Parking brake lever fix

[The Glademister]

The parking brake lever on my '73 914 recently failed due to rust. This is certainly a common problem on poorly maintained 914s. The bottom of the lever is in constant contact with the carpet that captures dirt, moisture, spilled drinks, etc. I pulled the handle out of my '76, doctored it up and then installed that in my '73. Here's a fairly simple fix if your lever has rusted through.

The problem area is where the main parking cable attaches to the lever. Note that the lever is basically a folded piece of sheet metal to form a handle. Where that cable attaches there's a pin that passes through either side. That area is somewhat re-enforced from the factory but is most likely rusty.

To remove the lever start by relaxing the adjusters on the right and left parking brake cables. Those adjusters are at the bottom of the outer firewall on the drivers side. Make sure the handle is in the down position and take the cable ends off the twin hooks inside the drivers compartment next to the lower firewall. Those can be stubborn if corroded but note that the hook part should swivel. I've found the right side cable usually comes off easiest first. Then take the spring end out of the tab over the hooks. That main cable should now be free at the firewall end. Now comes the hard part. You'll have to un-bolt the handle from the side of the long and that 13 mm bolt will probably be rusty. I found it easiest to get a good bite on that with a socket by removing the drivers seat and rails. Perhaps a good soaking with PB Blaster over-night will help. Once you get that bolt out you should be able to wiggle the lever off the fulcrum post. There's a nylon bushing inside the handle and that can have gunk in it so it may take some effort. I also had corrosion in the sheet metal that supports that post on my '76 so I was careful not to rip the post out. The small pin that attaches the main cable to the handle will be completely rusted but you can slide the hook end out through the protective metal cover if you fold everything into smaller "bundle". Or, if all those pieces aren't too rusty, you can dis-assemble those by taking the keeper off the pin on that end and pulling it. Sorry about the lack of photos but this really isn't as hard as it reads. Also, take care of that main brake cable when you're jacking everything around. If you're lucky and it hasn't corroded you can re-use that. If you have to re-place it - that's a $160 cable!

Once you get the handle to your bench, you'll see the problem. My fix is to re-inforce the side that's against the long and carpet.



I started with a construction paper template and then transferred that to a piece of 20g cold rolled sheet metal.



Then cut the sheet metal. Clean the handle and sheet metal with Marine Clean and paint both with weld through primer. Clamp the sheet metal to the lever and begin with tack welds near the pin holes. Work your way up to handle end. I folded the top over the handle a bit to get more strength there. Grind off your beads.



I painted with Rustoleum grey primer and gloss black but some of you may want to use POR 15.



Installation was the reverse of dis-assembly. I used a cap screw instead of the 10 mm bolt and replaced the rusted pin with a 6 mm bolt with nylok nut. Remember to re-adjust your right and left parking brake cables before driving.

[mark 74 carrera]

This project is also in my near future. Doing a clutch adjustment and then getting the brakes functioning is key to Texas safety inspection. Thanks for posting.

Mark