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Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Posts: 601
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Trailing arm r+r. Level of difficulty?
Hey all,
I need to find out the level of difficulty for this job. Could my brother help (no real experience) or should I have a pro (like brad) help? Thanks Korijo |
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11-02-2002, 12:01 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
Posts: 2,502
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This is not too bad of a job. Stright fwd. The only trick is removing the old bushings. Some folks burn out the old bushings; personally, I like the drill method to remove some of the old bushing material followed with silicon spray and lots of muscle. Be sure to hold onto the alignment shims. Hard to find replacements. Also, a good time to replace the rubber brake lines
Another point, the car will need to be aligned afterwards. Corner balance is a good thing too. To avoid aligning the car twice, I recommend doing all the front end work also. This could include front bushings, ball joints, Turbo Tie rods, struts, etc.
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'75 914-6 3.2 (Track Car) '81 SC 3.6 (Beast) '993 Cab (Almost Done Restoring) Last edited by Jim Smolka; 11-03-2002 at 12:33 AM.. |
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11-02-2002, 05:39 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 148
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Does anyone know of an alignment shop in the Mid-West who knows how to perform this kind of alignment..the rear end and corner balance. I live in Columbia, MO (middle of MO) and am willing to drive to any neighboring states to get this done.
If I can't find anybody around here I may have to make a road trip to CA this summer.. SAC |
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11-02-2002, 07:41 AM
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Mike Ginter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Denver CO.
Posts: 564
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I spent a lot of time fighting with rear control arm bushings. In the end I learned I should have used the press in the first place. It doesn't require anything fancy. I ended up using a buddies $99 Harbor Freight "automotive shop press". Works equally well for installing them.
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Ginter's 914 stuff |
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11-02-2002, 07:43 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 518
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it's not a hard job. I burned my bushings out without any problems using a plumbers hand torch with the hotter tip on it. be prepared for a smelly mess though if you go this route.
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11-02-2002, 08:18 AM
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Mike Ginter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Denver CO.
Posts: 564
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They don't all burn out easily. I used MAPP gas on mine and they still wouldn't come out.
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Ginter's 914 stuff |
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11-02-2002, 02:17 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 518
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it takes some work heating them. get them really hot and then puncture a hole in the bushing with a screwdriver. not sure what that does exactly, but after that they came out easy.
BTW...I think the key is the torch with the hotter tip. |
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11-02-2002, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,840
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Press.
Takes me 15 minutes per control arm. Korijo, find a shop close by and buddy up with the owner. Life with a 914 will be much easier. B |
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11-02-2002, 09:06 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 175
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Glad I found this thread, rather than start another one.
Half my questions are answered. I've never had a trailing arm completely off. When powdercoating the trailing arm, any areas to definately avoid? -Rusty |
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11-12-2002, 10:10 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,840
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Avoid getting powder on:
The inside area where the bushings will go The inside area for the rear wheel bearing put bolts in every threaded hole in the control arm. You dont want to chase threads for 3 hours trying to get powder out of them. B |
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11-12-2002, 10:16 AM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Vancouver,Wa.
Posts: 4,457
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I would avoid the surface that the caliper mounts on, also.
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JPIII Early Boxster |
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11-12-2002, 11:49 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 175
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Thank you for the replies!
 -Rusty |
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11-12-2002, 12:13 PM
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Mike Ginter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Denver CO.
Posts: 564
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Brad's list is right on. I didn't tape off the caliper mounting surface. I used a scotchbrite disc on the die grinder after coating. Worked great.
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Ginter's 914 stuff |
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11-12-2002, 04:45 PM
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