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Quote:
Originally Posted by knabini View Post
I got you poing, regarding timing belt replacement.
One one on the windshield - tabs, that hold exterior trim (at top and sides), are rusted. Could I replace them with plastic "tabs", screws in place of these, rusted ones? still, the side moldings don't budge!!!
see pics with window tabs....
Porsche still sells these clips, but they are "costy"........about $8.00 each.

Old 01-01-2020, 01:09 PM
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Spring44,
I already ordered them, all 16. When I'll get them, the windshield will be installed (by others - still looking for a reasonable installer/price).
Then, I'll tackle a hood - need to get a used one, preferable white....Mine is badly damaged. As well as a metal sub-frame under the windshield.... trying to straighten it out before glass installation...
Old 01-01-2020, 01:41 PM
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Update:
I installed new fuel filter, air filter, new spark plugs, adjusted existing timing/balancer belts and here is a result:
1 - rough idling (when cold) - rpms about 1100-1200, oil pressure - 5
2 - when warm (5+ minutes) - rough idling (car vibrates - gets smoother at 1100-12xx rpms), noise from timing belt area (not determined, but could be toothed idlers???, rpms are at about 1000, oil pressure at 3.5 +- .1.

Possible reasons for #2:
a - higher rpms - vacuum leak
b - rough idling - engine mounts
c - noise - old, dirty bearings of timing/balancer idlers

Possible solutions, I can think off:
for a - trace all vacuum lines, elbows and check them for cracks etc
for b - in doubt what brand to buy - some like OEM, some - Rein (can't find it). Porsches offeres 2-year warranty. BTW - Uro also offers 2 year warranty. I intend to replace both - left and right.
for c - replace timing and balancer belts and idlers (already on hand).

Am I on the right path?
Old 01-18-2020, 09:33 PM
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Question: How are the contacts in the distributor cap as well as the plug wires?
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:16 AM
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As pfarah suggests, investing in a new cap and rotor is something that needs to be done.

Keep in mind the Porsche motor mounts for the 924S/944 are fluid filled. The cheaper ($30 - $40) mounts are solid rubber. It's been noted the Porsche mounts can last 10 to 20 years. I just replaced Porsche mounts after 14 years of use and 80,000 miles and they looked pretty good yet.

At this stage of the game, pulling the intake off and replacing all of the rubber vacuum lines is time (and money) well spent. There could be all sorts of leaks that may not be easily detectable. There are kits out there to help the 'one stop shopping' aspect of buying vacuum lines. Replace the large "J" boot between the air box and throttle body. Oil filler cap o-ring can leak too. Spend $20 and a couple hours rebuilding and cleaning the throttle body with Arnnworx throttle body rebuild kit.

Is the throttle position sensor functioning and can you feel (or hear) the click as you rotate the throttle cam just off the rest (closed) position?

Idle control valve could be a culprit...though when mine failed I was experiencing a low idle and very rough idle until warm up.

Last edited by Jay H; 01-21-2020 at 05:33 AM..
Old 01-19-2020, 05:21 AM
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Knabini, excellent thread, funny how we are on similar paths.

John.
Old 01-19-2020, 07:21 AM
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pfarah,
the wire are new, and distributor/rotor contacts were slightly "corroded" and cleaned before re-installation. I've seen much worst contacts where the distro cap's contacts were aluminum and rotor's were brass - the alum contact were electro-corroded with HUGE deposits on them.

Jay H,
I thought that Uro engine mounts are fluid-filled as supposed to be. Kinda hard to buy a $200+ mount vs. $40+. Vacuum lines kit? Couldn't find it from Pelican, saw something like a kit from Atlanta. This vacuum kit has rubber lines. How about thin plastic lines, do they ever crack? In my experience, vacuum leak (usually) increase warm idles to ver 1000 rpms. Mine stay at about 1000 when cold and warm. Anyway, I will have to inspect the lines and rubber elbows...
Throttle body rebuild kit - sounds great - thanks.
Throttle positioning sensor clicks. I heard it with engine off....

Jjeffries,
yes. I had 914 before and overbought the parts. I don't have 914 anymore, but the extra (unused) parts are still living in my garage. So, I try to buy exactly what I need and according the order of importance.

In general:
Engine, body shaking: I was suggested to check drive shaft bearings should be checked for play and ... and ... since the car wasn't driven for years - some of the problems my "disappear" after I resume driving. Self-healing, if you will.

Thanks again, guys, for you support and will post results after this weekend.
Old 01-19-2020, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knabini View Post
I thought that Uro engine mounts are fluid-filled as supposed to be. Kinda hard to buy a $200+ mount vs. $40+.
I agree, it's really tough to spend $200 for an engine mount at this stage of the game. The flip side is that if you buy the Porsche ones, they will last quite some time. There are enough pics of collapsed mounts on the web, so you may wish to visually compare yours with other pics and see what condition yours are in before spending money on motor mounts.



