![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Posts: 601
|
Wrist pin/piston revoval
After removing the spring clips, does the wrist pin slide out very easily? Or does it require brute force?
Thanks, ![]() ![]()
__________________
Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L (2L /4 back in progress) 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.8L The Van ™ 914club.com Member #914 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Tap it out lightly using a 1/2" extension as a drift. Put the round side against the wrist pin. Support the rod as you tap with the hammer. You don't want to bend/damage the rod by hitting hard. Tap it though just far enough so you can take the piston off the rod.
Geoff
__________________
76 914 2.0L Nepal Orange (2056 w/Djet FI, Raby Cam, 9to1 compression) www.914Club.com My Gallery Page |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Snoqualmie, WA
Posts: 601
|
Geoff (or anyone),
Can the case come fully apart w/ the pistons still connected to the rods? Its quite hard, believe me, we tried. Bear with me, this is my first complete tear down of a t4.... & I'm only watching..
__________________
Dave Korijo 73 Olympic Blue 914 1.7L (2L /4 back in progress) 69 Highlander Bug 1776 93 GL EV 2.8L The Van ™ 914club.com Member #914 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,396
|
No. The pistons will hit the main bearing saddles in the case.
The pistons are not too hard to remove. When clean they are a slip fit, but caked oil forms a ring between the rod and the piston on the wrist pin. It takes a light tapping of the pin with a hammer to push the pin out. You also need to pay attention to which way the pin should come out to avoid the case and other pistons. Turn the crank so the piston you are working on is all the way out and make sure there is a clear path for the pin before you start driving it out. You only have to go till it comes off the rod, not all the way out. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Couple of sugestions...you can heat with a torch or heat gun the piston. it will expand at a rate faster that the wristpin and may help your effort. second. the reason they can be stuborn is that that over time the wrist pin will beat against the circle clip causeing the groove to burr up slightly. I think this is caused by excessive crankshaft end play...Or just hard driveing causing the thrust.
Test, if the pin moves freely between the circle/snap ring clips then the problem is the burr at the keeper groove. Yes, you can keep tapping a punch through the burr. Again the heat will help.
__________________
Scott 1982 911 SC 1962 sunroof bug 1991 WE Vanagon CARAT WRX conversion |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,396
|
Good points, Scott.
|
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Theodore, AL, USA
Posts: 216
|
I had the same problem and hated the thought of beating sideways on the rod. Heated the piston, supported the piston with a block and used a small hammer.
I put the pins in the freezer and the pistons in the oven prior to reassembly. You could also try por-15 on them....... |
||
![]() |
|