914 Pics

[Tom Perso]

Here are some pics of the 71 914 shell that I looked at. It's pretty solid other than the areas shown in the pics.

http://www.qtm.net/~persot/914/

The battery tray and suspension pickup points are really solid. They got the screwdriver test and passed very well.

It's a shell, but I think it would make a good start.

The guy wants $600 for it, does that sound like a good deal?

Also, there is a 73 914 2.0L in those pics that has a bit of cancer, the 2.0L motor is still in it, the intakes are full of water... Sigh...

Later,
Tom

[Brad Roberts]

Run.

I guess it depends on where you are and what you plan to do.

Oh.. quick question:

What happened to that WebCam ?? did you run synthetic oil ??

B

[Tom Perso]

Brad, I intend on dropping in the 2270 and going racing and ax events.

I have a daily driver already, so this is strickly "fun" car.

Stripped interior is fine by me, having the car one solid color would be OK as well... But it has to be solid.

But, I want it done MY way, so I think starting with a shell would be a good way to go. I am no hurry with this either, so I am going to make the right (and wise) choice.

re: The Webcam.

I used 30wt. Autozone oil for the first breakin. The problem was the lifters. SCAT usually sells Johnson lifters (same lifters as Webcam), but for $50 cheaper thru SCAT. So, my supplier supplied the SCAT ones. Unknown to me (I had never seen a Johnson lifter before), SCAT probably ran out of the Johnson lifters and repackaged some Eaton 2-piece ones and sold them as so.

Guess what happens when a 163b/86c and Eaton lifters collide? Man, did that suck. It literally took 1/4" off each lifter in less than an hour of running time on the motor.

So, everything came back apart, my supplier gave me a new Webcam, lifters, oil pump, bearings, you name it. I paid for shipping. And it wasn't even his fault but he took care of me and took the hit.

That was John C. from Aircooled.net

So, on the second startup (with good lifters) I ran Shell Rotella T 30wt. oil with a dose of STP oil treatment (per John C.'s request). I guess the higher zinc content in the diesel motor oil helps reduce scuffing on breakin. It seems to work.

Brad, have you seen the videos of my 2270 hard at work? If not, let me know...

Later,
Tom

[derek_sf]

wow a MI 914 graveyard!

I'm with brad, I would pass on that. you'll spend 10x the $600 just getting the body ready.

[John2kx]

I only got to the 4th picture and am with Brad...........run, looks like more rust than what I would be willing to deal with, even for free.

John

[sacook]

Hey Tom,

Mmmmmm $600 there may be some room to bargin there. The body looks like I be a decent project but, it looks pretty picked over. It's missing some expensive stuff, electrical, instrumentation and, a complete interior.

Seen worse made better...just depends how much you have the Bug to make one.

Love the glass top in the 914s_collection pic. How much does he want for that.



Lotta people replying at the same time. Different story if your going racing... I'll also yield to Brad on that.. a lot of rust and it would take a lot to make solid.

note: I have learned to have great respect for John, he is very good to his customers...GREAT Customer Service. Very much like Dave and his Gang

[Brad Roberts]

Tom,

I did see the videos. I'm a ex VW drag racer sooo.. I still have a soft spot for VW's (I speak with RK Smith of Hot Vw's at least once a week)

600$ for that particular chassis is a little high. I really dont know how hard it is to find 914 tubs in your area. If you can NEVER find them..then 600$ may be a smoking deal.

I did the exact same BS with the Webcam and SCAT. I learned to buy it all from WEBCAM if I use their cams.

B

[Tom Perso]

Hmmm, thanks for the advice. I'm still thinking about this. Around the rustbelt, that car is considered "solid". You warm weather folks don't know how easy you've got it...

Plus, being a Bug guy, I've seen my share of rust... LOL.

Keep the comments coming.

Brad,

That VW is going to the track (road and ax) this spring, I'm getting a set of Yoko A008's in good shape for it (on the cheap), I've got all the suspension goodies, plus it's IRS.

I'm not a drag racer here, but I do like to smoke the hides here and there. And it does it soooo easily...

I'm strickly webcam/webcam as well. The cam bug bites hard when it does bite.

Later,
Tom

[kellzey]

Sorry sir... you can do much better. Listen to everyone else's advice and spend $1500 for a decent bodied car that runs like crap, or vice versa.

Good luck!

[Griznant]

Tom,

You trust me, right? We save some pretty big pieces of crap, right? Well, I really think it's going to nickel and dime you to death. I really think you should look for a complete, solid car, and buy that. Sure, it'll be more money up front, but that way you can plug in your engine, and enjoy it while you upgrade, instead of starting from scratch (outside) and try and rebuild it in your free time. If you had more access to a garage and space I could see it, but this is a big project. BIG.

I'd keep looking for something more like an actual car.