Quote:
Vacuum lines kit? Couldn't find it from Pelican, saw something like a kit from Atlanta. This vacuum kit has rubber lines. How about thin plastic lines, do they ever crack? In my experience, vacuum leak (usually) increase warm idles to over 1000 rpms. Mine stay at about 1000 when cold and warm. Anyway, I will have to inspect the lines and rubber elbows...
944online has a kit that I used along with sourcing other hoses and lines from here on Pelican. The small thin plastic lines on my car would simply snap off due to being brittle from 30+ years of aging and heat cycles. That line is easily sourced at your local auto parts store if needed along with Pelican and other sources. That small line isn't all that expensive and I replaced every one of those lines too along with the various elbows that connect everything.

I think you are on the right track with getting the car sorted and running. Good luck and keep the questions coming!

Last edited by Jay H; 01-19-2020 at 07:49 PM..
Old 01-19-2020, 07:46 PM
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Another pic...:

Old 01-19-2020, 07:53 PM
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Jay H,
Yes -I saw this picture with 3 engine mounts in some other posts about engine mounts.
Old 01-19-2020, 08:27 PM
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We have a Volvo C30 that had bad engine mounts. It would vibrate at low rpm. The diagnostic test I found online for an auto trans was to load the engine while the car is stationary with the throttle and apply the brake. Thus exaggerated the wobble so much that the engine “lifts” from the car. My son videoed the engine as I was testing it. After replacing the mounts all was good. Otherwise it can be tricky to know if the mounts are bad as the symptoms are vague.
Old 01-20-2020, 08:30 AM
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Hi everyone, URO Engine Mount 951 375 042 04 is indeed liquid-filled, which you can verify by viewing the check-valve ball located in the center of the mount opposite the stud. It looks like the end of a grease zirk, and the propylene glycol vibration-damping liquid is injected through this port during the manufacturing process. Hydraulic mounts are more difficult and costly to manufacture, which is why many aftermarket mounts are solid.

Failure of hydromounts is usually due to the eventual cracking of the rubber due to flex cycles, heat, age, and exposure to ozone. Once a crack breaches the inner wall of the mount, the damping fluid quickly leaks out and the mount must be replaced. Hydromounts have a shorter lifespan than solid mounts, but the reduction in vibration and harshness is worth the additional maintenance for passenger vehicles where comfort is a high priority.

Underhood Service magazine has a good article on the subject: Motor Mount Logic

This mount is covered by URO's two-year warranty, and is available from Pelican here: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/95137504204M253.htm?pn=951-375-042-04-M253&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=3306

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Old 01-20-2020, 10:51 AM
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I would like to thank URO for providing an alternative choice to go to when I am in need of parts. The products have all been of good quality and readily available. I'm not doing a commercial for them, I am thanking them for manufacturing/providing parts for my old Porsche.
Old 01-21-2020, 05:11 AM
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I wonder how Uro engine mount compare to Porsche's, similar to picture with Meyle....
Old 01-21-2020, 05:59 PM
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Update:
just installed new timing/balancer belts and idlers.
While engine was running, I raised left side of an engine - the vibration deceased. Same on right side. The mounts are bad. I visually inspected them - the two bolts touch rubber. I didn't take a picture...
I also noticed that temperature gauge doesn't work.
I discovered two small oil leaks - one, two drops of oil in 10-15 minutes of running engine. one somewhere above oil plug; another somewhere above crank (front).
regarding v-belt for steering pump - the new one did not fit!!!!! was a tad shorter and did't not fit even when the tension tie rod was all the way in (shortest).
Old 01-26-2020, 01:33 PM
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while I decide on engine mount, I wanted to bleed the brakes.
without speed bleeders, I had someone pushing the pedal while I played with bleeder screws..... the pedal was "stiff", did not move at all: the fluid was slowly seeping from open bleeder screws. SLOWLY. SEEPiNG.
That was on both rear brakes. I didn't check fronts, because I still have to deal with rears.
PET catalog doesn't show pressure valve between front and rear brakes, it only shows T-connector (for fronts) and "distributor" (near the rear axle).
While I'm typing this, I thought that I ought to check the fluid flow before callipers - just unscrew the line and see how much fluid comes out with depressed pedal.
Clogged rubber hoses?
Rusted "rear" brake distributor? (BTW from 914's - part # 914 355 667 00),
Rusted metal brake lines?
Rusted rear callipers?
come to think of it, If I'd unscrew metal brake lines at rear callipers, they should leak fluid. If the rubber hoses are fine.
if I'd unscrew rubber hoses from leading metal brake lines, they must leak, too.
What do you, guys, think?
Old 02-01-2020, 12:20 PM
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I have had to replace the flex brake lines on both a 944 and my 928. after rebuilding the calipers the old rubber hoses were restricting the release of pressure. on my 928 also found the master cyl was clogged and restricting release flow on the rear circuit.

I am pretty OCD about brakes.

here is what I found in the calipers off the 84 944. primordial sludge? fortunately they cleaned up nicely.

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Old 02-02-2020, 06:17 AM
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Lewis774,
I can't seem to PM you, tried a few times with no results. I have a piece of tank foam for you but need your contact info.
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Old 02-02-2020, 11:49 AM
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update.
Brakes callipers are rebuilt. tie end rods replaced.
Now I'm working on the engine mounts. Right Engine mount is about 66mm, new (uro) is about 75mm.
Question: is there an exhaust heat shield for the right (passenger) engine mount?
Old 03-14-2020, 04:49 PM
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I'll be using the URO motor mounts in my car. John

Old 03-15-2020, 05:26 AM
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