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944 Clutch

Hello all,
I'm in the process of having my clutch changed and transaxle rebuilt, I'm paying $485 labor for r/r clutch and transaxle. Does this sound reasonable? Also, what type of clutch do you recommend, I don't want to put the rubber centered clutch, but there doesn't seem to be much selection out there. I'm replacing Throw out bearing, pressure plate, and the clutch disc itself. Do any of you know if I also need the flywheel pilot pearing? I would hate this to go bad after the car is put together. Any ideas opinions whould be very helpful, thanks in advance.
1.2gees

Old 03-08-2000, 04:40 PM
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485 doesn't sound bad for a clutch job. Look under clutches here on Pel.Parts for the spring center disc. Definitely replace the pilot bearing, And anything else that is even suspected of being bad. Even if the part costs $100, it's still cheaper than the $300 or so to tear it all back apart, and then spend the 100 bucks for the part that failed any way. Also, think about replacing the rear main seal if the car has more than a few miles on it, you're going to be right there anyway. In short, don't skimp. Little parts inside can be expensive, but it's better to pay for labor only once.
Old 03-10-2000, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for the reply, my main seal was replaced by the previous owner(lucky for me a porsche mechanic) my car has every update as far as I know. As for other parts, I can only think of pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch itself, and release bearing as common parts to replace. However a quick search returns about 5 more other parts, such as shifter fork, slave cylinder,....But I think most these can be replaced without having to tear it all the way back.
Old 03-10-2000, 10:29 PM
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There are also release fork bearings (2) release fork Pin, a plastic sleeve that the throw out bearing rides on that can wear out, just little stuff like that. These little parts can be a pain when they fail, 400 bucks to replace a 10 buck part. Oh well, that's why we love these cars huh?
Old 03-12-2000, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for all the replies, does anybody know if the slave cylinder is a regular wear out item, should I get it changed although it's not broken? And lastly, is it possible to change it without going through the regular clutch r/r? Thanks again.
Old 03-16-2000, 04:45 AM
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You can change it without going through the whole ordeal.
Old 03-16-2000, 01:39 PM
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If you have the money go ahead a order a kit for the master and slave cylinders it took 4 weeks for me to get those parts. Total cost was only about $40.00. If you need your car it worth it. If not you can always wait.
Oh it's not hard to put them in your self.
Old 03-16-2000, 02:13 PM
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Thanks for all the replies again. I've already spent waaay too much on this car. I'm a student who is 17 years old, thus understandably trying to keep the costs down, I will not change the slave cylinder before it breaks if I can change it without much work. I decided this upon realizing that I'm going to a spring centered clutch, (centerforce).This increased the overall cost by 200$, and the rear main seals. Every penny I've earned (save for 2000$) has gone into this car, my original plan was to get this and move on to a 968 after I'm familiar enough with Porsches. I found my car wonderful and upgraded it before I realized I would end up spending way too much yet not have the car I would ultimately want. Anyway, I take many trips with the car over 800 miles long. Anything else I need to watch out for that comes to mind?
Old 03-16-2000, 03:03 PM
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Maintainence, maintainance, maintainance! 800 miles ain't much. with the right upkeep, these cars are good for at least 250k miles. just remember you are driving a thoroughbred and not a Ford Escort. So when something goes, it either goes big, or it's expensive if you hire someone to fix it. I hope you already know about the timing and balance shaft belts.
Old 03-16-2000, 04:50 PM
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Yes, I do know about the belts, I have done so much resarch on these cars it's not even funny, but only owned one for about a year and a half, so checking for first hand experiance....By the way let me ask you another question since you seem to be updating the messages often: my car doesn't run good when it's cold, it's shakey, and the idle doesn't go up. Although otherwise it runs fine. Any ideas?
Old 03-16-2000, 06:41 PM
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I didn't check this one before I answered the other post. The shaking could be a motor mount going bad. I replaced mine, and it seems that they were alot worse when the car was cold. As far as me answering your posts- I'm married and have no life!!!! :-)

Old 03-17-2000, 03:05 PM
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