|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 306
|
car over heated need advice
I'll try to keep this fairly short. My 84 944 overheated a few days ago.
-Apparently the engine cooling fan stopped working while I was stuck in 5 pm bumper to bumper traffic. By the time I looked at the gauge it was on full hot and the car shut down before I could get it off the highway. Had it towed home - Started to look at things. The radiator was leaking so I've put on a new radiator. I also put in a new thermostat along with the coolant temp switch that turns on the fan. This apparently was the problem to begin with. -New radiator installed full of antifreeze and the car idles smoothly with no knocking or smoking however there is an obvious problem. The temp will increase up close to the halfway mark on the gauge and the fan runs well and the temp doesn't go past the halfway mark on the gauge idling however both upper and lower radiator hoses are very hot and swollen up and very tight full of fluid not flexible at all. The top hose appears to be under so much pressure it is leaking some fluid around the edge where it mates to the radiator. I've taken it off and looked for torn areas but have found none. Both hoses were recently replaced. -Also I took the radiator cap off BEFORE cranking the car to try to bleed some of the air out of the system and it only takes about a minute or so before it is overflowing out of the radiator. It appears that the system is under way too much pressure. -Is it possibly I've warped the head or blown a headgasket. I assume the new thermostat is opening properly and the heater will put out hot air. Could this possibly be a water pump not pumping. What steps should be taken next before I take the car to a shop and pay dearly out of pocket. Any advice appreciated. Thanx L |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: kitchener ON, Canada
Posts: 42
|
looks like blown head gasket to me, but i might be wrong
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 181
|
I'm going to assume you are not aware of the correct bleeding procedure but I could be wrong. Everyone seems to do it a little differently but here's my method.
1. Make sure heat is in the wide open position with fan on max. 2. Open the bleeder screw at the water outlet pipe and fill the resovoir until coolant starts to escape from the bleeder. I find it's easier to pressurize the resovoir when filling as it pushes out some of the air through the bleeder a bit faster. If you don't have the proper tool just blow into the resovoir, I've done it with success. 3. When coolant starts to escape from the bleeder close it off and make sure your resovoir is filled to max. 4. Now with the resovoir cap off run the engine until it reaches operating temp. 5. When operating temp has been reached (T stat open fans cycling) your gonna want to open the bleeder again until bubbles can no longer be seen leaving the system. 6. Your probably gonna have to repeat this process a few times to get all the air out. If your are not able to get the car warm enough for the T stat to open, take it for a drive. Also make sure you have heat. Hope I didn't waste my time but Its good to know you have properly bled the coolant before other conclusions are made. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 1,856
|
Any white smoke out tailpipe?
Do compression test just to be sure. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Sounds like an air bubble preventing coolant flow is a possibility. Bleed system as matt1415 advises and see what happens, I’ve definitely seen what you are describing after a radiator replacement. Air in your cooling system will back things up for sure. Good luck!
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 118
|
your know once your have all the air out of the system when you get warm air through the car heater.
|
||
|
|
|
|