Just my thoughts, so do what you want with them.

Later,

G

P.S. Makes my 912 look like the steal of the century!

[Zeke]

By the time I looked at about the 4th pic, I came back to write this: That car is scary. Brad throws away cars 3X that good. Take the $600 and pay for shipping of a rust free car.

[Brad Roberts]

Ha ha.. easy there Milt. I do get "some" hate mail from time to time.

I just gave away a 90% complete running driving 75 1.8 Silver car.

Randy from RoadGlue ended up with it. I also gave away a 71 chassis with a complete cage for free a few months back.

B

[Phoenix-MN]

I looked at the last few pictures, are the flares fg or steel?

[Bleyseng]

I would say to look for a complete car too, that car is missing way too much stuff! Now, if you had a complete nice car that had bad rust you might be able to switch it all over. But if you are going to go to all that much work get a rust free body. Otherwise you are going to fight the rust forever.
There are still lots of 1.7-1.8 cars out there for cheap. You will be waay ahead of the game doing that.
Oh, you want to make it your car...spend $$ on cool stuff like supension upgrades, Konis, 5 bolt Fuchs, 911 front brakes, etc......
Geoff

[1bad914]

In Toms defense, for Michigan that's a solid car. You can do better, but I don't understand one thing, everyone talks about don't touch it if it has rust, it will cost ten times that to fix it. The car I drug home looked worse than that, and I have restored it to a respectable car for very little. If you do the work yourself it can be done for a lot less. IMHO it comes down to how much effort you want to put into it. Sorry to get on my soap box but I get a little tired of hearing run it looks yucky! You should see some of the crap us rust belt types drag home and make into respectable show winning cars. It just takes time and effort and a love for the hobby. Sorry Tom for stepping on your post I just felt like venting. Will this car take work, heck yes, but if you are willing the end product will put a smile on your face! A lot bigger smile than if you pay someone to do the work for you! Hey this venting stuff is good for the stress levels Tom, you do whatever will make you happy! We can always go look at the other cars I talked about!

Randy

[Phoenix-MN]

Tom,
Us upper mid-western type go for punishment, I too brought home a car that some would call a "basket case" but as others have said if you can do most of the work your self then things are not all that bad. It's a hobby, and somrtimes a "Black Hole" but who cares as long as you have fun with it. Follow my link to my 914 project
phoenixhobbies.com
Paul

[9fourteen]

I'm by no means an expert on 914's but I would keep looking. I paid $1000 for mine and it was nearly 100% original/complete, has rust but not nearly as much as that one, the guy threw in a couple boxes of parts, and I drove it home.

[74914]

Tom,
I’m presently fixing the rust on mine. Double the rust that you see…the more you fix it, the more you’ll find. You may already know this and are prepared (mentally and skillfully), but I wasn’t. Mine’s not as bad as this one. Are those holes in the shelf/frame, under the battery tray? Take an ice pick to it. Does it pass the big butt test? Also, take a look (ice pick) under the passenger rocker covers around the jack post tube and the upward bend in the frame towards the trailing arm mount. Just my thoughts, but if it were me, and I had the time, and I know what I know now, I’d spend $600-1000 (inc. shipping) and find a cheap (maybe free), way less rusty chassis from Brad or someone out West.
I also just bought (yes, now I’m bragging) a running ’70 with not as bad internal rust, no body panel rust, straight and unhit, for $400. Doesn’t sag, was gonna use it to part out but may keep it to drive cause it taking so friggin long to fix the rust in the first one.
Just my thoughts (notice I didn’t say run)
Ed

[alphacrimedog]

Of course I dont live in MI, but I bought a 1972 1.7 , 1 owner with title and maintinance paperwork for $500. It has 5 alloys, perfect seats and backpad and only 1 small crack in the dashpad. The carpet sucks and the battery tray needs replacing But it was all there. The underside of the trunks look like new as do the rubber seals. You might have to be patient and look but I'm sure that the guys on here will certainly help. I wanted one bad, but it paid(and i paid a lot less) to take my time. I figure that I am way ahead of the game. I have to do some work to the gas lines before I know if the motor will turn over, but if it doesnt, I can replace the motor for a lot less that I can repair sheet metal.

[scg]

Seeing other cars from the same era "up that way" on a trip last summer, it looks good... but I'd shop around ("DAd, why don't we see any old Subarus like ours around here...?") But hey, get a Pell Grant, buy the thing, and fix it up. It sure beats the heck out of getting a stereo.

Brad Said: I just gave away a 90% complete running driving 75 1.8 Silver car.
I also gave away a 71 chassis with a complete cage for free a few months back.

Ack! Honey! Get the kids packed! You're goin' to Disneyland (I'm going to Brads! What? I can't have another 914? Damn. Never mind.)