![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 122
|
![]()
Having read all about this procedure I do have two questions. I have an 83 944 and the Hayes manual states that you need to replace the oil O-Rings, then reinsert the oil cooler in the housing without using any sims.
I have also read many procedures for this and wanted to know if the 83 requires the "oil cooler to housing spacer washer, part nubmer 944 107 154 00" and do I need to use the .5mm shims to level the oil cooler in the housing? This will be the seond time I'm doing this. The first attemp stopped water from entering the oil, but I'm am now getting some oil in the water. Thanks for you help. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
The stock 83 needs no shims. Do you have the updated or the original relief valve?
__________________
'83 944 "Guards Red" New Everything (seems like) 16" 968 Wheels has never left garage (yet) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 122
|
Original releif valve. Seems to work fine. I'll double check the oil pressure after replacing the oil cooler this weekend. If I have to replace the pressure valve, I can do this with the oil cooler on the car.
Wish I had smaller hands. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Rob,
When you remove the cooler check the viton o-ring and see if there is any rust on it. You will most likely have to use emery cloth and wire bush and a degreaser to muck out the port that that the cooler slides into. As it says in the haynes install the cooler to the block first than the cover. You than can install the relief valve. Rick
__________________
'83 944 "Guards Red" New Everything (seems like) 16" 968 Wheels has never left garage (yet) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 122
|
Rick,
Thanks for the info. I'll follow the procedure you recommend and check the o-ring seats for rust or gunk. |
||
![]() |
|