Just bought long stored 914..thoughts on next step
 

Thanks in advance for any help on this....Just bought a 1970 with a transplanted 2 litre motor. Bought from Porsche guy with a dozen cars, owned this 25 years but has not been on road in 10 or so....car has been covered, on rolling dollies in climate and humidity controlled garage. Car solid and virtually no rust, when taken off dollies rolled freely so brakes not seized. I a flatbedding car to my garage and looking for suggestions on bringing it back to live. Based on past experiences with Harleys and TVR's I a planning the following but realize I am going to be missing a bunch so all help appreciated....
-car has front trunk mounted fuel pump so plan to remove line and drain all fuel.
-plan to remove all visible fuel lines with new ones...any "HIDDEN" ones I need to know about?
-Marvel Mystery oil or WD 40 in cylinders to see if they are free
-drain brake fluid and replace lines with new lines and fluids. As it rolls freely assume calipers fine, will inspect rotors
-check timing and all visible lines.

Ok so what am I missing?? :-) I have owned 2 other Porsches but both water cooled and newer (996 and 951) so the older air cooled a new experience. Again thanks in advance for any help or ideas

Posting pics of the car

^^^^^^

This:)SmileWavy

Inspect for rust, remove the front turn signals, remove rocker covers, stick an inspection mirror down in the hell hole.

Take photographs prior to pulling off the vacuum hoses and fuel lines

Drain and fill transaxle, remove fill plug first when you do this chore. Clean up the grounds, there are a few of them.

True enough...promise to post some pics when I figure out how to attach them:-) Hopefully this worked...

Tks for the feedback Tobra, will add those to the list....master cylinder is sticking when pedal pushed and releases pressure after a bit so that will be first job it appears :-)
Tks again for the helphttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506296852.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506296852.JPG

That looks really nice from where I'm sittinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Thanks Steve....finally getting a chance to spend some time on the car getting to know what I have a bit more. Can anyone suggest the best place for the 4 jack stands and the best jacking points front and rear to get it up there. Tks again for the help so far and any and all info appreciated! Also any ideas what these wheels might be? I really like the look (admit would love Fuchs) but clearly not original 914 wheels

This will school you up on a lot of stuff

I like using the regular jacking point with a floor jack and
this thing Jack stands on the sides under the door sill. I have little rubber hats on the jack stands to protect the car. You can also jack front and rear, rear under engine bar, front in the middle, using piece of wood to spread the load.

Thanks Tobra appreciate that, have been trying to work my way through it and my laundry list of things that keep coming to mind...:-) Like finding fuel pump, figure out why brakes are sticking on if press pedal but release an hour or two later lol.....
Tks for this info will get it up in air and start to deal with some of the list......

Sticking brakes are brakes that need to be rebuilt. PMB Performance are the people to go to for those.

--DD

Enjoy the car. I have a 73 and love it. Plenty fast enough, super easy to maintain, and has the complexity of a lawn mower...

Super car...

Read up on replacing the Master cylinder, the lines from the reservoir can be at PITA to get back into place. Also check Tangerine racing for a full kit of stainless fuel lines.

Thanks guys, definitely want to get the old brake fluid out of the system and see if I can check condition of the Master and replace the lines for sure....will check out Tangerine for lines. Is it worth rebuilding the master with a kit or best to start fresh? Thinking the old fluid has just gummed it all up

Replace the fuel line in the tunnel and all fuel lines for that matter.

Tks Sixbanger, likely good insurance...just found a fuel line diagraham and looks like a few to change....also looks like my fuel pump is in front trunk next to the spare tire with an octopus of lines to deal with as well.....Draining fuel shouldnt be to bad but any suggestions on how to ensure the FI is clear? Tks again for any help on these issues

Just replace it. The insides can corrode after years of neglect.

--DD

I have seen it stick like that from bad brake hoses too.

Brakes are definitely going to be first look followed bu fuel lines.....still looking for advise on how to make sure FI is clean....
Other issue is tires...ones on car are OLD :-) The car has really nice 15 inch Ronal rims that I want to keep as like look ...problem is the ET25 offset which limits tire width. Presently car has 165/65R18 on it and and while no clearance issues at rear, there would be with wider rubber. Seems to be limited tire choices in 15 inch and especially hard to avoid ending up with really short diameters....any suggestions appreciated

I think those are VW off set wheels, which will maybe limit how wide you can go. There were some choices in 185-60 and 195-60, but they look pretty limited now. Maybe 195-55

Yea lots of room at the front, could throw 205's on there! But not sure I can go much wider than the 165's at back as getting close to fender lip now.....oh well, one more of many things for the list :-) Tks

+1

Get two. I put them in the tube and use the tube for a jack stand support, to get the jack stand out of the way and not worry about compromising the tube.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1506778637.jpg

I don't know for sure but I think you need to drop the engine and trans to put the stainless steel gas lines in the tunnel. I dropped mine when I did my 74 1.8L.

