After long drive car doesn't start

[Gonzo]

I currently have a 1.8 carbed w/34ICTs, fuel pump relocated. After a long hwy drive of about an hour or so the car doesn't want to start. I turn the ignition but nothing I have voltage & lights but no cranking. The only way that I get it to start is by using a screw driver on the starter then it just starts right up. Any ideas? Oh just recently had a valve adjustment & timing done.

[mejulihn]

Unfortunately, what you describe could result from several problems with the starter system. First, heat increases resistance to the flow of electricity. If you have not replaced the primary wires (the big fat ones) from battery to starter and cleaned all terminals and connectors, do so. The cost is less than $20 and parts are available at your FLAPS. If the problem persists, then it could be your solenoid is heating up and "sticking". When it cools down, the contraction allows it to function normally again. Finally, make sure your battery is putting out good amps. A weak battery will have trouble activating the solenoid under certain conditions. Good luck!

[Jim Osborn]

My car had the exact same problem. This is what happens. The way the wiring was designed in the 914 was the worst possible way, the wire that sends power to the starter goes throught the ingnition switch and when the car has been on for a long time the switch heats up and causes a resistance in the system, thus not allowing the proper amount of amps or volts to go through the system. The fix is simple. Order one of the hot start kits from Pelican and you won't have to push start your car anymore! Good luck

[Joe Bob]

Actually, the hot start kit will fix the symptoms but is not the cure. Both the previous posters are correct. The wiring and ground contacts need to be clean and free of corrosion. The starter solenoid has a cooling problem that can be gotten around by adding the hot start kit.

But you STILL have the cooling problem which eventually gets worse, until the solenoid fails all together. The BEST cure, albeit the more expensive one, is to replace the starter with a new/rebuilt Bosch unit.

I have a high heat problem at one the tracks that I autocross at. The hot start kit helped for a while....and then the solenoid said errgggg. Bought a rebuilt Bosch starter and no more problem...

HTH

[Jim Osborn]

I forgot a few steps that I had performed before the hot start relay. New battery, new cables, and clean connections. Those steps also help alot.

[Bobbitt]

I had the same problem for quite some time. I added the hot start kit, new battery, new battery wires (including the ground strap between the transmission and the trunk floor) and that cured it for a while. Then I added headers when the heat exchangers rusted out. The same problem returned. Apparently the starter solenoid core was sticking in the soleniod. It was either expanding or more likely, warping from the heat.

I found a replacement solenoid at my FLAPS. Once I changed it, it worked great for a while (12 - 18 months) and then started sticking again.

I recently added a six to my car, complete with headers, and have not had a problem yet. I am still using my original starter and one of the replacement solenoids.

The key, like mikez says, is get the heat out. Make sure the plastic flaps are in place under the firewall. They do a lot to create turbulance in the air to help cool the lower engine compartment. If the problem is only at the track or the autocross course, you might try some of the Thermotec fiberglass heat wrap (on the starter, not the exhaust). If the problem is on the street though, I would not recomend it. The heat wrap will only help for short durations. After that, it only helps to keep the heat in once the car is turned off.

Good luck.

Bobbitt

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Check Jim Thorusen's starter troubleshooting guide on the Tech Articles section of this page. It will tell you what part of the whole circuit is at fault. It could be just about any of it, unfortunately--the ignition switch, the Infamous Seatbelt Interlock (on 74 and some 75-76), the wiring, the solenoid...

The "hot start kit" really is only a patch. If the rest of the system is in good shape, the extra relay is unnecessary.

BTW, Kyle Ehler wrote (a number of years ago) about adding a diode across the ignition switch to help avoid the "flyback current" across the switch which is one of the things that helps burn it out. This might be mentioned in one of the tech articles. If not, I will try to dig out his original note to me...

--DD