Flares or no?

[adamk29]

Here is one nobody talks about...
Since my car needs repaint, I am thinking about adding flares and then wider wheels/tires. Are the fiberglass flares just crap, hence the price difference? Do they damage any stiffness or something you wouldn't think about? Would like to hear about experiences with the fiberglass kits.

[Rich Hilgersom]

Well this one is certainly talked about enough.. here is your first reply of many to follow I am sure ;-)
- The fiberglass ones will crack and the seam closest to the windshield, the steel ones will not.
- The fiberglass ones will show, upon close inspection of the paint, not to match the rest of the body. Check any corvette to see what I mean.
- If you still insist on going fiberglass coat the underside with a great deal of undercoating to prevent a rock dinging the inside and creating a dimple on the top.

[John Rogers]

At a recent race there were several 914s that had the flares attached with screws, such as the flares on the factory GT2 race cars. The owners had trimmed the steel fenders so there was plenty of tire clearance, rounded the edge and then put the flares over the opening. The advantage was easy replacement since they tended to get broken/cracked in the races and they had several spare flares ready to put on, already painted. Kind of gave the car a GT2 look?

[This message has been edited by john rogers (edited 08-10-1999).]

[S Schroeder]

I have been in the flare quandry for a while. Every car I have seen with fiberglass flares has cracked. About two weeks ago I was on a fishing trip and on a muddy back country road my pickup slipped into a tree breaking one of the aftermarket flares. I purchased the truck used and the flares were already installed. Upon my return I went to a local off road shop to get a replacement. The brand is Bushwacker and they refer to them as cut out flares as they require removing approx 2" of the factory steel fender. As I was wrapping up my wopping 45min install, I noticed that the way they attatched looked very similar to the GT 911's mentioned above, using exposed "buttons" with a nicely finished recess. I fired off a letter to Bushwacker the following monday explaining my take on the fiberglass issues and the price of steel along with multiple pictures of flared and non-flared 914's, a 911 with the GT bolt on flares, pictures of what the flares look like prior to being installed and how much material had to be removed to install them.Ihave yet to receive a response. All I know is that the replacement flare for my truck cost $54 and took zero time to install. It seems unreasonable to not have better options and pricing without the fear of ruining new paint jobs when there are so many body kit manufacturers out there. Zender, Kamei, BBS all make multiple styles for cars that are just as "obscure" as our 914's. Heck, a narrow body to turbo style 911 kit can be had for similar dollars and includes rockers, bumper extensions - the works! Save your money and buy steel, the potential hassel of the fiberglass isn't worth it. I'll keep the forum posted if I hear anything back on my letter.
My $.02.
Scott S

[Joe Bob]

My $.02.

I inherited the biggest piece of c**p 914 about five years ago. It had a bolt on f/g kit including the 916 fenders and a "mickey mouse" wing. The only thing I kept was the fenders. The only reason being the p/o cut out the stock fenders.

I took it to a Corvette experienced body shop and they molded them in. I have beat the hell out the car since, and no cracks. It has a 220 hp 911 motor and I have regularly autocrossed it for the last four seasons.

Of course your results may differ. I am a firm believer of f/g. Especially since the price and availability of steel flares is out this world. Just ask AA, they still are taking orders but no product....

[This message has been edited by mikez (edited 08-10-1999).]

[John Rogers]

Here's another thought and it is what was done to our race car. The front and rear fender lips were stretched by using a hammer and dolly. It is not as wide as flares, but you can get some pretty good sized slicks (9 inch x 15 inch dia) in the wheel wells and it is hard to tell it was done unless there is another stock fendered 914 next to it.

[rich]

I agree with Mikez. Using proper methods fiberglass bonds to steel just fine. 3 years and no cracks. BTW thats 3 summers and two below zero winters. The car is stored out side with no cover. I remove the snow when it gets over a foot high with a shop broom, then on the next sunny day I slide off the sheets of ice that form under the snow. I don't recomend a dark color. The biggest minus with glass is it is never stable. I used a thermo reactor after each layer of glass and I still had product dry down. I attribute the problem in part to my choice of color. Black cars and fresh fiber glass don't mix. If you decide to go with glass flares let me know. I think I have a few do's and don'ts tips I can offer.

[This message has been edited by rich (edited 08-14-1999).]

[Wayne 962]

Rich, and everyone else who has done the fiberglass flares:

How about we culiminate everyone's expertise into a tech article? Email me your tips and procedures, and I will post them as a conglomerate on the site?

Lemme know,

Wayne

[adamk29]

Thanks everybody!
But, I think I might pass on the flares all together. Dr. Nugent tells me I can get 8" 205/50s under the stock flares.

Also, (just in case) does anybody know where to get the stock panels flared? - you'll notice a few of those in the pictures on this site from July. Is this a cheaper alternative, or just an option?

Thanks for all the replies!
--adam

[adamk29]

Thanks everybody!
But, I think I might pass on the flares all together. Dr. Nugent tells me I can get 8" 205/50s under the stock flares.

Also, (just in case) does anybody know where to get the stock panels flared? - you'll notice a few of those in the pictures on this site from July. Is this a cheaper alternative, or just an option?

Thanks for all the replies!
--adam