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Join Date: Oct 2001
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Rats I did it again

Or at least I think I did something. Yesterday Took the car up to the hobby shop and repaired the passenger jack socket.
Car ran great averaged 75 to 80 MPH. Head temps just over 310. So after we were done MIG welding we hit the road to go home. Car still ran great but now started heating up to 400 - 425 we slowed and nursed it at arond 65 70 MPH runnig 375 or so. Now car runs around town at 350 sometimes more.
What could I have done??? I disconnected the negative lead to the battery while welding the guy said to.
2.0L 40IDF Petronics & flame thrower coil.
Old 01-05-2003, 03:01 PM
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Look to see if anything fell into the fan, like a rag, piece of paper, plastic etc.
That's the first place to start...
Geoff
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:22 PM
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Ya I know

I have done all the easy checks such as what you mentioned Geoff, to include clear fan blades, operational flaps visually verified that the passenger side metal moves with the shaft.
Timing is spot on ( as I said it runs great).
So what is too Hot anyway?
I guess I could loosen up the cylinder tin and peer inside. (oh the madness of that proposition.
Old 01-05-2003, 03:34 PM
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400 is really getting warm...410 and things start to happen...find out why it is getting hot before you drop a seat..
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:59 PM
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Did you remove the leads to the battery before you starting welding? Are you running electronic ignition or optical distributor?
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Old 01-05-2003, 04:52 PM
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Yes, negative lead before welding. Petronics is just a substitute for points right? Why do you ask? Runs strong. Everything that I can see with mirrors under, in, around. All look clear as far as cooling tin and fan are concerned. Pulled the plugs look alittle on the lean side. I will rig a Fuel/Air meter tomorrow, shoulda done this along time ago. All idle jets are clear.
Old 01-05-2003, 05:45 PM
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Sounds right..I was reading in my Mallory users guide that electrical welding can screw up the internals if you don't disconnect the battery.

I know you wern't anywhere near it but what about flapper thermostat and linkage? Maybe it coincidently went bad or became loose.
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When I had my boat I used to throw 50 dollar bill at it when ever I went to the dock...now I do it when ever I open the garage door.
Old 01-06-2003, 03:28 AM
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I'm going on a limb

Yes I did check the flapper linkage, cable and bellows all work good when engine is warmed up the flaps ae wide open.
Something I just remembered, but is reaching. the other day we switched out the 55 idle jets (somehow one of them came up missing) Ya know that motor will actually run with three jets and just the holder plug in one hole? Well I decided to go down to the set of 50 jets. Car ran great temps were 300 no more black soot etc.
Got my son changing to the 60 jets to see what will happen. Put a single 55 on order today.
Old 01-06-2003, 02:02 PM
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Well that didn't help

But I did trip over what caused this. At least it is something I can nail down. That dumb A$$ fuel pressure regulator stopped flowing gas. I noticed it looking down the carb and didn't see any gas come out of the accelerator nozzle. WTF so I pulled the fuel line off the carb and cycled the pump. Sure enough no gas. Gave it a whack, twist, and cuss job. started to flow....
So I guess that is why it got hot running down the highway.

Question why is this affecting it runnig warmer than normal
now???? I guess if I damaged something it will rear it's ugly head soon.
Old 01-06-2003, 05:11 PM
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check that the mps still holds vacuum causing it to run leaner.
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Old 01-07-2003, 11:50 AM
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oops, scratch the last post if you have carbs
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Old 01-07-2003, 11:52 AM
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