) and then synching the carbs at a higher (2000) RPM to get the linkage right. | 
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 when i finally get my act together i'm going to try jp's method. if i got it right, you only use one of the idle adjust screws. the linkage becomes the adjustment device for the other. the weber book is good, if you follow their procedure number by number it will get you in the ball park. the sync gage with the needle and numbers works better than the one with the ball that goes up and down. the tech article at www.aircooled.net is a good one too. kevin | 
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