confirm which microswitch I should use
 

I'm sorting out my sunroof mechanism on my '87 924S, and saw that I have the "late-style" microswitches on my sunroof motor, according to Clark's picture here. When I pull up the part number in Pelican's catalog, it shows the early style. Additionally, I have the early style console up/down switch. So are the switches supposed to be early style instead? Perhaps a PO installed the later style by mistake? Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1556641703.jpg

Not sure if the 924 stayed with the early style switches all the way through.

You need to look at a wiring diagram and figure out the logic of the switch(es). IIRC, the signal comes in on one tab (#1?) and goes out one way or the other depending on whether the switch is activated or not.

I believe the two switches DO the same thing, but the orientation of the connectors is different early vs late.

Sorry - not much help - figuring out the logic of all those sunroof switches can be maddening.

I replaced one on my 1988 924S and it was the late switch

Yeah it's fun trying to follow the wiring diagrams! Theer, you're right about the electrical path. I tested the switch with a multimeter and the electrical current changes tabs when the switch is activated. Too bad there's a small rivet holding the two halves together. It would be nice if it was a small bolt instead, then you'd be able to separate the two and clean, fix it.

16again2009: any leads as to where to get the late style switches?

Are you sure it is a bad switch? It could be a loose adjustment screw that allows the switch to move and not make proper physical contact.

Yeah, mine was acting up and it was just a switch adjustment. Clark’s Garage has very help step-by-step troubleshooting guide.

Checking continuity between the different tabs I get intermittent current...sometimes...depending on where on the tangs the probe touches. So I thought, why not check out the inside...this is where I usually get myself into trouble! I drilled out one head of the small rivet and gently pried open the case, and of course all the little parts fling apart from their proper positions before I could tell how it was all arranged. This included the smallest spring I've ever seen! Cleaned up all the corrosion on the metal pieces, figured out how to reassemble the unit (rather interesting design actually), and now I have a strong, positive continuity among the connectors and the switch works properly. Replaced the remaining rivet piece and added a drop of JB Plastic Weld to secure it.

I have been following Clark's Garage guide, just have to read it over and over before I can understand what I should be doing and why (understanding how the system works). Not sure yet what it means to adjust the switches, but I did notice that when these two microswitches were in place, the upper mount that they were bolted to (part my finger is touching in the pic) moved freely back and forth in that slot. I imagine that that shouldn't be the case and that the one bolt that goes through the lower slot should be tightened to prevent movement. If so, any suggestions as to where along that moveable path the switch should reside? Or is that part of the "adjustment" procedure??http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1556675459.jpg

I bought mine from Rennsport Werkstatt in Tulsa, OK. Phone number is 918-663-2906.

Thanks! When I reinstalled the two switches, the plastic housing on BOTH switches broke! Oh well, worth a shot to fix them. I guess 32-year old plastic is rather brittle!

Try Digikey or Mouser Electronics for replacement microswitches.

The "Late" and "Early" limit switches are probably electrically the same, just different mechanicals.

If you examine the cases of the microswitches, you may find stamped or raised NC, NO, and COM. These represent "Normally Closed" "Normally Open" and "Common."

If you replace the microswitches using the same wiring to the corresponding terminal labels, you should be ok. You will also find that microswitches are somewhat universally the same, both electrically and mechanically (size).

Just a follow-up: installed the new switches and the sunroof works fine now. I found out that locating the tab (the thing I'm touching in the previous photo) at different positions along the slide, stops the movement of the roof at different places along its travel. Got my switches here, another source for others. Thanks all!

https://amzn.to/2WubNIP