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Okay this is my first post so I am sorry if there are a ton of these topics (I have used the search bar) but couldnt find anything I could use so alas I shall ask.
I am a new owner of a 1985.5 944 Na it is my daily(totaled my 1992 lexus sc300 )and i really love it, i had a 1987 924s for a while but unfortunatly was dumb and got rid of it.. Anywho i sent my 944 to the shop to have the A/C retrofitted and refilled, then the dredded call came and somthing called a torque tube coupler broke?? I just have a couple questions, i found a transmission coupler sleeve at plyhammer for $15 but i just want to make sure a transmission coupler sleeve is the correct part that i need. if not could someone point me in the correct direction??? Also is there anyone that sells new couplers, or upgraded ones? Im thinking about sending my TT to Black Seas for them to rebuild it and bearings but i would like to make sure it would be worth it right now . Thank you in advanced, please be gentle.lol ![]() Last edited by Alexb944; 06-11-2016 at 08:02 AM.. |
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the torque tube coupler broke? That's odd, those things are very sturdy.
Yes, they coupler and the sleeve is the same. I also have some for sale.
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Current: 87 944S Black/Black, 89 944 Turbo S ANDIAL White/Burgundy, 78 924 Black/Black, 17 Cayenne S, 03 Turbo X50 Aero instagram @mhariush http://stores.ebay.com/Techniker-Parts/ |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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WOW! You have a couple of great AC techs that checked the transmission coupler for you.
I have over 150K on my '87 and the torque tube sounds and feels OK. If the fly wheel seal is leaking or you do a major clutch job ----maybe then. J_AZ
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 1,856
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Yeah, what does servicing the AC have anything to do with the transmission & coupler?
The only times the coupler has issues is if the clamp bolts aren't tight and it strips the splines. Other issue is the clamp welds breaking from prying. Simple enough to zap it with welder for a couple seconds to put it back on. |
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I bet the "techs" at the shop were trying to do burnouts with your car. The coupler is about as bullet proof as one can get. Unless is was loose already, I hope the splines on the torque shaft or input shaft are not chewed up... I'd be effin' pissed...
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,692
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They hold up to ls1 transplanted cars.
ac has nothing to do with the rear end, and then you have to physically inspect it. I would be curious as to how, and why....
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dolor et pavor Copyright |
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yeah burnouts was my thought but i dont have any proof, but he said they were driving it and for some reason it just stopped pulling in any gear, then the next day he said he checked the coupler and it was broken? he quoted me a price for the part at $380 with labor at $350.
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$380? Rip off.. Buy a good use one.. $350 to R and R the trans. I can drop the trans in mine in under 30 minutes.. Especially when I'm mad.. LOL Putting it back in takes a little longer but not much....
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i would love to find someone that can do some R&R on my tranny, can work on the engine but the tranny freaks me out.
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The transmission is definitely the easier of the two to remove... If you can turn a wrench on the engine, you can drop the transmission. The only thing special you'll need is the 8mm 12point "allen" type socket to remove the CV joint bolts. Everything else is standard 10,13,17, and 19mm. A long extension to make removing the two crossmember bolts easier is a plus.
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is there anything i can do to it to "strenghten" it i really dont want to strip a gear or break the ring and pinion... i dont launch hard, and i double clutch, im a very cautious driver, but im also a hypochondriac about my cars.
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No need to do anything really. The transmission and drive line will handle way more HP and torque (probably more than twice) than the NA engine will put out. Just make sure the bolts are good and tight on that sleeve. Someone must have left one loose.
I still think there is probably damage to the splines on what ever shaft wasn't tight. There almost has to be. Hopefully it isn't too bad and can be filed or cleaned up. If it were me, I'd almost wish it was the input shaft on the transmission that was damaged. I had to replace the one in mine back about 15 years ago. It's a lot easier to remove and replace than the torque tube in my book. |
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so it would probably be better to buy a newish TT and get it rebuilt?
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You can get a used coupler and be fine. Rebuilding the trans isn't really necessary if the only thing that might be wrong is the splines on the input shaft (should it be the case). Replacing it is fairly straight forward for anyone familiar with manual transmissions. If you have a shop do the work, do NOT tell them it's from a Porsche. They'll charge you double just for the name. Audi and VW used these same transmissions in some of their models. There are no Porsche markings on them. Only VW/Audi or ZF markings. The 87 Audi 5000SQ that I have has the same transmission (different final drive ratio) except has the output/differential lock housing bolted to the back instead of the big round rubber plug that covers the hole.
Last edited by dgcantrell; 06-13-2016 at 08:16 AM.. |
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plays with toy cars
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My torque tube splines stripped at the coupler a few years ago when I was driving on the highway. Same thing, no power in any gear, just a buzzsaw noise. The coupler itself was fine, it was the torque tube that stripped. Best of luck dealing with these guys.
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1983 944 - modded everything http://forums.pelicanparts.com/dto_garage.php?do=viewvehicle&vehicle_id=28317 '86 951 - under construction http://forums.pelicanparts.com/dto_garage.php?do=viewvehicle&vehicle_id=28374 |
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so they can just fix the splines at a transmission shop?
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The splines cannot be fixed if they are ground off or buggered so bad that there's not enough metal to get good connection. If the torque tube shaft is stripped, it'd be just as easy to find a used one. I'm sure some of the guys here parting out cars will have some for sale.
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How the hell...
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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If the aluminum flange on your TT is broken, allowing the transaxle to flex and move FWD/BWD, you might have that happen.
Still, pretty unusual.....
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Tags |
torque tube , transaxel |