The ratchet jack stands are not a great idea. The ones secured with pins are less likely to let go when you are under the car. One of the guys on 914world had to have his face reconstructed when a ratchet-type stand let go. (Seriously.)

Access is very tight if you try to replace the center tunnel lines with hard lines without dropping the drivetrain. I think it is still possible, but definitely easier without trying to work around the engine and such.

To keep the Ronal wheels, you will probably have to start looking at "vintage" tires. The Vredestein Sprint Classics are available in the original size (165/80-15) and supposedly are tires very like the originals that would have come on the car from the factory. Going wider you will likely either have to modify the fenders or get different wheels, with offsets that are specifically for the 914 instead of for a Bug.

BTW, glad you mentioned what kind of wheels those are. They are beautiful on the car!!

--DD

Thanks for tips on jacking and the fuel lines...will have a closer look before making decisions....|Dave thanks for tire suggestion, am finding only ONE option so far being Continental and actually the spec tire for Smart Cars! Scary that the only option for my Porsche fits a Smart Car....but at least I have one more option now....I REALLY like the rims and they are apparently a bit rare and hard to find but may have to look at moving them on and finding a more suitable replacement to find a decent tire....problem is not a fan of the stock options for the 4 bolt 914's........

Hmm... It may be possible for someone to convert them into three-piece wheels by cutting the wheels up and using the centers for the center of the three-piece.

Obviously not a reversible operation, but it could let you go with a different offset to get more tire.

--DD

I have put SS fuel lines in cars with the motor in, sort of a pain, but doable.

This is sort of a two man operation. There are electrical lines in the tunnel that you do not want to get twisted with your fuel line. I used a coat hanger to hold them out of the way while doing it.

You will probably want to do the shifter adjustment too.

Tks Dave, would be an option to look at........Tks for the tip Tobra on running the lines and will certainly be doing an adjustment....can find 1-2-3 and they feel right but 4-5 just binds and refuse to engage so clearly either bushing or adjustment issue....or likely both :-) Hoping to get it in air and get a better look this weekend

Ok, so another issue and question......looking today at fuel pump lines and a but confused? Pump is located in front of engine compartment by spare tire and has 3 outlets. My understanding is that one is fuel in, one is pressurized fuel out and third is overflow or return......Ok so on mine the one on bottom with fuel filter would be supply and the middle one fuel to motor....so far so good. However on mine the third (top) has a bit of an octopus thing going :-)
The third outlet has a hose that runs to a "t" from which a hose runs to TWO hoses that disappear through trunk wall???? I expected one but two? Havent pulled tank out to try to figure out what the routing is but figured I would ask for thoughts before I got there.... Picture below might help explain....again any ideas appreciated.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1507508885.jpg

Next to the fittings on the pump should be labels; "S", "D", and "R". You may have to turn the pump around to see them. I believe that they are, from top to bottom on your picture, "S" then "D" then "R".

S = suction
D = druck, which is German for pressure
R = return

The plumbing goes as follows:
Supply line from tank, to fuel filter, to "S" on pump.
Pressure line from pump to driver's side fuel rail.
Return line from the pump to a Y-shaped splitter. The Y combines fuel coming back from the fuel pressure regulator with fuel coming out of the R port on the pump, and then sends both of those back to the fuel tank.

--DD

Yes the picture posted is indeed upside down, sorry. Ok so the fuel lines are actually correct then....A couple of diagrams I had seen didn't show the "Y" or the two lines connecting to the rtn so was wondering what was going on.....Lines look a bit rough and got a slight fuel smell when turned ignition on and pump activated...will replace them and likely look at replacing lines back to engine as well....will look for numbers and add to my growing " cart" :-) Tks again Dave

I have 3 Ronal rims et25 and 4 matching Ronal center caps, in very nice, unmolested condition. Pm me if you're interested.

My steering wheel in really bad shape, and would like to update to Momo style wheel....been reading about adapters and confused as see threads saying adapter no longer available for my 1970 4 cyl but appears this "JWST-ECC-BL" part advertised here would work? Can anyone clarify for me? Tls

You might be able to recover the steering wheel

Tks, certainly an option but not a real fan of the look of them at the best of times but may have to.....

Check to see if your pedal bushings or return springs are worn causing the slow brake pedal return.